I think it is absolutely necessary or the acoustical results will not be correct. But we all have different needs and wants 🙂
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All that matters are the resulting acoustic responses, not the initial state. You don't have to start with flat responses - it does no harm but it's superfluous. It simply makes no difference.
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The region from about 1.5 k to 4k is the area in which our hearing gives us spatial cues. Actually it starts a little lower, but the point for this graph is that you have a fairly large dip where it actually will be audible very readily.
You can eq flat then add the crossover.
But for example, for a LR24 crossover target, you can add a capacitor so 6db at high FR like maybe 10k then add a butterworth of any type at any FR to match a LR24 and tweak the remaining with EQ. At the end the acoustical target is right but you have never used an electrical LR24.
Thomas
But for example, for a LR24 crossover target, you can add a capacitor so 6db at high FR like maybe 10k then add a butterworth of any type at any FR to match a LR24 and tweak the remaining with EQ. At the end the acoustical target is right but you have never used an electrical LR24.
Thomas
I thought I'd post a fabrication update since none of my friends are woodworkers and my wife (bless her soul) feigns interest but probably doesn't care much - I finally got all of the petals milled, glued, and pieced together. I cut in some domino mortise slots to help with alignment and did a down-and-dirty dry fit tonight to see how it would fit together as now - after all that work - was really the only moment I'd be able to see if it actually fits together or not. Thankfully, everything went together smoothly and there's maybe 1 miter with 1/64" of a gap I can probably fudge. I think I am going to route a 1/8" fillet at the edges of each of the petals to really emphasize the "petal" quality, but overall the toughest part of this project has come together pretty well.
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So the correct method is to measure and eq on a per driver basis? But I should be doing that gated or in a anoectic chamber?
I'm going to need another usb cable so i can have my amps plugged in at the same time as the mic
I'm going to need another usb cable so i can have my amps plugged in at the same time as the mic
That looks very cool and also a ton of work! reinforcing my choice to buy a 3d printer instead of a CNC machine 😀
Thanks for drawing my attention to that - Yeah I suspect you might be right and I'll look into it and see what is going on. A similar dip at the subwoofer area too.
yes: per driver, in enclosure, gated, with angles: -> vcad -> XO-sim -> speaker application -> re-measure -> (/circle)
https://www.grimmaudio.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/speakers.pdf
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ents-spinoramas-with-rew-and-vituixcad.21860/
https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/VituixCAD/VituixCAD_Measurement_REW.pdf
My favourite is epoxy filled with metal powder (brass, aluminum). It is quite laborous, kind of a craft, but the results can be really rewarding, especially if you don't mind (or even like) the idea that it looks a bit "worn-out". The idea is to hide as much print residuals as possible. Instead of metal powder you could also just color an epoxy with pigment. But I find epoxy in general really good for this, as it also hardens the whole thing significantly.
Or something like this: https://www.k2-global.com/en/products/k2-bumper-400-ml
Or something like this: https://www.k2-global.com/en/products/k2-bumper-400-ml
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Electroplating the final part would be cool but what a tedious job.
A fairly easy way is acrylic paint, there are many colors available.
It's more like an update, past pages had past versions of the system, now closer to the finish than ever 🙂
- RCF nd940 in 520 horn
- 18'' Faital Pro 18fh500 in resistive cardioid box (not finished, but generally works - there are resistive ports on the back wall, I still want to try to do the side wall as well)
- 2х10'' servo subwoofers on the wardrobe under the ceiling
- Hybrid crossover ~400 Hz, passive + overal EQ (not finished, but good enough))
- The subwoofers work together with the mains up to 100 Hz
- Lyngdorf TDAI-1120 - amp, EQ, bass management