Is your DMM set to measure AC volts?
What page of testing are you on? Pages 66-72?
Best,
Anand.
What page of testing are you on? Pages 66-72?
Best,
Anand.
I re-did my trafo solder joints.. all of them and now when I connect with the amp off I get no voltage and when its on im getting 6.6 volts approximately across the power tube test points and rectifier socket
I was about measure the input tube test pins but stupidly somehow forgot to solder those 2 in.
But at least I solved the initial problem.
I was about measure the input tube test pins but stupidly somehow forgot to solder those 2 in.
But at least I solved the initial problem.
Also wondering if you have any of the 3 PCB to spare. I will gladly purchase one of each, or whatever you have available. Thanks!I have finished my diy Aegis and have extra pcb if anyone is interested…. Fun project!!
I second that idea too.Is there a way to test the Elma switch once the soldering done to the pcb before the wiring to the transformers are done just to ensure all the pins are correctly soldered?
I am wondering if adding edge playing to the Aegis Amp PCB ver 1.1 would have any benefit (or detrimental affects)? Thanks all.
Googling for "edge playing" comes up with something very inappropriate to diy audio efforts. Can you elaborate?
lol! I wrote it without glasses on and didn’t noticed how it came out.
It should read “edge plating”. It’s adding copper (or some metal type) to the edge of the PCB to reduce EMI, and reduce “transient” signals from traveling in or out of the PCB.
It should read “edge plating”. It’s adding copper (or some metal type) to the edge of the PCB to reduce EMI, and reduce “transient” signals from traveling in or out of the PCB.
Hahaha I wish my typos were that awesome 🙂 Thanks (seriously), I learned something new about PCB design from you.
Hey, admins, here's yet another example of why we should be allowed to edit our posts without a time constraint. Every other site I'm on lets us edit posts for way longer than 20-30 minutes or so, usually forever...
Hey, admins, here's yet another example of why we should be allowed to edit our posts without a time constraint. Every other site I'm on lets us edit posts for way longer than 20-30 minutes or so, usually forever...
I am planning to sell the unit I built for the instructions of this project. I would like to move it relatively quickly, so selling for not much more than the cost of parts, $2,200 + shipping in the USA only (for now). That price is without tubes, I can include a set of starter tubes if the buyer wants to pay for them, which I will sell at the price I paid. Also, given there have been some reliability issues with the 400V Jupiter copper foil caps, I can change the coupling capacitors to Jupiter Comet aluminum foil PIO if the buyer would like. If anyone is interested, shoot me a message, otherwise I will list in the classifieds, thanks.
Hey Steve slater sent me this other cable instead of mogami (RG 316) since he didn't have mogami. But this RG 316 won't work. Any idea where I can get mogami or a good replacement in canada ?
USA sources are charging a lot to ship like $3 of wire.
USA sources are charging a lot to ship like $3 of wire.
@Pars I'll check with them. I am looking for 2944 as per the BOM at the top of the thread.
Also if that doesn't work out would this work?
https://partsconnexion.com/connex-cable-bl-ag-interconnect-cable-2-x-23awg/
I have the WBT Topline Rcas which I believe support up to 16 awg.
Also if that doesn't work out would this work?
https://partsconnexion.com/connex-cable-bl-ag-interconnect-cable-2-x-23awg/
I have the WBT Topline Rcas which I believe support up to 16 awg.
for anyone contemplating to build this headphone amp, I have two complete sets of Lundahl transformers ready to ship ex stock USA
My own Aegis. I bought only the top plate from Landfall and I made the rest with maple. For the back and front I completed with my stock of recycled aluminum plate to mask the larger holes I had to drill into the wood panels. The bottom plate is also made using recycled aluminum plate.
It worked the first time, and sounds as good as ever, here using Mullard KT88 tubes. I added a small DC supply for a front Power-On green led.
SB
It worked the first time, and sounds as good as ever, here using Mullard KT88 tubes. I added a small DC supply for a front Power-On green led.
SB
Attachments
I finished aegis and started doing resistance checks. They were all ok except for 1 channel of the impedence staying at about 1.2 and not changing when I switched it on the switcher. I decided to try to power it on to do voltage checks. As soon as I connected a power cord (not even turning the amp on) I heard a very small pop sound. I am guessing I blew the fuse because now the tubes won't light at all when they did before at an earlier step.
Honestly no idea how can I even fix this since I can't even power it up to do voltage checks.
Honestly no idea how can I even fix this since I can't even power it up to do voltage checks.
Hi all,
due to raw material cost increases, Lundahl have raised their prices (for the first time in 4 years).
The AEGIS Lundahl transformer set, with enclosures and hardware, is now $998.11, this includes a 10% discount and shipping to the lower 48.
You will need to provide 8x M4 machine screws to mount the transformer/housing assembly to the top chassis plate.
Right now, I have one complete set ready to ship out.
due to raw material cost increases, Lundahl have raised their prices (for the first time in 4 years).
The AEGIS Lundahl transformer set, with enclosures and hardware, is now $998.11, this includes a 10% discount and shipping to the lower 48.
You will need to provide 8x M4 machine screws to mount the transformer/housing assembly to the top chassis plate.
Right now, I have one complete set ready to ship out.
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