The same for the DFM-2535 (one-piece version added to the package T520-25-STD-3).
This is how it's printed (with some supports, of course):
This is how it's printed (with some supports, of course):
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This may be better for squeezing the gasket foam with a plastic part (package updated).
In general I had never issues removing the foam from a CD. Cutter knife and afterwards some acetone. Like that more than undefined squeezed foam....
Yeah I know I have done that. It's not perfect yet but probably not a lot of point getting highly detailed with it until I've got both speakers
Here is the raw measurement I got from the new horn: The dip at 12k is concerning - crossover is 4th order at 650hz (and 85hz to a subwoofer) I will measure again after sanding and painting. Just from initial listening I feel like that xover is a bit low for the CD (SBA 65CDNT)
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I retuned it for 845hz 2nd order crossover today - much better imo. 3 petals to go on the 2nd horn!
I will bet you guys disapprove but all i do it the basic crossover (845hz 12db/o) and let dirac fix up the rest (i apply some curves in there) - it does a great job tbh.
I will bet you guys disapprove but all i do it the basic crossover (845hz 12db/o) and let dirac fix up the rest (i apply some curves in there) - it does a great job tbh.
These are simply not measurements which you can base any crossover design on. You need to take (semi)anechoic data, complex frequency responses (i.e. magnitude and phase) of all the drivers separately - that's an absolute must. Otherwise it's just a cut&try, unlikely to lead to anything really good. You're still basically blind here.
Dirac can "fix up" only a small part of it.
Dirac can "fix up" only a small part of it.
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I didnt think it would work either but it actually sounds really good.
this is from REW with 1/6th smoothing after dirac (in room) . Yeah it is very far from flat but it sounds great tbh. I will put some more effort into it once the horns are smooth and painted and there is a pair of them.
I also time aligned each driver in the hypex amp and you can't tell sound is coming from the speakers it's just floating in space and sounds very real.
Green is your horn design mabat and purple is the PAP wood horn
this is from REW with 1/6th smoothing after dirac (in room) . Yeah it is very far from flat but it sounds great tbh. I will put some more effort into it once the horns are smooth and painted and there is a pair of them.
I also time aligned each driver in the hypex amp and you can't tell sound is coming from the speakers it's just floating in space and sounds very real.
Green is your horn design mabat and purple is the PAP wood horn
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Having printet 5 A520 horns now, each with different kinds of infill and number of outer walls (and different slicing - i really do prefer dowels to the original slice) I have come to the conclusion that the horn needs some kind of damping of bell modes. Need to measure the resonances but just tapping the horn it sounds too lively. This may just be me and my audiophile nevrosia. But even as the horn with 5 outer layers and 15% gyroid infill seems to have some kind of "deadish" quality, it still does not feel inert nor "dead" enough. Haha, hows that for beeing subjective.
Having prepared a horn for filling with epoxy but really not looking forward to the process I realized that having focused only on fillling the petals and center piece made me blind for the obvious solution. To make pockets for damping material. The standard way of dampening plinths for record players.
My next A520 will have petals looking like this. Its a A520 sliced in 6. Will fill the cavities with epoxy granite or maybe just plain silicon chaulk with steel shots. Printing for maximum stiffnes and with this way of damping I expect the horn to feel inert and "dead". Using the word "feel" twice now I think I may have gotten expelled from that other forum..
Having prepared a horn for filling with epoxy but really not looking forward to the process I realized that having focused only on fillling the petals and center piece made me blind for the obvious solution. To make pockets for damping material. The standard way of dampening plinths for record players.
My next A520 will have petals looking like this. Its a A520 sliced in 6. Will fill the cavities with epoxy granite or maybe just plain silicon chaulk with steel shots. Printing for maximum stiffnes and with this way of damping I expect the horn to feel inert and "dead". Using the word "feel" twice now I think I may have gotten expelled from that other forum..
actually, it is quite good. With lowering bottom part (below 40) and couple of eq touch in upper range it will come to very flat freq resp. check the phase and play with delays as/if needed and you are in audiorvana. do not wory about small roughnesses, nobody can hear it, specially with music in stereo.
Should be very easy with Hypex
Yeah im wondering if i need to put my mid range into inverse.
Is the dip at 2-3khz perhaps because I have not removed the mesh on my CD? I see you guys have been doing that but I wasnt super keen to cut it up.
Is the dip at 2-3khz perhaps because I have not removed the mesh on my CD? I see you guys have been doing that but I wasnt super keen to cut it up.
Yeah interesting idea - You could do a lot of damping with silicon I would think - assuming it bonds well to the plastic.
For what it is worth I can't hear any resonances. (with music) But I do agree the cones with 15% infill don't seem to be as solid as one might like.
I just went tapping on it vs tapping on my wood horn and the plastic horn is deader than the wood one. Surprising to me but it's probably the glue between the petals.
Cubic infill might be deader as a choice of infill since it is all sealed pockets of air? Not sure how that would play out. I believe there was a youtube person testing this and found very little differences in infill and thickness.
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Little bit of PEQ on the mini dsp and that whole 2k area is fixed up easily. Don't seem to be able to do anything about the 55hz area probably need room treatment
What if the below dip is there because the horn and the woofer(s) are cancelling each other, i.e. they are not well in phase?
What do you think can the Dirac do? It will only increase the voltage in that region. Instead of solving the issue it will only drive the transducers harder.
Then you come and say that the driver needs to be crossed higher... Well, when treated like this it probably does 🙂
What do you think can the Dirac do? It will only increase the voltage in that region. Instead of solving the issue it will only drive the transducers harder.
Then you come and say that the driver needs to be crossed higher... Well, when treated like this it probably does 🙂
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Yes - one need to first linearise (EQ) the drivers well in their (to be) stop bands before applying the crossover - at least 1 octave - so when bass is flat up to 2x XO and CD is flat down to XO/2, apply the XO - if no severe resonances etc is present the minimum phase situation will see to that the acoustic phase will cooperate and XO will work as intended.
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That is not necessary but one must simply design the crossover properly, having all this data at the input. Then it's just a fun time with a simulator.
And did I mention that the sources also have some radiation patterns?
And did I mention that the sources also have some radiation patterns?