fcel,
you are best to just go to home depot and see what aluminum stock that they have. Their selection tends to be limited, and I would recommend using mcmaster.com since they have anything you could possibly need, and their shipping is reasonable.
--
Brian
you are best to just go to home depot and see what aluminum stock that they have. Their selection tends to be limited, and I would recommend using mcmaster.com since they have anything you could possibly need, and their shipping is reasonable.
--
Brian
I have a question. What kind of screws are best to use with aluminum?
choices:
316 stainless steel
18-8 stainless steel
zinc-plated steel
titanium
brass
2024t4 aluminum
teflon
silicon bronze
Is there any preference of which is better with aluminum, or does it not really matter. I was planning on just getting the milspec 18-8 stainless. They are pretty cheap.
McMaster.com has a great collection of screws.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
choices:
316 stainless steel
18-8 stainless steel
zinc-plated steel
titanium
brass
2024t4 aluminum
teflon
silicon bronze
Is there any preference of which is better with aluminum, or does it not really matter. I was planning on just getting the milspec 18-8 stainless. They are pretty cheap.
McMaster.com has a great collection of screws.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
DIY heatsink/chassis
Hi,
If you own a chopsaw, they're not that expensive, and a fine tooth carbide tooth blade designed to cut non-ferrous metal, such as aluminum, brass, copper, etc, you've got the battle well in hand. I clamp a piece of wood to the table top of the chop saw and use it as a "stop". The aluminum stock butts up against the stop, allowing perfect matching cuts every time. I cut up the necessary aluminum stock for the chassis I've drawn in less than an 20 minutes.
Aluminum cuts a lot like oak. Wear eye protection! Hold the stock firmly, you have to be careful, of course, not to let it "get away from you". But, this simple fact also goes with any hardwood you may be cuttin on a saw. Use cutting fluid to allow the saw blade a longer life. If the bar stock you're cutting is long, then support it further away from the chop saw's table top.
I didn't use grease between the pieces. The threaded rods were more than capable of clamping the pieces firmly together. The threaded rod is available at Home Depot or any other quality outlet. When boring the holes for the rod, I clean off the buldge that the drill creates on the surface of the aluminum stock. The idea is to keep the bar stock as flat as possible.
I use 1/8" aluminum sheeting for the top and bottom of the chassis. It keeps the unit sturdy. Be sure to drill plenty of holes in the top and bottom plates to allow the amplifier proper venting.
The completed chassis weighs around 35-40 pounds.
I have constructed the chassis that's drawn on my website. It houses an NP Zen amp on the right hand bank. The left bank is waiting for another project. It is constructed with 1/4" spacers and 1/4"fins instead of the 1/16" fins you see in the drawings. It's not nearly as efficient at the chassis that's drawn on the website and though plenty warm, it isn't too uncomfortable to touch.
I now have the 1/16" stock to manufacture 6 chassis. I located it in a metal "scrap yard" and it cost a fraction of what one would pay for new stock.
I'm seriously considering manufacturing these chassis for the DIY community.
Hi,
If you own a chopsaw, they're not that expensive, and a fine tooth carbide tooth blade designed to cut non-ferrous metal, such as aluminum, brass, copper, etc, you've got the battle well in hand. I clamp a piece of wood to the table top of the chop saw and use it as a "stop". The aluminum stock butts up against the stop, allowing perfect matching cuts every time. I cut up the necessary aluminum stock for the chassis I've drawn in less than an 20 minutes.
Aluminum cuts a lot like oak. Wear eye protection! Hold the stock firmly, you have to be careful, of course, not to let it "get away from you". But, this simple fact also goes with any hardwood you may be cuttin on a saw. Use cutting fluid to allow the saw blade a longer life. If the bar stock you're cutting is long, then support it further away from the chop saw's table top.
I didn't use grease between the pieces. The threaded rods were more than capable of clamping the pieces firmly together. The threaded rod is available at Home Depot or any other quality outlet. When boring the holes for the rod, I clean off the buldge that the drill creates on the surface of the aluminum stock. The idea is to keep the bar stock as flat as possible.
I use 1/8" aluminum sheeting for the top and bottom of the chassis. It keeps the unit sturdy. Be sure to drill plenty of holes in the top and bottom plates to allow the amplifier proper venting.
The completed chassis weighs around 35-40 pounds.
I have constructed the chassis that's drawn on my website. It houses an NP Zen amp on the right hand bank. The left bank is waiting for another project. It is constructed with 1/4" spacers and 1/4"fins instead of the 1/16" fins you see in the drawings. It's not nearly as efficient at the chassis that's drawn on the website and though plenty warm, it isn't too uncomfortable to touch.
I now have the 1/16" stock to manufacture 6 chassis. I located it in a metal "scrap yard" and it cost a fraction of what one would pay for new stock.
I'm seriously considering manufacturing these chassis for the DIY community.
Aluminium Sheet Metal
I was just looking at the McMaster-Carr web site ........ why is sheet metal so expensive? For example, I was looking at 12"x24"x0.19" T6 Alloy 6061 Aluminium and it sells for $36.60 per piece and for 12"x12"x0.19", it's $23.51 per piece. So for a pair of monoblock, that comes up to about $240 and this does not include cutting fees to custom size yet!!
By the way, does McMaster-Carr offer cutting sheet metal to custom size for a fee? I haven't gone to that part of the web site yet.
I was just looking at the McMaster-Carr web site ........ why is sheet metal so expensive? For example, I was looking at 12"x24"x0.19" T6 Alloy 6061 Aluminium and it sells for $36.60 per piece and for 12"x12"x0.19", it's $23.51 per piece. So for a pair of monoblock, that comes up to about $240 and this does not include cutting fees to custom size yet!!
By the way, does McMaster-Carr offer cutting sheet metal to custom size for a fee? I haven't gone to that part of the web site yet.
ouch!
fcel,
They would have to drag me kicking and screaming and I still wouldn't pay those outragous prices!!!!
Go to a scrap yard that specializes in metal. Used aluminum is sold by the pound. My yard charges $1.50 a pound for any shape. New aluminum is just a tad under $3.00 a pound. A 12x12 sheet of used stock should cost well under $5.00! They have a small stomp shear at the yard I frequent and I can cut up any shape I wish.
fcel,
They would have to drag me kicking and screaming and I still wouldn't pay those outragous prices!!!!
Go to a scrap yard that specializes in metal. Used aluminum is sold by the pound. My yard charges $1.50 a pound for any shape. New aluminum is just a tad under $3.00 a pound. A 12x12 sheet of used stock should cost well under $5.00! They have a small stomp shear at the yard I frequent and I can cut up any shape I wish.
ouch 2
fcel,
I went to McMaster's web site. Damn, what a rip off! At Clackams Steel, I purchase a 12 foot long piece of 1/2"x1-1/2" aluminum bar stock for $30.00. McMaster wants over $96.00 for the same stock!
Shop around............
fcel,
I went to McMaster's web site. Damn, what a rip off! At Clackams Steel, I purchase a 12 foot long piece of 1/2"x1-1/2" aluminum bar stock for $30.00. McMaster wants over $96.00 for the same stock!
Shop around............
fcel,
Living in LA county, there would have to be a wealth of resources for raw materials around you. I know, having been a machinist in a past life, that most machinst or machine shops know where to buy materials, aluminum, brass, sheets, or angles. If you were to ask at a couple machine shops they will most likely be able to steer you toward two or three surplus metal suppliers in your area that will sell and possibly cut small quantities.
We have a place in Detroit called Factory Steel where they will sell anything they have in the building. I can walk in and pick what I want, anything from a 50,000 lb roll of steel to a $3 scrap piece of aluminum off the floor that was left over from the last guy.
Just a suggestion.
Rodd Yamashita
Living in LA county, there would have to be a wealth of resources for raw materials around you. I know, having been a machinist in a past life, that most machinst or machine shops know where to buy materials, aluminum, brass, sheets, or angles. If you were to ask at a couple machine shops they will most likely be able to steer you toward two or three surplus metal suppliers in your area that will sell and possibly cut small quantities.
We have a place in Detroit called Factory Steel where they will sell anything they have in the building. I can walk in and pick what I want, anything from a 50,000 lb roll of steel to a $3 scrap piece of aluminum off the floor that was left over from the last guy.
Just a suggestion.
Rodd Yamashita
I have one set of mosfets left required for an aleph 2 or 4 (4 sets of 6) for $100. I also have one sets of mosfets required for an aleph 5 (4 sets of 3) left also for $50.
e-mail me if you are interested.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
e-mail me if you are interested.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
fcel
There are lots of local places that cater to industry, that have stuff in stock, and can often dipense advice at the same time.
They are used to hobbyiests and people making prototypes, so aren't bothered usually by small orders.
Look up "fasteners", etc. in the phone book for bolts, metal, etc
Metal suppliers are still sometimes more that you'd think, but way cheaper than mail order. If you find metal recyclers you can find things like HEATSINKs at surplus prices!
The drill press will pay foritself in broken drill bits, and make vertical holes. Buy one or find one to use!
For tapping threads, chuck the tap in the drill press to get a straight start. DON"T TURN ON THE MOTOR !!! turn the chuck by hand!! Again- it will save a fortune in broken taps! Get the right type of lube for tapping and drilling aluminum
Gotta go
Mark
There are lots of local places that cater to industry, that have stuff in stock, and can often dipense advice at the same time.
They are used to hobbyiests and people making prototypes, so aren't bothered usually by small orders.
Look up "fasteners", etc. in the phone book for bolts, metal, etc
Metal suppliers are still sometimes more that you'd think, but way cheaper than mail order. If you find metal recyclers you can find things like HEATSINKs at surplus prices!
The drill press will pay foritself in broken drill bits, and make vertical holes. Buy one or find one to use!
For tapping threads, chuck the tap in the drill press to get a straight start. DON"T TURN ON THE MOTOR !!! turn the chuck by hand!! Again- it will save a fortune in broken taps! Get the right type of lube for tapping and drilling aluminum
Gotta go
Mark
Thank you Variac, very good tip indeed. I broke (and cursed, sorry) quite a few in the last three years.
Regards
Hi guys,
Thanks for all your inputs on the enclosure making. I'll drive around, look up in the yellow pages, visit some machine or metal shops, surf the internet some more ...... to find those metal sheets as cheap as possible ......... Please post if you guys have more ideas or suggestions - both in terms of purchasing and building.
I just got myself a 9" drill press, some drills and taps from Sears this morning!
Thanks for all your inputs on the enclosure making. I'll drive around, look up in the yellow pages, visit some machine or metal shops, surf the internet some more ...... to find those metal sheets as cheap as possible ......... Please post if you guys have more ideas or suggestions - both in terms of purchasing and building.
I just got myself a 9" drill press, some drills and taps from Sears this morning!
The last set of mosfets for the Aleph 2 has been claimed.
EDIT: I still have one set of mosfets for an Aleph 5 available (4 sets of 3 matched) for $50 if anyone here is interested.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
EDIT: I still have one set of mosfets for an Aleph 5 available (4 sets of 3 matched) for $50 if anyone here is interested.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
fcel,
I would advise that you contact Northrup at the Hawthorne plant... I don't know if they have a surplus sales store, but when I used to work there we generated an awful lot of scrap aluminum...
I now live in the Seattle area and we have Boeing surplus at this end...basically an unlimited supply of surplus aluminum and steel goods left over from plane building...
Anyway, don't know if Northrup has such a place but it would certainly be worth checking out... If they don't have an outlet, find out who they sell their scrap metal to... They will have lots of material perfect for chassis work...
Also, if it's not too far away from you, there is Boeing (Mcdonnell Douglass) in Long Beach... They should have a surplus outlet as well...
Lastly, there is also General Dynamics in Kearney Mesa (San Diego)... Don't know what they will have (haven't worked there in a long time), but you might check... They used to build fighters and missiles at that facility...
I also agree about the metal recyclers... You're lucky enough to be located in a huge industrial district and I'm certain there is lots available... Just let your fingers do the walkin...
Just a few ideas...
Good Luck,
Steve
I would advise that you contact Northrup at the Hawthorne plant... I don't know if they have a surplus sales store, but when I used to work there we generated an awful lot of scrap aluminum...
I now live in the Seattle area and we have Boeing surplus at this end...basically an unlimited supply of surplus aluminum and steel goods left over from plane building...
Anyway, don't know if Northrup has such a place but it would certainly be worth checking out... If they don't have an outlet, find out who they sell their scrap metal to... They will have lots of material perfect for chassis work...
Also, if it's not too far away from you, there is Boeing (Mcdonnell Douglass) in Long Beach... They should have a surplus outlet as well...
Lastly, there is also General Dynamics in Kearney Mesa (San Diego)... Don't know what they will have (haven't worked there in a long time), but you might check... They used to build fighters and missiles at that facility...
I also agree about the metal recyclers... You're lucky enough to be located in a huge industrial district and I'm certain there is lots available... Just let your fingers do the walkin...
Just a few ideas...
Good Luck,
Steve
Hi Brian,
The same goes for the Atlanta area. If the school's machine shop has a Journeyman machinist, I'm sure he'll have a few places he goes for project materials. Many times when you ask the big suppliers for small quantities, they will point you toward the good surplus suppliers as well.
Good Luck,
Rodd Yamashita
The same goes for the Atlanta area. If the school's machine shop has a Journeyman machinist, I'm sure he'll have a few places he goes for project materials. Many times when you ask the big suppliers for small quantities, they will point you toward the good surplus suppliers as well.
Good Luck,
Rodd Yamashita
The school has a good machine shop and I have had friends have stuff made for them there, but I can't really justify this as a class project. I will go down there next week and talk to them for suggestions.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
boeing surplus
Steve, thanks for the tip on the boeing surplus aluminum. I'm in Portland, so I can get up there pretty easily. Can you give a little more details on where to get the goods, and how it works?
thanks,
Evan
Steve, thanks for the tip on the boeing surplus aluminum. I'm in Portland, so I can get up there pretty easily. Can you give a little more details on where to get the goods, and how it works?
thanks,
Evan
Order almost full
I have changed my webpage to indicate that the order is full:
alephpcb webpage
I do have two sets left, so if you want to get in on the order, it is still $50 for a set of boards.
Drop me an e-mail at:
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
I have changed my webpage to indicate that the order is full:
alephpcb webpage
I do have two sets left, so if you want to get in on the order, it is still $50 for a set of boards.
Drop me an e-mail at:
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
I found a place in Atlanta that has metal by the pound. I bought my metal panels today. It cost me $13.50 for a 1/8" thick piece that is 9"x18.25" 6061 aluminum and $7 for a piece that is 9"x8.0725". I needed 4 of each for top, bottom and sides, so my cost came out to $78 for all the metal for my two cases.
If anyone is in the Atlanta area and needs aluminum sheet metal, call:
Metal Supermarket
678-420-0054
They are in Doraville.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
If anyone is in the Atlanta area and needs aluminum sheet metal, call:
Metal Supermarket
678-420-0054
They are in Doraville.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
Victoria Magnetics
I just got a call from John Snowden at VM. My custom transformers are already finished and being shipped today. I ordered them on last Thursday. Wow, great service!
I just got a call from John Snowden at VM. My custom transformers are already finished and being shipped today. I ordered them on last Thursday. Wow, great service!
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