@mabat and I've got another question, too — does the driver’s dome emit a spherical wavefront (except in the top octave)? Could that be used with ATH waveguides?
For example, a phase plug on the back of the driver (instead of the back cover) with channels like the ones in your ESP design, but without the need for bends?
For example, a phase plug on the back of the driver (instead of the back cover) with channels like the ones in your ESP design, but without the need for bends?
It would be cool if a guy offered a combo deal on all the Tritonia waveguides 😉
Dont have a clue on why I got painted into this corner but Im printing a Crowe ES600 with 0.12 layers and 20% infill for a guy and it takes 2 days and 20 hours. Pr horn half. So 8 days for a pair of horns 😳
For additional stiffness, probably. But plastic - bitumen - epoxy (if it all adhered properly) would be better for damping since it would give you CLD.
hey guys, been doing a tonne of reading here, super excited to start working on my own horns, big issue is ive been trying to get the latest version 4.7.0 of ATH, but looks like the download link has been broken for a while, i found 4.6.0 but it refuses to open on both my pc's
anyone have the latest they could link me?
Cheers!
anyone have the latest they could link me?
Cheers!
Those are not compatible parts, Oleg. When you asked if an ESP can be used with a constant directivity horn, I understood the question as general - yes, but it would need to be designed together. So, you can try anything but it's all unpredictable in this case.
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That's exactly with what I started a long time ago, but never made anything actually usable. It was not as easy as it seemed at first -
It would need two lifetimes to pursue all these ideas. Maybe more...
Hi, first time here. I've bought the Triotini_XS files for a DFM2535 build. The Horn has been printed, but I'm confused about choosing the flange type. I'm using FreecAD to view the files but can't make out how it fits.
Can someone help, please?
Can someone help, please?
Attachments
That was my plan for the summer, to try anything just for fun. I'm more than happy with the current sound, it just gets boring, and the printer starting to get dusty. 🙂 Besides, I wanted to buy something else to support your work with a couple cups of coffee!
And I'm certainly asking questions in general and realize that only devices fully developed as one unit work best. I don't really want to change my drivers, I like the way they sound, and I like low crossover better than perfect upper octave behavior. And I want to compare the difference in sound with constant directivity at least up to 8-10kHz. Even just a scaled device will allow to check it, I guess that's where I'll start.
Oh, I seem to have missed this post, or read earlier, forgot about it and reinvented the wheel once again 🙂
As the description says:
There's also a "lower" version of the type1 flange, just in case that the tall flange would be too tight to fit into the thread (this is a bit difficult to control in advance with 3D printing). The lower one should fit more easily. At first I was a bit worried about the thread and the tolerances, but I think it turned out pretty well, I like this mounting method. You need a decent quality printer, of course, but that's already more a rule than exception these days.
Your prints look quite nice, BTW.
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Geez, give the guy a break 😉. Mabat, you have done lot of amazing work here in a very short time. Amazing stuff. You should treat yourself and turn the notifications off for a few days.
Whenever there is diffraction there will be a reflection which can resonate back down the throat. This will yield coloration. The effect can often be seen in the electrical impedance as humps.
Quite correct.