Aleph J illustrated build guide

Jump to Latest
#10,103
As a bit of a sidebar - I used Kester solder (link). It says it us non-corrosive flux, but I see a lot of people still say to clean it off. Am I better off just leaving it, or should I get some 99% isopropyl alcohol and scrub it away? My main concern with using it is what impact it would have on the components if they get wet (caps, variable resistors, etc.). You can talking me in or out of cleaning, but would love your wisdom. Thanks!

I have both PCBs built and ready to mount on the heatsink, but want to figure out the cleaning first.

https://www.amazon.com/KESTER-SOLDER-32117-24-6040-0027-Diameter/dp/B00068IJPO
 
#10,104
Good Morning, Kevin - Fuse size is based on the configuration. Things to consider may include but are not necessarily limited to dual mono or single PSU; mains AC voltage; and the VA of the donut(s). Yes, you want each donut to have its own fuse.

canonken - I clean all my boards. Personal preference. I like clean boards, and it helps me to inspect the solder joints. 99% IPA will not hurt your components.
 
  • Like
Reactions: canonken
#10,107
Hello,

I'm in the planning/gathering stages of an Aleph J build. I'll be using the diyaudio universal power supply board, and I plan to run dual transformers/pwr supplies. Would 200VA rated transformers for each side be acceptable? i.e. Antek AS-2220 or Antek AS-2218.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve
 
#10,109
I’m also interested in dual mono and ask myself just that question, 2x200VA should work. I could not help myself in salvage a case, trafio and psu from old projects just to see how it sound. I have not yet biased it up but it behaves ok. My dual mono thought made the trafo slide to the side 🙂 My first time with the universal psu. Time to bias within a day or two.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6153.jpeg
    IMG_6153.jpeg
    986 KB · Views: 108
  • Like
Reactions: andynor and Dennis Hui
#10,118
Also, the discontinued Panasonic ERX-3SJR47 (R16-R23 and R1-R8 in the PSU) don’t appear to be available anywhere I can access them in Australia (at least, without needing to sell some body parts I might yet need).

I've found some matching Vishays (HERE) that are (to me) expensive and some Yageo (HERE) and TE Connectivity (HERE) which are much cheaper. I'm not really familiar with either of those latter brands (although that doesn't mean much, I'm hardly a veteran of this stuff) so I just wanted to check if either of them is a worthy alternative to the Panasonic, if either would be better than the other and, if it is, in fact, a "critical" component that is likely to make an audible difference and I should just stump for the Vishays.

Appreciate any and all advice. Thanks 👍
 
#10,119
Ok, one last, bonus question (at least until I start to throw the iron around)

I have a neurodivergent urge to add one or maybe two analogue meters to my front panel, for "aesthetic" purposes. I'm not interested in dancing needles and I'm wary of adding anything deleterious to the audio path so I'm thinking perhaps something to do with the power supply?

I know there's nothing necessary to be displayed on a meter or meters but is there anything a bit handy or even vaguely reassuring it could tell me? Like something about the status of the voltage or current in a given moment? I'm inspired (or maybe just distracted) by the front panels of early (50s? 40s?) WE and Altec gear, for example.

A search through the thread revealed an implementation of a pair on a dual-mono build showing IQ or quiescent current, which I don't really understand but that's never stopped me ¯\(ツ)/¯. Would that have used two because two PSUs or just one per channel?

very open to ideas. Much obliged 🙂
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom