Advise needed on a phono preamp (occasional harshness in high frequency range)

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Njm2068 is better, just not unity gain stable and output drive which isn't really a big thing with phono preamps but its max supply is +-18V.Also njm2114 was advertised as a better replacement for ne5532, but its Rin is 100k which you will feel especially if you put it against lm833.Similar story with njm2043 .The only downside of lm833 is max Vsupply compared to ne5534.It beats ne5534 on all other counts.
 
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It doesn't beat the NE5534A on price<>performance. Also, as I mentioned, be very aware of the numbers Self it putting up - this is the input shorted noise and is not reflective of the situation with a real-world cartridge attached where you can expect 5dB worse performance. The source <> amplifier must be treated as a system in an MM EQ amp.
 
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It doesn't beat the NE5534A on price<>performance. Also, as I mentioned, be very aware of the numbers Self it putting up - this is the input shorted noise and is not reflective of the situation with a real-world cartridge attached where you can expect 5dB worse performance. The source <> amplifier must be treated as a system in an MM EQ am

Put a buffer on the output and take the EQ network after the buffer. At normal HF input levels, the peak current into the feedback network with a low gain setting resistance (~100 Ohms) and gain of 35 to 40 dB is 1-2 mA. A 5532/4 or OPA1641/2 will easily handle this. At worst case with max HF input just before clipping, the output current approaches 20 mA - but you are highly unlikely to ever encounter signals at this level on a vinyl incl. pops and scratches.

See herd for more info https://hifisonix.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/RIAA-Equalization-Amplifiers-V2.0.pdf
Would LM4562 be ok to use it as the buffer?
 
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I'm pretty sure you're on a completely wrong path.Can we see your first actual circuit, pcb, decoupling and know the supply voltages?You should have at least +-18v supply.Ne5534 allows for +-20v with no problem and max +-22v.You need headroom first.I know it's counterintuitive but go to +-18v supply first, then +-20v and listen.Use a feedback network from one of the well known commercial designs first, don't go with diy versions cause commercial designs were sold by the millions so they are thoroughly tested. Ne5534 is guaranteed for max +-22v and it's cheap.If you burn a few at +-22v there's no real waste.
 
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I'm pretty sure you're on a completely wrong path.Can we see your first actual circuit, pcb, decoupling and know the supply voltages?You should have at least +-18v supply.Ne5534 allows for +-20v with no problem and max +-22v.You need headroom first.I know it's counterintuitive but go to +-18v supply first, then +-20v and listen.Use a feedback network from one of the well known commercial designs first, don't go with diy versions cause commercial designs were sold by the millions so they are thoroughly tested. Ne5534 is guaranteed for max +-22v and it's cheap.If you burn a few at +-22v there's no real waste.
I posted the first circuit on the first post of this threat. The voltage supply is +-15 and I'm using NE5532 right now .
 
I'm pretty sure you're on a completely wrong path.Can we see your first actual circuit, pcb, decoupling and know the supply voltages?You should have at least +-18v supply.Ne5534 allows for +-20v with no problem and max +-22v.You need headroom first.I know it's counterintuitive but go to +-18v supply first, then +-20v and listen.Use a feedback network from one of the well known commercial designs first, don't go with diy versions cause commercial designs were sold by the millions so they are thoroughly tested. Ne5534 is guaranteed for max +-22v and it's cheap.If you burn a few at +-22v there's no real waste.
This is the PCB:
IMG_20221001_172225.jpg


And the power supply PCB:
IMG_20221001_172244.jpg
 
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Apparently looks fine.
I'm going to repeat my last PM here to.No matter what schematic you choose go first with +-18v supply.Then if you want to be conservative try D Self schematic with 2 ne5534 found in post 12 .With two ne5534 I'd shamelessly go with the max voltage supply of +-22v as they are cheap.Burning a few just adds to your experience.The only problem is saturating next stages output on dusty records...
You need yo learn using clamping diodes in the signal path .

For lm4562 go with the passive design found in its datasheet.
There are better designs, but I doubt that DSelf schematic will suffer of any shortcomings mentioned by you.@Molly hada topic on D Self design back in 2009.Listen to @Molly.Talk to him.
I'd go with different designs implying discrete components too, but you need to understand some simple, yet effective principles first.
 
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If you make a pcb for 2 x ne5534 make space for 6 additional low noise transistors (ksc1845) and 4 antiparallel clamping diodes for the future.Look back and see there's a schematic where the input trz inside ne5534 were replaced by output transistors.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-in-high-frequency-range.390030/post-7129131
Now the clamping diodes can be placed between pin 8 and 1 with or without replacing the input transistors.They can be ordinary 1n4148, faster 1n4152 also germanium or even schotky diodes and can be placed as in the third screenshot of post #49 where you see Aiwa c30 phono preamp.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-in-high-frequency-range.390030/post-7129472
It's probably the 20th time I say that: the second and third printscreen is what I and very few other people on this planet consider to be the best solid state phono preamp ever made and that has all the best techniques to limit that "harshness" no matter its source and also has the lowest impedance riaa network and the highest supply lines at +-43V.
You can see that each critical gain stage is clamped too.
You can clamp the op amp inputs differently as in the fourth printscreen if you consider ac coupling the normal inputs of an op amp but that's Nakamichi ...and a Nak is a Nak!
There's a fourth way of clamping an op amp inputs, but that's for the next stages after a high supply phono preamp and we'll discuss it later after you build your new ne5534 preamp.
 

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I'm pretty sure you're on a completely wrong path.Can we see your first actual circuit, pcb, decoupling and know the supply voltages?You should have at least +-18v supply.Ne5534 allows for +-20v with no problem and max +-22v.You need headroom first.I know it's counterintuitive but go to +-18v supply first, then +-20v and listen.Use a feedback network from one of the well known commercial designs first, don't go with diy versions cause commercial designs were sold by the millions so they are thoroughly tested. Ne5534 is guaranteed for max +-22v and it's cheap.If you burn a few at +-22v there's no real waste.
that's a good suggestion. mcintosh preamps use 5534A op amps for the phono stage - just copy that for a quick test.
and you can brag that its a mcintosh clone.
:)
 
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lots out there. here a schematic and specs from their C-45.
i think i've posted this before on this site.
here's some quick review comments from stereophile.
specific to phono stage in 2nd paragraph from bottom of page.
in spite of it using opamps, their comments were kind.
maybe they didn't know ...
https://www.stereophile.com/content/music-round-4-page-2
 

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