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After a 14 year run, the TSE must DIE!

tse-ii available?

Last week it was sunny and hot where we live in West Virginia. Thursday a storm system came through and the TV weather guys were talking SNOW, and my wife said SOUTH, so we are in Florida now. I got a shipment notice from the board guys, so they will be waiting for me when I get back this weekend. I will build one as quickly as possible to make sure there are no issues.


So can one use an adapter for a 6c45

In theory it's possible, but I have never tried them....or even seen one for that matter.
 
I received a PM asking about the cost of a TSE-II board. Due to it's larger size and gold finish it will be USD $40 instead of the usual $35.

We left Florida this morning and drove 12 hours north. We should be home tomorrow afternoon. The first real board assembly will start shortly thereafter. Ordinarily I can build one of these in a few hours, but a sinus infection and the resulting fever has seriously reduced my patience level.
 
I know what you mean. I need another amplifier like I need another hole in the head. My only excuse is that my expenses for this project will be minimal since I've been hoarding the appropriate output iron for around four years now.

BTW, after rereading my previous post it occurred to me that I may have come across as sounding a bit crass. An additional $250.00 for the order is probably a big deal for George (I know it would be for me). But my real point was that I still consider $40.00 per board an absolute bargain considering all he's put into this design. Heck - his, um, "fireworks" displays alone are worth that. :devilr:

I've probably said this before, but I'd still buy his board even if I were building a TSEII point-to-point; he's more than earned our support.
 
... But my real point was that I still consider $40.00 per board an absolute bargain considering all he's put into this design. Heck - his, um, "fireworks" displays alone are worth that. :devilr:

I've probably said this before, but I'd still buy his board even if I were building a TSEII point-to-point; he's more than earned our support.

I completely agree. I wouldn't mind paying $50 for the board. The time you save not having to build P2P is more than worth it.
 
I still consider $40.00 per board an absolute bargain

It rarely happens any more, but I used to get email blasting me for asking $35 for a PC board. One guy went on a rant over email, here, and another forum about what a rip off $35 was for something he could wire up himself point to point. About a month later he reappeared stating what a poor design the SSE was because it hummed. Then had the nerve to ask for help troubleshooting the poor design to fix the hum......several SSE owners all chimed in "what hum." It takes all kinds.

In the real scheme of things a $40 PCB might be pricey for a cheap amp, but some people pay more than that for their volume knob (not the pot, the knob) on their 300 B amps.

I left Florida last Friday with a sinus infection. By the time we got home Saturday evening I was in the ER with a serious fever. I did very little Sunday and Monday. The yard hadn't been mowed in almost two weeks and had gone from little growth to foot tall jungle. Sherri tried to mow the bulk of it with the riding mower, but she beat the 15 year old beast too hard and blew the engine. "It wont start." It was barely able to crank and backfired through the carb.

The return trip to the hospital yesterday resulted in a "go home and rest" order, but most of the infection is clearing. Up until today I hadn't felt like doing much, and I had soldered maybe 10 resistors in one of the new boards. This morning I tore down the 22HP V-twin Briggs and discovered a badly mangled pushrod, which was no longer resting in a rocker arm. Exactly how this happened is unclear, but maybe she severely overheated the beast mowing thick wet grass for a couple hours at full throttle. I'm hoping that's the olny failure mechanism, but I'm not optimistic. A new pushrod was $10 on Amazon Prime, so I'll find out on Saturday.

After ripping up the mower, I decided to build the TSE-II board.......Except I had forgot to order some missing parts before my trip. I decided to do the unthinkable in the name of time......I ripped apart my working proto amp. With any luck I'll finish the new board tomorrow and fire it up.

Another question before ordering parts......Is there any interest in pre-packaged parts kits for these boards? They would be a collection of all parts needed for populating the PC board. All the components for the board would be purchased from Mouser, Digikey, or Allied, and the tube sockets would come from ESRC.....all exactly the same stuff seen in my builds. The parts would be sorted and bagged and I would charge about $20 for doing this. I did it for The SPP and the SSE, and they sold in spurts. I would do this for as long as the parts kits continued to sell. That seemed to be one to two years for the SSE and SPP.

If there is interest, do we want gold tube sockets or tin? I need to order these NOW since I will see Stan (ESRC) at the Dayton hamfest next week (no shipping charges).
 

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It rarely happens any more, but I used to get email blasting me for asking $35 for a PC board. One guy went on a rant over email, here, and another forum about what a rip off $35 was for something he could wire up himself point to point. About a month later he reappeared stating what a poor design the SSE was because it hummed. Then had the nerve to ask for help troubleshooting the poor design to fix the hum......several SSE owners all chimed in "what hum." It takes all kinds.

In the real scheme of things a $40 PCB might be pricey for a cheap amp, but some people pay more than that for their volume knob (not the pot, the knob) on their 300 B amps.

I left Florida last Friday with a sinus infection. By the time we got home Saturday evening I was in the ER with a serious fever. I did very little Sunday and Monday. The yard hadn't been mowed in almost two weeks and had gone from little growth to foot tall jungle. Sherri tried to mow the bulk of it with the riding mower, but she beat the 15 year old beast too hard and blew the engine. "It wont start." It was barely able to crank and backfired through the carb.

The return trip to the hospital yesterday resulted in a "go home and rest" order, but most of the infection is clearing. Up until today I hadn't felt like doing much, and I had soldered maybe 10 resistors in one of the new boards. This morning I tore down the 22HP V-twin Briggs and discovered a badly mangled pushrod, which was no longer resting in a rocker arm. Exactly how this happened is unclear, but maybe she severely overheated the beast mowing thick wet grass for a couple hours at full throttle. I'm hoping that's the olny failure mechanism, but I'm not optimistic. A new pushrod was $10 on Amazon Prime, so I'll find out on Saturday.

After ripping up the mower, I decided to build the TSE-II board.......Except I had forgot to order some missing parts before my trip. I decided to do the unthinkable in the name of time......I ripped apart my working proto amp. With any luck I'll finish the new board tomorrow and fire it up.

Another question before ordering parts......Is there any interest in pre-packaged parts kits for these boards? They would be a collection of all parts needed for populating the PC board. All the components for the board would be purchased from Mouser, Digikey, or Allied, and the tube sockets would come from ESRC.....all exactly the same stuff seen in my builds. The parts would be sorted and bagged and I would charge about $20 for doing this. I did it for The SPP and the SSE, and they sold in spurts. I would do this for as long as the parts kits continued to sell. That seemed to be one to two years for the SSE and SPP.

If there is interest, do we want gold tube sockets or tin? I need to order these NOW since I will see Stan (ESRC) at the Dayton hamfest next week (no shipping charges).


Hi. I´m new in this thread, but i´ve been following your projects in the tubelab webpage. I´m very interested in your new TSE-II board, a bargain, i think. I would be interested in a package with board and parts, and i prefer gold tube sockets.
Regards from Spain.
 
That sounds like a very difficult couple of weeks. Sorry to hear you've had to deal with all that. I would count myself as interested in a parts kit. I would imagine the parts kit would be more expensive than they were for the SSE, as these have a lot more parts. Do you have a rough guesstimate on price? I've never really considered gold sockets. Is there much of an advantage?
 
It rarely happens any more, but I used to get email blasting me for asking $35 for a PC board. One guy went on a rant over email, here, and another forum about what a rip off $35 was for something he could wire up himself point to point.

Love those. :) "I can buy a $10 board on eBay WITH PARTS!!!"... Great! I'm not stopping you.

If you charge too little, people will complain about the shipping cost. That happened to me in the beginning, even though I charged the exact cost of shipping (and ate the cost of the padded envelopes).

In the real scheme of things a $40 PCB might be pricey for a cheap amp

For a PCB of that size, gold plated, and designed by someone competent in the art, documented and supported to the level that you do, $40 is inexpensive.

About a month later he reappeared stating what a poor design the SSE was because it hummed. Then had the nerve to ask for help troubleshooting the poor design to fix the hum......several SSE owners all chimed in "what hum." It takes all kinds.

I've had that happen too. My response: "I'll be happy to help you with that. My consulting charge is $125/hour." Thankfully, those guys are very few and far between.

I love reading your stories and envy your ability to tell them. Keep it up.

Tom
 
Time for that zero turn.Or If you want an interesting project and a tough mower, the Case/Ingersol 444 or similar (220 etc) with K-series Kohler,Hydraulic pump drive, has many attachments (snow blowers,mower decks,splitters,PTO attachments,Simple, tough as nails, run forever, The Kohlers are easy to rebuild, parts are easy to find. The engines in the series (10-14 1960's rated HP) have plenty of power for most uses.Back to the TSE-II, yeah, I would buy one(only one?), because I need more amps,I am sure the amp sounds really good,and I can fit at least one more amp in my spare bedroom.How much for the complete kit do you reckon?
 
I'm interested in the board with or without parts--but if you wanted to include a parts kit, that would be great. And don't be a 'saint'--mark the parts up a bit. You've more than earned it, and deserve a profit for all your work, and I for one am more than happy to pay for that convenience. And if you specify what transformers would work best for whichever tubes are chosen, that would be great as well. (if the builders were to order transformers on their own, that would save you a lot on shipping charges.)
 
Hope your feeling better George!

This info can help the immune system as it's not as good when we get older, and for some of us it isn't so good when we are young unfortunately.

Forum won't let me post it as a file as it's not MS.



Diet & Ways to Boost the Immune System

- Gets weaker especially as we age or from what we eat or inhale.

-Even if Genetics may play a role it’s worth a try!

Macrobiotic Diet (Following Sept 1982 LIFE Magazine article where a Dr. tried it to help his bad cancer situation where it had spread to most of his organs and bones -which it did keep it at bay till about 1998 when he was in a bad car accident and died shortly after it. He first started the diet in about 1974 . to Boost the Immune system. The Cancer disappeared from his CAT scans in a few months only coming back if he got off the diet.

Dr. Gundry’s (New York - Heart Surgeon) recent recommendations (Re- Lectins) ) follow this diet closely and to him it helps for heart disease, cancer, and inflammation problems and related diseases.


It also helps those with IBD, acid reflux, arthritis & Type I & II Diabetic diseases. Maybe Dementia & nervous system diseases too!

Worth a try for any disease! Dr’s @ Scientific American have said “We are what we eat”

No colds or flues anymore!

Feel much younger, have more energy, & live longer!

It contains no processed food, meat, sugar or drinks or deep fried foods.

Most “ Wild Salmon” is farm fed so avoid it and Organic Seafood should be good. Canned Salmon (Walmart Brand seems to have a safe new lining) & local Jack, Pickerel , & Trout fish. Limit Tuna because of Mercury and local fish can have some.

Avoid canned though because of the lining and fresh or frozen has more food value.

Organic Asparagus , Celery, Carrots, Broccoli, Cabbage, Onions, Swiss Chard, Kale, Garlic, Cauliflower, Avocado, Lettuce & fresh Mushrooms.

Organic Apples, Oranges (lemons & grapefruit) , Peaches, Pears, Nectarines, Berries etc. (Peeling doesn’t help as chemicals soak in.) Even with organic bananas don’t eat the black core as it is full of bacteria.

Big US name brand Raisins & Prunes may be okay.

Organic Spices best or avoid most at first.

Don’t drink Chlorinated water because the Chlorine turns the organics in the water carcinogenic & distilled water & reverse osmosis may not be best long term as the process removes the minerals. You can however get a filter that add the right minerals.
Freezing water slowly and using the resulting ice on top for drinking seems to be a great way to purify it as it squeezes out the bad stuff!


No grains, corn, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas, and most nuts as they highly inflame the system. A small amount of white rice may be okay later on as it is lowest on the list. It may be possible to pressure cook dried beans to reduce their count a lot too and try later.




Scientific American & Fine Home Building mention carcinogens in the home should be avoided and include ones from harsh cleaners like Mr. Clean etc., painting, wood oils, , glade plug ins, perfumed candles & soaps etc. as they contain petrol products & formaldehyde.

If building new beware



Multiple Vitamins have been found to be not the best for many people with reactions to them. Chemicals or contaminants or reaction to some vitamins could be the issue especially in excess.

Pain killers and acid control meds for heartburn can damage critical organs like the kidneys so improved diet habits are best used.


There was a recent documentary on TV about Golf Courses using HD pesticides & herbicides that are banned, but allowed strangely as it’s about $. Bottom line is workers and some golfers that are out there have a lot have high cancer rates.

Of course is still helps to get plenty of exercise, and once you start it will get easier!


A Radon Gas test kit may be in order too from what has been said about that!
 

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A good synthetic oil can really help those air cooled engines last ( or any engine)
as I have found under tough conditions/use.


If the job situation improves I will likely buy even a kit of parts too! Your pricing is really nice from a GREAT GUY!

Keep up the great work!

Thank you!

Randy
 
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How much for the complete kit do you reckon?

There will likely never be a "complete kit." There are just too many possibilities with transformers and chassis builds due to personal preference and different line voltage requirements to ever make stocking these parts viable, and as noted would involve two sets of shipping charges.

The parts that get soldered on to the PC board are a different story. I will look into the costs involved in stocking a complete kit of these parts, but as of now there are some numbers that I do not know. Tube sockets are one of them. I bought enough tube sockets about 15 years ago for a real good price such that I haven't had to buy any since. The 4 pin sockets are nearly gone now, but I have no idea what they cost today. I'll get the numbers together in the next few days, but for now I have some soldering to do.
 
A good synthetic oil

I raced Turbo Dodges back in the 80's and early 90's. The ONLY oil that lived in those engines was Mobil 1. I put it in everything since.

can help the immune system

One of the lab tech's in the hospital told me that respiratory issues have skyrocketed here and he believed it's due to all the road construction (dust) and large trucks (diesel soot).

In this case I know what caused mine. Sherri and I went to one of those outdoor water parks in Orlando and both of us got a face full of water when the raft flipped over. We both had stuffy head / coughs that night. Hers went away, mine didn't.
 
Great on your use of Mobil 1, as it's my fav too! So that B&S engine likely will be fine with a new pushrod!

That park water or any that has lot's of humans or animals in it can carry nasty stuff as my mother found out 15 years ago, and contributed to her death at 77 in 2016.

She got legionella bacteria in her lungs from a hot tub in AZ, and it wasn't diagnosed properly for too long so she ended up on a heavy dose of antibiotics for 2 years which made her quite sick. She ended up with only one lung that was partially good and was on oxygen for her last year.
 
So I finished putting all the parts in the board this morning, took a step back, and plugged it in........only to be met by the smell of smoke being let out of a resistor.......not ALL the smoke, just some. The DUMM BLONDE had put the zener diode in backwards (why do I always mess up at least one diode. I have been doing this long enough and the picture is printed right on the board). OK, I turned the diode around and fired it up.....there was enough smoke remaining inside to power up the board.

It has played flawlessly all day long. It has played everything from Dave Brubeck to King Gizzard, and is currently almost done with the Loreena McKennitt the Mask and Mirror CD.

I got bored with the status quo a couple of hours ago and cranked the Variac on the input up all the way. The line voltage going into the Hammond 372HX is bouncing between 128 and 130 volts on the 120 volt tap.

How much voltage can 20 year old Chinese 2A3's eat? B+ varies between 380 and 385 volts. Bias was set at 70 mA per tube. Ever see a blue glow on the glass of a 2A3?

How hot can that new filament regulator get? It's been too hot to touch for hours. 2A3's at high line voltage is worse case. Some supplemental heat sinking might be required with 2A3's in a poorly ventilated case. I am running just the stock heat sink at the moment.
 

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