Anyone live near Sacramento, CA
I hear that this surplus shop has Pass chassis and heat sinks.
Blue Collar Supply
4871 Florin Perkins Road, Sacramento, Calif 95826
If anyone is near there, I'd love to trade some matched fets, plus some custom transformers (1KVA 35VAC) to anyone that could go there and find some decent heat sinks and chassis stuff for me.
Best Regards,
Dale
I hear that this surplus shop has Pass chassis and heat sinks.
Blue Collar Supply
4871 Florin Perkins Road, Sacramento, Calif 95826
If anyone is near there, I'd love to trade some matched fets, plus some custom transformers (1KVA 35VAC) to anyone that could go there and find some decent heat sinks and chassis stuff for me.
Best Regards,
Dale
When you said "Pass Chassis and Heatsinks" ......... do you mean an exact look alike? It can't be, right? Just checking.
Rumor has it that they are Pass Labs rejects. Don't know for sure. I will call later today.
I saw the posting on AA.
Dale
I saw the posting on AA.
Dale
I read that yesterday afternoon on AA, and the topic said Aleph L and 0s. I would love to get my hands on some of that, if anyone can help me out with that.
Blue Collar Supply
4871 Florin Perkins Road
Sacramento, CA 95826
(916) 383-1442
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Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
Blue Collar Supply
4871 Florin Perkins Road
Sacramento, CA 95826
(916) 383-1442
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
Brian and harvardian,
Did you get any answer back for the heatsinks? I tried to call them today but the line was always occupied.
I live in the Bay area (~150 miles away) and might be able to take a look there if the news is confirmed.
THANKS!! 🙂
Did you get any answer back for the heatsinks? I tried to call them today but the line was always occupied.
I live in the Bay area (~150 miles away) and might be able to take a look there if the news is confirmed.
THANKS!! 🙂
For your information ......
For those of you who are interested to get "Wayne's" heatsink, the delivery time is about 2 to 3 weeks .... after they received your check. No credit card accepted. I place my order today .... about $140 for 8 pieces of 9" length each and anolized. Extrusion profile #MM11645B (B stands for black anolized).
For those of you who are interested to get "Wayne's" heatsink, the delivery time is about 2 to 3 weeks .... after they received your check. No credit card accepted. I place my order today .... about $140 for 8 pieces of 9" length each and anolized. Extrusion profile #MM11645B (B stands for black anolized).
Heat sinks
Hi,
I did get an email from George, the owner. He said that most were gone, but would look for me. Also, he stated that they are indeed cash-n-carry, but might help out some fellow DIY'ers. The counter guys were no help at all.
Dale
P.S. I did order the heat sinks from M&M.
Hi,
I did get an email from George, the owner. He said that most were gone, but would look for me. Also, he stated that they are indeed cash-n-carry, but might help out some fellow DIY'ers. The counter guys were no help at all.
Dale
P.S. I did order the heat sinks from M&M.
I am glad someone got an answer from Blue Collar Supply. I was working and living in the Sacramento area more than an year ago. And a friend told me about Blue Collar having some used Pass heatsinks. But I was working compressed work weeks grave yard shift and I had a tough time sleeping in the day time. Plus with other projects I was working on, I never made it to Blue Collar. My friend is in to tubes, so he never went either. And after a year since I first hear, I didn't want to burst any one bubble and post something that the picking would be slim. Also you would think that someone would have post a picture of their copy of one of the Aelph series amp some where on the net. But any way I think the heat sinks at www.a-and-t-labs.com would make the sides of an good size amplifier.
😎
😎
I just got back from picking up the boards from the board manufacturing place. They look quite nice. They are a lot thicker then I expected. The silkscreen came out nice.
My only complaint so far is that I made the hole to screw the to-220 heatsinks down to too small. Everything else seems fine so far. It should be really easy to drill the three holes bigger, since no part of the circuit depends on it.
I should get them shipped out tommorrow morning for those who I have received payment from.
I will take pictures tonight and post them.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
My only complaint so far is that I made the hole to screw the to-220 heatsinks down to too small. Everything else seems fine so far. It should be really easy to drill the three holes bigger, since no part of the circuit depends on it.
I should get them shipped out tommorrow morning for those who I have received payment from.
I will take pictures tonight and post them.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
Yes, for Q1, Q2 and Q3. I have allowed the option for the use of a small heatsink. It is not really needed, as others have not used it on their Aleph designs, but I figured it would be a good thing to have. Look at the layout here:
Aleph PCB
You will that there is room for a heatsink for Q1, Q2 and Q3.
By the way, fcel, I received your payment today.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
Aleph PCB
You will that there is room for a heatsink for Q1, Q2 and Q3.
By the way, fcel, I received your payment today.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
Picture of board (more in other thread)
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Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
Whoooeeeee you did it!!!!!
Way to go. They look great. I hadn't planned on making the Aleph anytime soon, but it is going to be hard to resist (no pun) starting on these boards.
Thanks for your efforts, we should all consider helping each other out more, as you have
Mark
Way to go. They look great. I hadn't planned on making the Aleph anytime soon, but it is going to be hard to resist (no pun) starting on these boards.
Thanks for your efforts, we should all consider helping each other out more, as you have
Mark
Aluminium Sheet Metal Shop
A couple post back, we were discussing sheet metals for building the chassis of Aleph 2 ........
I went & order the sheet metals yesterday at a local metal shop on my way back from work. Approximate dimensions are: 2 pieces at 9"x9"x3/16" (for the rear plates), 6 pieces at 9"x13-1/2"x3/16" (for the top, bottom and front plates). Total cost = $40!! Same price for 1/4" thick for every piece if they have it in stock! I believe this is really cheap. I will post the address of the sheet metal shop and their phone number after I pick up the finish product next week. I don't want to mislead anybody if they don't deliver what they promised.
A couple post back, we were discussing sheet metals for building the chassis of Aleph 2 ........
I went & order the sheet metals yesterday at a local metal shop on my way back from work. Approximate dimensions are: 2 pieces at 9"x9"x3/16" (for the rear plates), 6 pieces at 9"x13-1/2"x3/16" (for the top, bottom and front plates). Total cost = $40!! Same price for 1/4" thick for every piece if they have it in stock! I believe this is really cheap. I will post the address of the sheet metal shop and their phone number after I pick up the finish product next week. I don't want to mislead anybody if they don't deliver what they promised.
That sounds great! They probably charge by the pound like the place that I went to. What grade of aluminum did you get? I went with 6061 T6, which is a good grade. I could have spent $20 less and gone with 3003 alunimum, but I read that it is not as good. I went with 1/8" throughout, which is quite thick and heavy.
I might two pieces 3/8 - 1/2 thick pieces for the fronts of the amplifier like WayneS did. I am holding off for now, as I am also considering a nice carbon fiber front (I have a friend has a race shop and might be able to get me some), or a nice wooden front.
Good luck with your case.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
I might two pieces 3/8 - 1/2 thick pieces for the fronts of the amplifier like WayneS did. I am holding off for now, as I am also considering a nice carbon fiber front (I have a friend has a race shop and might be able to get me some), or a nice wooden front.
Good luck with your case.
--
Brian
gte619j@prism.gatech.edu
I've picked up the sheet metals today. I forgot to ask if they are 6061 T6 metal or not but they are 3/16" thick and overall they're pretty nice and heavy except for the messy scratch here and there. I wasn't expecting too much for $40.
I'm wondering now if anolizing would clear up the scratch? Anolizing means putting a coat of thin material on the surface of the metal .... am I right?
I'm wondering now if anolizing would clear up the scratch? Anolizing means putting a coat of thin material on the surface of the metal .... am I right?
Annodising puts a thin layer of oxide on the aluminium but it will not make scratches disappear.
When I picked up my metal, there really were not any large scratches, but I am planning on giving it the lightly brushed look using fine steel wool, then later on getting it anodized. Using various fine grades of steel wool will get rid of the scratched part and give you a finely brushed look. To finish it even more, I have some buffing compound (rouge) for a bench buffer, that I can apply lightly on a cloth and smooth out the finish.
I have received a couple more payments over the last two days, and I will mail the boards out tommorrow. I have had a busy week.
--
Brian
I have received a couple more payments over the last two days, and I will mail the boards out tommorrow. I have had a busy week.
--
Brian
Thanks Brian for mentioning using fine grade of steel wool ...... to get that fine brushed look .... and then may be consider anolizing it later if I still want to.
Places that do anodizing usually do brushing as well for additional fee. If I do it myself I'm using 6" belt sander with 100-150 grade sand paper and WD40. The other alternative is to use a hand block with the sand paper around it (you know flat piece of wood) and do it manually. Use a straight piece of wood as a guide so the lines on metal are even. Also use WD40 as the sanding is much better then. Scotch brite wool is used at the end to give it a finished look. All that is needed because when the scratches are deep (and they always are) wool alone won't fix it.
Enjoy your brushing.🙂
Enjoy your brushing.🙂
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