Aleph J illustrated build guide

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#7,203
I am about to order the PCB and Aleph J mosfet and Jfet kit from DIY audio store. I have skimmed through this thread and did not find any changes to original BOM.
Can those in the know please confirm or deny my observation?

I will be ordering rest of the parts from Mouser and any mistake will mean a delay of at least one week so I want to get it right the first time with your help.
Many thanks in advance.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that I have noted post # 4 on page 1 by 6L6
 
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#7,205
#7,208
RainfallSky said:
Okay.. I odered Wera tool code 05074700001
This one: Series 7400 Kraftform adjustable torque screwdrivers (0.1-3.0 Nm) with Rapidaptor quick-release chuck - Wera Product finder

My local Wera distributor promote discounts till the end of september on the list of tools this one included.
It's about 39% discount.
Also I have acquaintance that helped me to order it for shop incoming price.
If I convert rubles to $, this tool cost me about $65.
Still not cheap but the cheapest tool with a brand name on it that I could find.
I make excuse to myself that this would be a nice tool to have.. for life. 🙂
Click to expand...

Agreed. for tools, unless its a one time use thing, cry only once and buy the best.

Russellc
 
#7,209
I have only drilled two sets of heatsinks, other builds used "deluxe" box so wasnt necessary. I want one of those small drill presses, but don't have one. I was able to successfully use a hand drill and eye balling it. I need a drill press, but keep using the pre drilled store boxes.....

Russellc
 
#7,211
Wouldn't try that on a nice case, but on flat piece of aluminum oh yes. The only time I have done it was where face plate was too thick for bushing of extended shaft to go through. I shortened the distance by doing so with much larger hole from the backside.

Russellc
 
#7,212
BTW, on bushings and 10mm face plates: I obtained my own extension kits from PartsConnexion. IIRC they say will work with 8mm thick...on the several I have used, the bushings were long enough to go through the 10 mm with enough to spare the nut can be threaded on the other side. Sorry about the OT!

Of course the countersunk holes not only decrease that distance, it gives a nice visual effect as well!

Russellc
 
#7,214
Russellc said:
I have only drilled two sets of heatsinks, other builds used "deluxe" box so wasnt necessary. I want one of those small drill presses, but don't have one. I was able to successfully use a hand drill and eye balling it. I need a drill press, but keep using the pre drilled store boxes.....

Russellc
Click to expand...

I use pre-drilled too. But from time to time I have had the need to drill a hole or two. Also, I want to try a 6 deep BA-3, and hence need to drill a few holes. Not for fets, but for a PCB. So I am hoping to get away with a big gator for the holes, and hand tapping afterwards.

Did you really freestyle completely, or use some sort of device to ensure straight holes? If you freestyled, or in any case come to think of it, kudos!
 
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#7,215
Zen Mod said:
best thing you can do is to invest in cheap bench drill

they're everywhere , China production, so called 250W motor , 5 or 6 speeds ( belt) , up to 13mm chuck, 50mm drill depth

they're for eons hovering around 100E

you can do wonders with that
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Thank you, and you Myleftear, and RusselC!

ZM: I will check it out. When I look at drill presses, maybe it’s only my personal stupidity, but they don’t look like they are able to drill far into a heat sink. Am I missing something?

Myleftear: I think I can imagine such a template. I guess the Big Gator will be a poor substitute, but maybe I’ll be surprised…

Russel: thanks! Answered in last post. Pre drilled is very, very nice. I guess having the ability and capacity to drill on myself is just one those tick offs I wanna, well, tick off. Managed to set ut a test/matching jig for MOSFETs too now. And even though it’s not yet to Serbian standards, it actually measures stable Ugs. So it’s a start 🙂 said in other words: function is there.

Hope you are all well. Wish you a happy weekend

Regards,
Andreas
 
#7,216
I have and use a Big Gator drill guide to help me drill and tap holes square to the heat sink. I hand hold the Big Gator by pressing it down against the heat sink as I drill. It is a bit tedious but I chose the Big Gator because I don't want to have to store another tool such as a drill press. I don't have the space.

I have drilled quite a few heat sinks and tapped quite a few holes using the Big Gator as a guide. However it is not for everyone as it is tedious work. A drill press would definitely be easier to use. But I don't want to have to store one when it is not in use, not even a small one.
 
#7,217
Thank you, Ben! That is really good to know. Just a few bits and pieces left before I can start trying some drilling on a broken sink, for starters that is.

Wrt templates, I have seen ZM use printed templates on see-through paper. I guess that, and laying the PCB on the sink and alinging - then hitting a small hole dead center, are two possible ways to get the holes in the right place. Any thoughts about / experience with an easy and proper way of achieving that?
 
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#7,218
I put down masking tape and measure and mark the hole locations. After double and triple checking, I then centre punch all of the hole locations. I centre punch them deep enough so that the drill bit doesn't wander. The most important part is to accurately locate the holes and centre punch accurately.

I have tried vellum/tracing paper template but for me tape worked best.
 
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