hey trev,
If you don't have the $ to get a Digital camera why don't you go pick up a KODAK Plus Digital camera...I had to pick one up on vacation because i left my Olympus 5.1mp at home. There only $8.00 US and the photo's are put to disk...It may not be a high MP Resolution but I have seen them take some pretty good photo's....
Just a thought,
lesko
🙂
If you don't have the $ to get a Digital camera why don't you go pick up a KODAK Plus Digital camera...I had to pick one up on vacation because i left my Olympus 5.1mp at home. There only $8.00 US and the photo's are put to disk...It may not be a high MP Resolution but I have seen them take some pretty good photo's....
Just a thought,
lesko
🙂
Heya Lesco, thats a good idea, not sure if someone else mentioed that before to me with a cheap throw away cam but i think they did. The only thing that may not make them work is their small lens or shutter speed, but for 8bux its cheap to try, ill see what i can find here and try to take a shot lol, ive got a webcam btw, thats sensitive but the reso is worse lol.
Trev
Trev
Trev,
Would you mind posting a link where I could get a 250 watt bulb with the color temp around 5000k and a CRI of 90 in the US?
Also man, what do you invent stuff for a living?
Sam
Would you mind posting a link where I could get a 250 watt bulb with the color temp around 5000k and a CRI of 90 in the US?
Also man, what do you invent stuff for a living?
Sam
heya buddy im not in the us so i dont have any links to that bulb as of yet, try to run up a search for HQI-TSD and thats the right bulb for the job. The D stands for daylight, and thats the colour we want (5100k), its also made by osram and the hqi range of bulbs from osram have the cri90 in the hqi range.
As for inventing stuff for a living, no i dont, but i could lol.
Trev🙂
As for inventing stuff for a living, no i dont, but i could lol.
Trev🙂
Trev,
I do not think that any of the cheap digital cameras could really give you a good low light picture. But if you have an old 35 mm SLR you can take a timed exposure on a cheap tripod and have it developed to CD for a small fee. If you don't get the pictures developed on paper it is quite cheap.
Just set up the camera on the tripod and freeze the frame of the DVD and then set the timed shutter for about 1\2 second. You could try a one second exposure and various times until you get the right time.
Also becasue everyone is getting digital cameras you should be able to buy a 35mm SLR very inexpensively used. Or a friend is bound to have one. You need one that can do a timed exposure and nearly every decent SLR can even the inexpensive ones can.
Hezz
I do not think that any of the cheap digital cameras could really give you a good low light picture. But if you have an old 35 mm SLR you can take a timed exposure on a cheap tripod and have it developed to CD for a small fee. If you don't get the pictures developed on paper it is quite cheap.
Just set up the camera on the tripod and freeze the frame of the DVD and then set the timed shutter for about 1\2 second. You could try a one second exposure and various times until you get the right time.
Also becasue everyone is getting digital cameras you should be able to buy a 35mm SLR very inexpensively used. Or a friend is bound to have one. You need one that can do a timed exposure and nearly every decent SLR can even the inexpensive ones can.
Hezz
Hezz said:
Totally agreed hezz, the lenses in most digital cameras are far too small to let enough light in for a decent low light environment shot, that and shutter times. Im thinking in the slr route seriously as the possibilities on those cams are also endless, i think with an slr cam, the screen shots will be the most realistic compared to a digital cam in the same price range.
btw im hitting you with an email with my adress.
Trev
Trev,
I'll be waiting to hear from you in the mean time here is some more information on the camera. This is a good inexpensive alternative to a high resolution digital camera. In fact this will out do the best digital camera with the right combination of film and technique.
An inexpensive 35 mm SLR with a 50 mm fixed FL lens can be had new for about 130 USD. Keep in mind that this is for a new camera. You might be able to find one on ebay for 20 - 50 USD or at a pawn shop.
You will need a little cable shutter release for about 5 - 10 USD to take a timed exposure and a tripod. Tripods range from 20 - 200 USD and 20 dollar one would be fine for occasional use.
In the future if you want to take really high end pictures you can upgrade the lens to a higher quality one with a zoom feature. The nice thing about this 50 mm fixed lens though is that it has a wide aperture for letting in a lot of light.
http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/main_item.asp?id=964589914&rf=bz&dfdate=05_07_2004#fs
Here is a link to this vivatar camera with an included lens.
Hezz
I'll be waiting to hear from you in the mean time here is some more information on the camera. This is a good inexpensive alternative to a high resolution digital camera. In fact this will out do the best digital camera with the right combination of film and technique.
An inexpensive 35 mm SLR with a 50 mm fixed FL lens can be had new for about 130 USD. Keep in mind that this is for a new camera. You might be able to find one on ebay for 20 - 50 USD or at a pawn shop.
You will need a little cable shutter release for about 5 - 10 USD to take a timed exposure and a tripod. Tripods range from 20 - 200 USD and 20 dollar one would be fine for occasional use.
In the future if you want to take really high end pictures you can upgrade the lens to a higher quality one with a zoom feature. The nice thing about this 50 mm fixed lens though is that it has a wide aperture for letting in a lot of light.
http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/main_item.asp?id=964589914&rf=bz&dfdate=05_07_2004#fs
Here is a link to this vivatar camera with an included lens.
Hezz
Attachments
bulb and reflectors
I have the lilliput 7" vga lcd and will be using the same copy lens as ace. I've been trying to narrow down my bulb and reflector selection, and I think that I will use the 150w, 4000k, medium base bulb from a local store. I also plan to use the halo reflector, from home depot, mentioned in another thread. My design is similar to ace's except the bulb will have the ability to move in azmith and elevation inside the reflector. the reason for this ability is to " focus" the bulbs light output and hot-spotsin the reflector similar to the movie theatre projectors I have worked with. The assembly is fairly simple to set up and I will post the design upon competion. However, I have not begun construction yet contingent on input of this idea from those of you with more diy experience. Please let me know of your opinions on this matter, thank you!
I have the lilliput 7" vga lcd and will be using the same copy lens as ace. I've been trying to narrow down my bulb and reflector selection, and I think that I will use the 150w, 4000k, medium base bulb from a local store. I also plan to use the halo reflector, from home depot, mentioned in another thread. My design is similar to ace's except the bulb will have the ability to move in azmith and elevation inside the reflector. the reason for this ability is to " focus" the bulbs light output and hot-spotsin the reflector similar to the movie theatre projectors I have worked with. The assembly is fairly simple to set up and I will post the design upon competion. However, I have not begun construction yet contingent on input of this idea from those of you with more diy experience. Please let me know of your opinions on this matter, thank you!
Re: bulb and reflectors
Heya buddy, your design is fine, but its somthing that i would use for testing purposes to get the distance to bulb from the reflector right, its not somthing that has to be ajusted at all once you have the corrrect position recorded in the proto model, if you place the bulbs arc at the focal of the reflector, you shouldnt have any problem with hot spots.
Trev
spectreag said:
Heya buddy, your design is fine, but its somthing that i would use for testing purposes to get the distance to bulb from the reflector right, its not somthing that has to be ajusted at all once you have the corrrect position recorded in the proto model, if you place the bulbs arc at the focal of the reflector, you shouldnt have any problem with hot spots.
Trev
Thanks for the input, I was thinking along the lines of bulb life of film projectors and forgot that the life on my bulb is much longer. The other questions that I have are, around what temperature will the light box be with a 150w bulb? How effective is plexi at blocking uv?
i also reamin with a question about temps...
How hot does it get inside the lightbox? and between lightbox and fresnel?
And what about on the lcd? :-D
How hot may these things get anyway?
Tnx
Promy
How hot does it get inside the lightbox? and between lightbox and fresnel?
And what about on the lcd? :-D
How hot may these things get anyway?
Tnx
Promy
Hi Trev!
How are things going! Could you give us a small update...
Would be great to hear something about your improvements!
Greetings from an eagerly 'follower' of this thread - Keep up the good work!!
Zerbos
How are things going! Could you give us a small update...
Would be great to hear something about your improvements!
Greetings from an eagerly 'follower' of this thread - Keep up the good work!!
Zerbos
Heya buddy, the light box runs warm to the touch, ive got a new design on it at the moment that should make it run bearly warm, ill be doing that very soon and that design will be in the plans for the 250w design, i feel there is no need to impliment this system into the 150w design.
Plexi does block uv well, but it depends on what grade you get, i dont use plexi to block uv noe glass as the bulbs im using have the uv filter built in, and this makes things alot easier and cheaper.
Trev
promy said:
Heya promy, the light box inside gets hot, it is designed this way to heat the air that is flowing through it so we have a passive cooling afect, after the condenser not very hot at all, the frensel runs just warm, but the lcd does run fairly warm without cooling as the polarisers are working with the light wich creates heat, the rest stays cold. With cooling on the lcd the lcd just gets slightly warm to the touch, without the cooling on the lcd, it gets hot, id says about 50c with the 250w hqi.
All things in the projector have been tested red hot, and it still worked fine, but as we dont want red hot temps we impliment the cooling.
Trev
zerbos said:
Heya Zerbos, i was trying to hold off abit on the updates, but yeah its been a while as ive been trying to find an oem lens for the light engine modd. I do have a few modds going on right now, i dont want to have to keep upgrading the unit once its done otherwise there will be plans all over the place lol.
The light engine modd gives us roughly 25 - 40% of more light from the light engine with a finley tuned condenser, this is another lens and im waiting for it to arive so i can finalise the extra light design, is it worth it? yep forsure.
I do have another modd that im looking at now, it is at the back of the light engine and it directs us more light from the bulb through the condenser, but at the moment this only seems suitible on the cdm-t as the 250w is eating condensers galore lol. We mannage to use about 80% of our light with this method and yeals us a very bright picture, but as i said im stiull working on it because of heat issues on the condenser from the 250w.
Ive also been playing with pyramid designs for a while and found out some interesting data on them.
The machined feet should be here soon so i can finnish the side poles and the overal fixture of the casing, other then that not much more has been going on other then a lack of time on things, but i can ausure you, once i get this new modd sorted out all things are good to go. Ill have a source for you guys to get the barrel fan shortly too and a sorce for the feet, oh and btw the mirror is in lol.
Ill keep you guys uptaded with another update soon.
Trev
Hi
Hi ace, bfourcade, amazed at your engineering abilities, love your work man and the rest of the skilled peeps in here,
I've reached the point i'm ready to build my projector, thing is in the uk here, i'm finding it hard to fing the parts, i hear you supply parts, i'm looking to get a good bright image, using a lilliput 7" LCD,
i'm having trouble comprehending all the different len's and condensers people are using, and need to know which are ideal, and where to get them from.
Please let me know if you can supply me with these,
cheers
Hi ace, bfourcade, amazed at your engineering abilities, love your work man and the rest of the skilled peeps in here,
I've reached the point i'm ready to build my projector, thing is in the uk here, i'm finding it hard to fing the parts, i hear you supply parts, i'm looking to get a good bright image, using a lilliput 7" LCD,
i'm having trouble comprehending all the different len's and condensers people are using, and need to know which are ideal, and where to get them from.
Please let me know if you can supply me with these,
cheers
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