magnet ok on heatsink?
OK….a silly newbie question: Will 2 small magnets (type used for speaker grills) be ok on each heat sink?
I've collected the mesquite from AZ that will be used for the faceplate and top of my soon-to-be-built 4U-Aleph J. Faceplate will be screwed on from inside, and to keep the outside of the wood pure with no showing screws, I'm considering different alternatives (attaching magnets to bottom of top) to attach top to heatsinks or metal rails.
Plenty of ventilation will be provided by offsets and slats in the top. Thanks.
OK….a silly newbie question: Will 2 small magnets (type used for speaker grills) be ok on each heat sink?
I've collected the mesquite from AZ that will be used for the faceplate and top of my soon-to-be-built 4U-Aleph J. Faceplate will be screwed on from inside, and to keep the outside of the wood pure with no showing screws, I'm considering different alternatives (attaching magnets to bottom of top) to attach top to heatsinks or metal rails.
Plenty of ventilation will be provided by offsets and slats in the top. Thanks.
Magnets won't stick to your (aluminum) heatsinks. You could use the steel rails. I seriously doubt that they would interfere with any function of the amp but not 100% sure about that. Personally, I'd try to keep any unnecessary magnetic fields away from it, but I'm usually the overly cautious type.
Mesquite sounds nice, please post pics when done.
Marra's stainless is good. I like brass screws and nuts even better. Just superstition behind this, but brass is closer to copper and no way magnetic. I think of stainless as regular steel that is to busy with extra ingredients to be magnetic. However, at its core, its still steel.
Looking at EM shielding materials, stainless has less shielding than copper, brass, and nickel. The way that shielding works, this result suggests to me that brass screws may react less to EM fields than stainless.
-Or a cross bar clamp (already patented in 1963)
-Or Belleville washers
-Or even prettier, locking washers, aka square dome/cone
Just checking my math skills 
Joke aside, as this is my first build except for a straight forward class d, I'd better check that I have my numbers and wiring correct, especially in light of the muffeled sound I experienced.
After have quadrupel-checked everyting I proceeded to re-arrange my setup, and lo and behold, the sound coming from the speakers was just beautiful.
I still have changes to do in my setup, I think it's mainly an issue related to gainstructure, but I could not get myself to stop playing music
Will continue my questions when the music runs out..
Stefan
Joke aside, as this is my first build except for a straight forward class d, I'd better check that I have my numbers and wiring correct, especially in light of the muffeled sound I experienced.
After have quadrupel-checked everyting I proceeded to re-arrange my setup, and lo and behold, the sound coming from the speakers was just beautiful.
I still have changes to do in my setup, I think it's mainly an issue related to gainstructure, but I could not get myself to stop playing music
Will continue my questions when the music runs out..
Stefan
Hi,
Shorting input gnd to signal- gave me more gain, but I'm not so sure if it improved the sound quality. It for sure gave me hum, quite noticable a couple of meters away from the speaker, which I did not have before.
Is this to be expected?
What is the advantages and disadvantages of choosing either of these options?
Stefan
Shorting input gnd to signal- gave me more gain, but I'm not so sure if it improved the sound quality. It for sure gave me hum, quite noticable a couple of meters away from the speaker, which I did not have before.
Is this to be expected?
What is the advantages and disadvantages of choosing either of these options?
Stefan
