dewil said:Hell, I'm doomed....got everything but lamp, and now I found out I can't use under 250W...
Well here it is 220 volt.
I got another source here locally ACE, but it's different from any of your lamp, wonder if this is okay to use http://www.eur.lighting.philips.com/int_en/oem/ca/general/products/catalogue/Chapter_04/5243s.pdf
I intend to use HPI-T PLUS 400W. The problem is I can't get the ARC size info, and the CRI is only 65. But I guess that might not be a problem coz brainchild also uses EYE lamp which has CRI of 65 also. Right ?? Right ?? Please help
Yeah it will also run on 220v lol, it should be fine, we have a 3 - 10% varience in voltage threshold on ballasts so it will be ok.
About brainchilds bulb, if you dont want to use a condenser then its fine, forget about cri for now, all it is, is just a ratio on how real colours look to normal daylight, its like a light rendering parameter, ofcourse a high cri means much more vivid colours then a low one, but its not overly important and its not a must. All of my bulbs are 90cri and up so i cant realy coment on the difference between the low and high cri bulbs, but its not overly important.
The main thing to worry about is the lumen output, sure brainchilds bulb packs a punch, but we have a problem, because of its size it will be difficult to catch and dirrect the light to the lcd panel in an eficient manner, therfore we go for a smaller diameter bulb so we can direct the light much more eficently through the lcd, with a 400w bulb, personally i wouldnt be too fussed about a condenser, only some of us want the best performance from our bulb and not to waste light, besure that a 400w bulb will yeald you a bright image.
I cant get into the link you supplied about your bulb so maybe a screen shot might do it as most of those catalogs run through their own server and dont alow the links to work.
Btw, the arc size on a 400w lamp is typical of 25mm.
Trev
Yeah that bulbs fine buddy, its not bad actually i wouldnt mine one myself for testing lol, its also a good low profile bulb so we could use a condenser and a reflector with that, i say go for it bud.🙂
Just for interest, here is the spec sheet on the new 250w bulb i just got.
Trev
Just for interest, here is the spec sheet on the new 250w bulb i just got.
Trev
Attachments
ALLRIGHT master ACE has said OK. Then I'll go for it. 😀
Last question regarding this bulb ace. The center size that emits the light is only 40mm on this bulb, so can I use my 60mm condenser for this thing ?
Last question regarding this bulb ace. The center size that emits the light is only 40mm on this bulb, so can I use my 60mm condenser for this thing ?
Its abit small lol, u can, but better to use somthing thats about 100mm - 150mm with a focal the same as your frensel, that wont be hard to find, and will yeal great results.
Trev
If u think it's too small, do you suggest that I should just forget the condensor idea and just place a reflector ? HHmm....I'm thingking about a soup laddle 😉 Or do you have another idea ? Parabolic, eliptical maybe ? Thanks A LOT buddy !
PS: SORRY for kinda hijacking your thread ACE
PS: SORRY for kinda hijacking your thread ACE
okay i am new to the forum and really want to build one of these projectors. I know that this is probably in the post but after reading 25 pages of it i am having a hard time continuing the reading. I was wondering if you(ace3000) have the plans for this projector for sell along with the parts like you were talking about. I also emailed you and then figured that i should have posted this in here first instead. Again i am very intereste in doing this and love building things myself instead of buying them.
ps I saw that someone was interested in building a small jet out of a car turbo. I had a friend that built one in my sophmore year. Pretty cool but he never got it spun up fast enough becuase has turbo bearings were shot.
Anyway enough with my rablings and thanks for any help you can give. Also great job on the build love the design.
ps I saw that someone was interested in building a small jet out of a car turbo. I had a friend that built one in my sophmore year. Pretty cool but he never got it spun up fast enough becuase has turbo bearings were shot.
Anyway enough with my rablings and thanks for any help you can give. Also great job on the build love the design.
He is going to be selling the plans soon, he also sells the parts, but his website is down at the moment, but he will be able to give you prices through email, that's how he organises sales anyway.
Trev,
I sent you an e-mail a while ago about a possible trade for parts. Did you get the message?
Hezz
I sent you an e-mail a while ago about a possible trade for parts. Did you get the message?
Hezz
Heya dewil, use the center one buddy as it will give you a shorter focal length, oh yeah guys, thats right, those cheap polished bowls have a focal length too lol.
Trev
trailsnail85 said:
Heya buddy, ya i got ya email, sorry for not getting onto answering it, been realy busy here, ill hit you back with an email asap.
Regarding the turbo jet engine, you can get and should use jet engine oil on the bearings, you will need to spin that turbo upto 25000rpm+ before it will fire up, somtimes a boosted turbo will fire at a lower speed, ive got a buddy in australia who made one out a small turbo that was boosted upto 14pounds, he made a small jet engine with that, he mannaged to get over 120000rpm out of it before it melted lol. the one im looking at making is a turbo from a D12 bulldozer and aiming for the same power as a jet engine in a hellicopter, thinking in coupling it upto a shaft and putting it in a very small custom speed boat for kicks, but the shaft system isnt cheap.
Trev
Ok guys a small update, the 250w has been running and all is good, it uses the same parts, and the optics are all the same, the only diff is the light box as it has been modified to take the extra heat and room.
The lcd on the new fan runs very cool, its got a speed controller on it and ive had to slow it down due to the fact it pushes too much air through the lcd vent, the high velocity vent also works well. With this fan on full speed air flows through that vent at about 40mph and is stone cold when it comes out of the other end, the lcd gets stone cold too, but a stone cold lcd runs darker then a slightly warm lcd so ive wound the speed down for that reason and for the sake of noise as this fan is abit noisy when running at full speed. With a small modd we can make this thermally controlled so we dont have to contrall anything regarding that fan, or we could set it to be set at a certain speed with a resistor and do away with the speed controller, small modds for the future.
The image is brighter no doubt, i tried to take a screen shot but yeah im buying a new cam i think as this cam is so crap its not funny lol, the image is bright as, but the cam wont take it well at all and imo after fooling with this light, im half blind lol so it is bright forsure.
In regards in what the projector can handle, well it can take a 150w cdm-t no probs at all, it can take the 250w no probs at all, and maybe if i decide to test it or not a 400w to fit in the place of the 250w, with that being said 400watts is another 150w of heat so if anyone tries this before me on this light engine, use extreme caution.
The colour temp is also way better, im using a colour temp of 5100k unlike the cdm-t that has the 4200k, and oh my, the colours realy stand out like you wouldnt belive it, i highly recomend to get the 250w HQI-TSD bulb that im using, it may cost a little more then the diylabs bulb but this bulb has a uv filter, its 5100k, the cri is 90 and has a life of 12k hrs although i have been told before its 20khrs im not overly sure.
If i can find a HQI-TS bulb with a colour of 6000k, ill try that next as that would be the ultimate colour temp for this lcd, a rule to follow for the right colour reproduction and to get more acurate specs as in contrast and colour is to use the same colour temp as your backlight, as a different colour temp will change the contrast and colours of your lcd, beleive me, ive seen the diff.
Other things ive been doing is fooling with the light engine to do a few tests on things, making sure we are getting the full amount of light we possibly can with this light engine, ive been over it over a douzen times this week and its definatley at its peak. Ill be making a mirror mount very shortly and a new ballast box. At the moment im getting the top and bottom feet machined and also the side poles, all will be self aligning so there is no need for any ajustment.
Just a small note on the design of this projector, i have said before to be very acurate, the reason i mainly say this is the fact ive designed it so you dont have to ajust anything, if you build it to the plan as close as possible to the size, you should be able to just build it and it will work first hand with the only thing that needs to be ajusted is the mirror, (3 screws), ive drawn the light box up for the 250w first hand and it works flawless, thats the kind of thing u guys will have if you follow the plans and are acurate. It wont be too long before this unit is done and the plans ready for release, so guys get your tools out from the basement lol.
Trev
The lcd on the new fan runs very cool, its got a speed controller on it and ive had to slow it down due to the fact it pushes too much air through the lcd vent, the high velocity vent also works well. With this fan on full speed air flows through that vent at about 40mph and is stone cold when it comes out of the other end, the lcd gets stone cold too, but a stone cold lcd runs darker then a slightly warm lcd so ive wound the speed down for that reason and for the sake of noise as this fan is abit noisy when running at full speed. With a small modd we can make this thermally controlled so we dont have to contrall anything regarding that fan, or we could set it to be set at a certain speed with a resistor and do away with the speed controller, small modds for the future.
The image is brighter no doubt, i tried to take a screen shot but yeah im buying a new cam i think as this cam is so crap its not funny lol, the image is bright as, but the cam wont take it well at all and imo after fooling with this light, im half blind lol so it is bright forsure.
In regards in what the projector can handle, well it can take a 150w cdm-t no probs at all, it can take the 250w no probs at all, and maybe if i decide to test it or not a 400w to fit in the place of the 250w, with that being said 400watts is another 150w of heat so if anyone tries this before me on this light engine, use extreme caution.
The colour temp is also way better, im using a colour temp of 5100k unlike the cdm-t that has the 4200k, and oh my, the colours realy stand out like you wouldnt belive it, i highly recomend to get the 250w HQI-TSD bulb that im using, it may cost a little more then the diylabs bulb but this bulb has a uv filter, its 5100k, the cri is 90 and has a life of 12k hrs although i have been told before its 20khrs im not overly sure.
If i can find a HQI-TS bulb with a colour of 6000k, ill try that next as that would be the ultimate colour temp for this lcd, a rule to follow for the right colour reproduction and to get more acurate specs as in contrast and colour is to use the same colour temp as your backlight, as a different colour temp will change the contrast and colours of your lcd, beleive me, ive seen the diff.
Other things ive been doing is fooling with the light engine to do a few tests on things, making sure we are getting the full amount of light we possibly can with this light engine, ive been over it over a douzen times this week and its definatley at its peak. Ill be making a mirror mount very shortly and a new ballast box. At the moment im getting the top and bottom feet machined and also the side poles, all will be self aligning so there is no need for any ajustment.
Just a small note on the design of this projector, i have said before to be very acurate, the reason i mainly say this is the fact ive designed it so you dont have to ajust anything, if you build it to the plan as close as possible to the size, you should be able to just build it and it will work first hand with the only thing that needs to be ajusted is the mirror, (3 screws), ive drawn the light box up for the 250w first hand and it works flawless, thats the kind of thing u guys will have if you follow the plans and are acurate. It wont be too long before this unit is done and the plans ready for release, so guys get your tools out from the basement lol.
Trev
hey trev,
wow, a new cam. so plz show the results.
have you ever taken in your account to use an ir-filter?
mounted nearby the condensor it reduces the temp of the lcd.
i use one in my lilliput setup. if you do, i think a second blower isn't necessary anymore in your setup. another advantage: it'll extend the lifetime of the lcd coz the blue color wont fade out as it normally do.
ief
wow, a new cam. so plz show the results.
have you ever taken in your account to use an ir-filter?
mounted nearby the condensor it reduces the temp of the lcd.
i use one in my lilliput setup. if you do, i think a second blower isn't necessary anymore in your setup. another advantage: it'll extend the lifetime of the lcd coz the blue color wont fade out as it normally do.
ief
I_eat_flowers said:
Lol i dont have a new cam yet, ill have to wait until i have some more money as they arent cheap.
Ive got ir filter here, and im only using 1 blower fan, ir filter doesnt stop all of the heat, not enough in our case and its an added cost, ir filter also wont stop the blue colour pigment fading in the lcd, uv is the culprit for killing the colours, ir is harmless to colours and only contains heat. A cold mirror is a better choice as they are far more effective.
Trev
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