I would make those speakers work just like that, the only problem is that they are on the other side of the planet. 🤣
I read all the posts.
People are throwing cross over designs at you with no idea about the drivers you have. I wish I had been this lucky when I asked for help crossing my Gama 15 with 2002PSD CD.
Anyway this is how I did it. Do it with unknown drivers.
I downloaded a bunch of free freq generators and RTA s/w for my Smartphone and windows.
I then play a series for freq sweeps thru the drivers. One by one.
I observe the response curve in the Freq Analysis / RTA s/w.
Yes my mic is not calibrated. But the graph I get is good enough to show me where my driver is working and where its not.
i.e. My 10 inch double sweeton magnet works from 40 hz to 2Kh.
My tweeter works from 2K to 14k.
I then have a starting point from my crossover.
You can use a simple web page to spit out a few cross over designs. For the freq ranges you want.
Or you can use more complex free s/w like vituxcad xsim etc to try different values and see how they impact.
You still haven't responded to my first question which was have you tested the components you found inside the box. i.e. when I tested the 3.3 Uf caps inside my bose book shelf speakers they only measured at 1.1 uf. The price of a system does not define how it sounds or works. My best sounding amp and speakers are 10$ intex IT2000 they out perform my bose speakers and all of the amps I have built so far. The learning curve is steep. You must risk looking like a fool and ask as many questions as you like. But that is what DIY + Hobby is right. your learning for fun. A subject you like / fancy.
People are throwing cross over designs at you with no idea about the drivers you have. I wish I had been this lucky when I asked for help crossing my Gama 15 with 2002PSD CD.
Anyway this is how I did it. Do it with unknown drivers.
I downloaded a bunch of free freq generators and RTA s/w for my Smartphone and windows.
I then play a series for freq sweeps thru the drivers. One by one.
I observe the response curve in the Freq Analysis / RTA s/w.
Yes my mic is not calibrated. But the graph I get is good enough to show me where my driver is working and where its not.
i.e. My 10 inch double sweeton magnet works from 40 hz to 2Kh.
My tweeter works from 2K to 14k.
I then have a starting point from my crossover.
You can use a simple web page to spit out a few cross over designs. For the freq ranges you want.
Or you can use more complex free s/w like vituxcad xsim etc to try different values and see how they impact.
You still haven't responded to my first question which was have you tested the components you found inside the box. i.e. when I tested the 3.3 Uf caps inside my bose book shelf speakers they only measured at 1.1 uf. The price of a system does not define how it sounds or works. My best sounding amp and speakers are 10$ intex IT2000 they out perform my bose speakers and all of the amps I have built so far. The learning curve is steep. You must risk looking like a fool and ask as many questions as you like. But that is what DIY + Hobby is right. your learning for fun. A subject you like / fancy.
Yes, I agree with this.
After seeing all photos I now understand the speaker and its very low quality.
A single tweeter capacitor is all they deserve. Adding a louder tweeter is a maybe (?)
Thanks for your reply. if you read all the posts you would see that I have in fact tested all the components and posted the results.
Yeah they eat at my place all the bloody time, and I look after the little one every Friday too LOL.
Hmm Not quite identical, one speaker has a significantly longer voice coil than the other.
I'd like to thank you all for taking the time to indulge me with my little experiment, You are correct $20 speakers aren't worth the effort, however I was simply interested to see if they could be improved as the drivers looked half way decent. Anyway, as I mentioned earlier, I'm 66 and have industrial hearing impairment and after some experimenting with other high quality speaker, I have noticed that I actually can't hear any of the tweeters at all LOL. But I can hear most if not all of the mid range and this is where I think these speaker are lacking.
Me thinks a mid and low range crossover may be what's needed. Just my humble opinion.
You've all been very kind and I appreciate the education and entertainment value of this forum.
Me thinks a mid and low range crossover may be what's needed. Just my humble opinion.
You've all been very kind and I appreciate the education and entertainment value of this forum.
I hope that's sarcasm, because I disagree. It takes skill to make a speaker sound good.
There are various clips of those speakers on Youtube. On some they sound like they are faulty, somewhere quite decent for budget speakers.
Yes I'm still screwing around with them,LOL.
I connected the amp to the tweeters alone and could hardly hear them at all, in fact they may as well not even be there.
Bypassing the caps made a huge difference the volume increased by a massive margin, 100 percent
Load enough to make them annoying.
I'm guessing they need some protective load so I'll look at constructing a circuit for them.
I connected the amp to the tweeters alone and could hardly hear them at all, in fact they may as well not even be there.
Bypassing the caps made a huge difference the volume increased by a massive margin, 100 percent
Load enough to make them annoying.
I'm guessing they need some protective load so I'll look at constructing a circuit for them.
I think you're going overkill. Do not connect the tweeters without the caps - the ARE are the protection. The tweeters will blow very quickly.
Throw away the existing caps. Replace them with ONE 2.2uf capacitor. Throw in a bit of wadding. They will sound fine.
I know these things. I have their baby brothers.
I rescued their cousins from a dumpster . . .
And used the drivers for a 2.1 system.
That's dangerous. I didn't say to do that, but to add 1uF parallel to the existing capacitors, or to put new 3.3uF capacitors instead of the factory ones. You will burn the tweeters, or you will damage them mechanically, they must not work directly connected to the amplifier.
Bypassing cap before tweeter and feeding it full range is nuts.
It's likely that the original cap is dried and have very small capacity now. Should be replaced asap.
...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Rick!
It's likely that the original cap is dried and have very small capacity now. Should be replaced asap.
...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Rick!
2uF itself does bring the response down a lot, here compared to a common LR4 @ 2k5
Edit: 5dB/div, sorry I cut that off.
Edit: 5dB/div, sorry I cut that off.