I keep telling myself that the risk of magic smoke is a sloppiness deterrent. But I know I am wrong 
To test only the amp modules I solved it quite cheap. I got two SK80H, each is fed by a 20v/90w laptop brick. These are buck boost converters and will be able to give lower or higher voltages than the voltage of the ps feeding them.
To mention that the SK80H is good til 50-60w and the fans inside are quite noisy but for the price I paid it’s fine with me.
To mention that the SK80H is good til 50-60w and the fans inside are quite noisy but for the price I paid it’s fine with me.
OMG! I cannot wrap my head around a pretty basic DBT using 1 single gang switch/outlet to a single gang double outlet. I have sketched what I think to be correct up to the final Neutral connection. I must admit this is rather frustrating as it is a seemingly simple concept, any help is most appreciated.
So, the switch only gets a line in- line out (hot) no neutral. Before going any further, how exactly would you like the outlets to operate? Are you plugging a bulb into the single outlet on the switch side and switching the duplex side as a normal switched outlet?
I was planning on using the the single outlet/switch side for the bulb, which is what is adding to my confusion. Unfortunately the DBT isn't the only dim bulb in this circuit 🙁
No worries at all bud. The switch/outlet side gets a line in , sw leg out. The switch leg is most likely in the form of a shorting bar between the upper/lower terminals on the opposite side from the line in. You'll pull your hot for the duplex outlet from the screw terminal at the top of that shorting bar and bring it to either terminal on the smaller blade side of d2 if you want the duplex switched. Take your hit for d2 feom the line in term at the switch if you'd like d2 always hot.Neutral will enter d2 lower terminal N (larger blade)> shorting bar to top terminal and jumper over the the switch outlet N terminal. Clear as mud? No coffee yet here.
Lol, whoa up. Making coffee now. Confused myself with the plug in bulb. Jeeze
Hot in to d1 sw> out opposite side> shorting bar to outlet> out opposite terminal and > hot terminal on d2 (small blade) upper or lower. They'll be connected with a shorting bar. Neutral to d2 N term(larger blade) which will also have a shorting bar. Done. Sorry for the confusion 😕
Hot in to d1 sw> out opposite side> shorting bar to outlet> out opposite terminal and > hot terminal on d2 (small blade) upper or lower. They'll be connected with a shorting bar. Neutral to d2 N term(larger blade) which will also have a shorting bar. Done. Sorry for the confusion 😕
Thanks for helping, I can't help but 😂 cause I can so relate, just finished my second dbl Latte. I'm going to read what you posted a couple of times then post a description of what I come up with.
@Toys4Boys my list of things not to do before 2 cups of coffee keeps growing. It started out with stock/crypto trades, now it includes almost everything else. I'm sure LNI has sent out an emergency squad to yank my ticket.
I followed this one - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/dim-bulb-tester-build-one-in-five-minute.386791/ and could easily build using that box with just changing the wiring inside as per the instructions. Works perfectly without much cost and just few changes in the wiring.
Plainly this time, Your sw leg simply passes through the attached outlet and the hot lays down on the duplex like any other outlet install. N is a single connection to the duplex. DO keep your grounds separate to each device, NOT daisy chained. 🙂
