I mounted my run cap underneath the top panel. I cut the hole about 3/32" larger than the can and used the flange at the bottom to hold it in place with 3 nuts/bolts/washers. I also polished the can with some Simichrome. I didn't take it too far as the top panel itself is brushed. Here are some pictures:
Run Cap Bottom
Run Cap Top
Thanks -- that looks great! So the exterior of the cap itself is safe, in terms of a cover for it?
I'm in the finishing stages of planning my top panel with front panel express -- your layout looks really similar to mine. Are you happy with it? Where'd you get those plastic thingys' for the PCB mounting screws?
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Yes - the exterior of the cap itself is safe. And it’s grounded. I’m happy with my layout - I wouldn’t change the location of anything. The only thing I would have done differently is I would have added some vent holes over the mosfets and the regulator heat sinks, just to help dissipate some heat. Those plastic things are nylon standoffs. I can’t remember exactly from where I got them, but they’re not hard to find. I may have picked them up from the small parts section at Home Depot, or Ace Hardware?
Bottom mount diodes, ICs and Mosfets
I am mounting most parts to bottom of the board. I've come to the diodes, ICs and Mosfet install and I suppose they have to be mounted on the bottom reverse from a top mount to keep the correct lead in the correct hole. Am I correct on that point? Does this cause any problems with then mounting the HS's?
I am mounting most parts to bottom of the board. I've come to the diodes, ICs and Mosfet install and I suppose they have to be mounted on the bottom reverse from a top mount to keep the correct lead in the correct hole. Am I correct on that point? Does this cause any problems with then mounting the HS's?
Yes, they should be reversed. There is one which I dont remember which that can go both ways. Most of the heatsinks are fine, there is one that comes close to the caps but overall is OK.
You can see my pic in this post for correct orientation:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/157491-pictures-tubelab-amp-51.html#post6088833
You can see my pic in this post for correct orientation:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/157491-pictures-tubelab-amp-51.html#post6088833
Yes, all except for the dual diode D1 must be reversed.
There are two sets of holes for the heat sinks (except D1) so that they will fit from either side.
Test fit the parts, or actually solder them in, while they are screwed to the heat sinks so that you get the height correct and choose the correct holes.
For clarification:
Can D1 go either way?
I forgot to ask about IC-3 with the five leads. That can't be reversed. Will that work by just plugging it in backwards?
Thanks for the help
Can D1 go either way?
I forgot to ask about IC-3 with the five leads. That can't be reversed. Will that work by just plugging it in backwards?
Thanks for the help
Yes backwards and upside down is the same as reversed
see this post from tubelab for good pics of IC3 installed on the bottom
After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!
and yes D1 can go either way
What is the wattage of R2 did you guys use for 300B? It is supposed to be 300 ohms but no information about the wattage.
R2 is a small resistor, either 1/8, 1/4 or 1/2 watt will do fine, but it should be 1% or better. R1 and R2 together set the filament voltage.
I have instructions for the SE I built but have seen no written instructions for the TSE-II. What are the differences between Final Assembly, Checkout and Setting the Bias for the TSE-II and the SE?
I am interested in building the New tse11, as my first SSE is still working amazingly well, I have a couple psvane 300b tubes that are looking tp be used.
How can I order this board?
Thanks in advance.
How can I order this board?
Thanks in advance.
It can be ordered by sending payment to tech@tubelab.com via Paypal. Please use the "pay for goods or services" option. The friends and family option does not allow postage to be printed directly from Paypal requiring a trip to the post office, which is often closed (Covid) and the price is higher for the exact same shipping. Make sure that Paypal has your correct address. The board is USD $40 and shipping to Canada is $15.
Hi everybody! I am in the process of speccing out my build (TSE-II with 300B) and I wanted some opinions on incorporating headphone functionality into the amp. I talked to a couple people privately, but I thought I'd post here as well to get more opinions.
I was wondering if anyone here have used headphones with their 300B TSE-II. Right now I have a couple ZMF headphones (300 ohms, 100+ db sensitivity), and the hifiman arya (35 ohms, 90db sensitivity) that I would like to try driving. Is this even a good idea? And are there any special considerations I should take when building the amp for headphone use (output transformer specs, load resistors, etc), considering the massive output power of the 300B?
I was wondering if anyone here have used headphones with their 300B TSE-II. Right now I have a couple ZMF headphones (300 ohms, 100+ db sensitivity), and the hifiman arya (35 ohms, 90db sensitivity) that I would like to try driving. Is this even a good idea? And are there any special considerations I should take when building the amp for headphone use (output transformer specs, load resistors, etc), considering the massive output power of the 300B?
I've considered that... but I've been really set on a 300B amp. Main reason is I'd like to drive speakers too. Kind of an all-purpose amp. And I like how they look...
My TSE-II is built for use with 45 tubes. Sounds good with headphones or speakers. I do use a preamp with it so I can listen with headphones or speakers.