Continuous power should be:
400W per channel
800W / 115V = 7A Continuous
The turn on spike will be very large and will trip your breaker unless you use some in-rush current limiting. Still, I would turn one on, wait, and then the second.
Best option would be to run a 20A new circuit to your listening room. There is no guarantee that many other sockets, lights, etc... are on the same circuit. This amp deserves a separate dedicated line!!!
By the way, I wired up one channels power supply today. With my PI filter in place, the ripple is very low. Also, with the in-rush current limiter, I get no "light dimming". However, with two online, I think that I need the 20A circuit..
I have 18mF - 10mH - 60mF. I am also using a separate bridge for the + and - supplies with a dual winding transformer. Star ground point for all connections. I plan on designing hum out.
400W per channel
800W / 115V = 7A Continuous
The turn on spike will be very large and will trip your breaker unless you use some in-rush current limiting. Still, I would turn one on, wait, and then the second.
Best option would be to run a 20A new circuit to your listening room. There is no guarantee that many other sockets, lights, etc... are on the same circuit. This amp deserves a separate dedicated line!!!
By the way, I wired up one channels power supply today. With my PI filter in place, the ripple is very low. Also, with the in-rush current limiter, I get no "light dimming". However, with two online, I think that I need the 20A circuit..
I have 18mF - 10mH - 60mF. I am also using a separate bridge for the + and - supplies with a dual winding transformer. Star ground point for all connections. I plan on designing hum out.
You should be fine with 2 transformers as long as you stagger start them...... it'd mean that total start up time for the amp would be around 1minute but i guess that really isnt too bad... i know of at least one commercial amp that functions in a similar fashion.
No problem at all. I have 4 amps with 750W transformer ea., no chokes. The only protection for in rush current are thermistors. I used to switch them all at the same time using remote trigger from my preamp. It took about 3 seconds for all of them to settle down. Everything was fine.🙂
Aleph 2 ... Thermal Fuse T1 ... Case Feet
Dale,
I was gathering some information to order some electrical parts and I was looking at your parts spreadsheet too. Your spreadsheet indicated a part # of 557-0010 from Allied Electric and it says 175 degree F normally close. I'm not sure if that 175 degree F is an error or not but I found a part # from DigiKey with a 75 degree F normally close. The part # is 317-1001-ND. I think this should work for this application.
Anybody,
1. While we are on the subject of parts, where do you guys order the "feet" for the case. I've checked out some web site. They have either no stock or one have to order the whole bag! Can somebody provide some part # please, preferably from DigiKey or Mouser. Thanks.
2. Also, where to order handles for the amp? Thanks again.
Dale,
I was gathering some information to order some electrical parts and I was looking at your parts spreadsheet too. Your spreadsheet indicated a part # of 557-0010 from Allied Electric and it says 175 degree F normally close. I'm not sure if that 175 degree F is an error or not but I found a part # from DigiKey with a 75 degree F normally close. The part # is 317-1001-ND. I think this should work for this application.
Anybody,
1. While we are on the subject of parts, where do you guys order the "feet" for the case. I've checked out some web site. They have either no stock or one have to order the whole bag! Can somebody provide some part # please, preferably from DigiKey or Mouser. Thanks.
2. Also, where to order handles for the amp? Thanks again.
Hi,
This is a thermal switch. It is normally closed, but opens when the temperature exceeds the given temperature. When it cools below the second value, the switch re-closes.
At 75F, you would never be able to hear your amp😡
I stand by the value chosen. You probably don't need the switch at all...
Best Regards,
Dale
No feet info...
This is a thermal switch. It is normally closed, but opens when the temperature exceeds the given temperature. When it cools below the second value, the switch re-closes.
At 75F, you would never be able to hear your amp😡
I stand by the value chosen. You probably don't need the switch at all...
Best Regards,
Dale
No feet info...
Oops ...
Dale,
I meant degree C. My intent was to show a part # from DigiKey since all the other parts from your spreadsheet are either from DigiKey or Mouser. No point to order one part from another vendor and have to paid their minimum shipping charge! Thinking that 175 degree F is an error is my error!! Oops again.
Dale,
I meant degree C. My intent was to show a part # from DigiKey since all the other parts from your spreadsheet are either from DigiKey or Mouser. No point to order one part from another vendor and have to paid their minimum shipping charge! Thinking that 175 degree F is an error is my error!! Oops again.
Amp's feet
You can make you own feet out of aluminum. I did mine out of 3/4" aluminum rod. I cut it on mitre saw into eight 3/4" long pieces, drilled holes through and after attaching them with countersunk screws to the amp put round pieces of self adhesive rubber (with slightly smaller diameter than legs) to the bottoms. You couldn't get better feet.🙂
You can make you own feet out of aluminum. I did mine out of 3/4" aluminum rod. I cut it on mitre saw into eight 3/4" long pieces, drilled holes through and after attaching them with countersunk screws to the amp put round pieces of self adhesive rubber (with slightly smaller diameter than legs) to the bottoms. You couldn't get better feet.🙂
Feet
Peter,
That is a great idea! By the way, do you own anything that you don't made yourself? ... kidding of course!
Peter,
That is a great idea! By the way, do you own anything that you don't made yourself? ... kidding of course!
Feet
I normally go to those interior design shops, kitchen and bath or may be home depot to look for the cupboard door knobs. I just found eight pieces of nice solid aluminum rather unique design door knobs for my current JLH mono block projects. Each one comes with brass screws and washers too. Cost between $8 to $30 cdn each depends on design and material.
My 2 penny.
I normally go to those interior design shops, kitchen and bath or may be home depot to look for the cupboard door knobs. I just found eight pieces of nice solid aluminum rather unique design door knobs for my current JLH mono block projects. Each one comes with brass screws and washers too. Cost between $8 to $30 cdn each depends on design and material.
My 2 penny.
Aleph Clone
Hello,
I’m getting ready to start my Aleph 2 project. I have a set of boards that I think came from this thread. I have two questions. First R28 is designated 7(I’m using the pass service manual as my building reference) times on the silkscreen side. Are there any other incorrectly marked parts, polarities etc? I’m thinking of doing a single chassis stereo version to save a few bucks on parts. Would a 1500 VA transformer be adequate?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Hello,
I’m getting ready to start my Aleph 2 project. I have a set of boards that I think came from this thread. I have two questions. First R28 is designated 7(I’m using the pass service manual as my building reference) times on the silkscreen side. Are there any other incorrectly marked parts, polarities etc? I’m thinking of doing a single chassis stereo version to save a few bucks on parts. Would a 1500 VA transformer be adequate?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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