Guys, small update, the 250w light box is coming along nicley, its not finnished but it just fits, (the important thing), we will soon see how it performs in about 2days. All optics are spot on and it will be bright, ive made a few changes to the structure of the box and the cooling too, to take the extra heat. Right now im just hard wiring the ballast as its too late to go cutting steel with the dremel lol.
Trev
Trev
I must say that my copy lens arrived the other day, I was pleased about how long it took to get here, I asked them to send surface and it was here in just over a week, thats pretty good (there is a small prob with it but surplesshed has realy good and asking very quickly.
Not just waiting for Lcd and light then I can make my projector
Not just waiting for Lcd and light then I can make my projector

Hey ACE, just a quick question about the Fuji lens you're using. I'm building a projector using 15" LCD. I just realize that I don't have any condenser that is big enough to be used. The biggest I have is only 6cm in diameter. Do you think if I disassemble that Fujinon I could get a good enough condenser ? And also how do you disassemble it anyway ? Any advice ACE ?? Thanks buddy !
But the 6cm diameter condenser will be fine since you should use in in-front of your light bulb, maybe it won't work with a 400w mogul based bulb, but it will be fine with a hqi, but the condenser will need to be a tempered one because it will be placed very close to the bulb.
Yep bobharry, that's what I thought also at the first time. I found out by conducting a test yesterday, or maybe my test was wrong ? You tell me......
Yesterday I was testing my short FL fresnel about 8.5" FL. This one goes between the lamp and the LCD. Because I don't have my lamp yet, I decided to use my small flashlight as the light source, the diameter of the flashligh is about 5cm. With no condenser I manage to get a full square image produces by the fresnel at about 8.5" distance between the flashlight and the fresnel. What happen is after I put the condenser in front of the flash light (less then 1cm away), the square image is gone. There was only round image. And no matter how I move the light source closer or farther away it still produces the round image. What's with that ? Am I wrong to say that my condenser wont work or is it wrong to judge that it won't work because I've only tried it using a flashlight not with the HQI ? Please advise 🙁
Yesterday I was testing my short FL fresnel about 8.5" FL. This one goes between the lamp and the LCD. Because I don't have my lamp yet, I decided to use my small flashlight as the light source, the diameter of the flashligh is about 5cm. With no condenser I manage to get a full square image produces by the fresnel at about 8.5" distance between the flashlight and the fresnel. What happen is after I put the condenser in front of the flash light (less then 1cm away), the square image is gone. There was only round image. And no matter how I move the light source closer or farther away it still produces the round image. What's with that ? Am I wrong to say that my condenser wont work or is it wrong to judge that it won't work because I've only tried it using a flashlight not with the HQI ? Please advise 🙁
Heya Dewil, 60mm should be fine for a condenser, it sounds about right, just make sure its got a high power rating or a short focal, that size should be good upto the 250w hqi bulb.
The reason the test you did didnt work is because the flashlights reflector is parabolic, it needs to be shperical or eliptical to be able to use a condenser. Parabolic reflectors dont work, and will not work with a condenser unless you use a multi lens aray.
The best thing to do is to take the light bulb out of the torch and test your condenser with that, without the parabolic reflector, it will work then.
Trev
The reason the test you did didnt work is because the flashlights reflector is parabolic, it needs to be shperical or eliptical to be able to use a condenser. Parabolic reflectors dont work, and will not work with a condenser unless you use a multi lens aray.
The best thing to do is to take the light bulb out of the torch and test your condenser with that, without the parabolic reflector, it will work then.
Trev
For a large panel LCD a 60mm condenser, will not work. You need a long focal length... not a short one. Even if you manage to focus on the condenser and get a square image you'll have dim corners. If you have one of the little 7 inchers... then a 60mm would be fine. Also, the Fujinon will not work with a large panel LCD. Focal length is too short.
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
For a large panel LCD a 60mm condenser, will not work. You need a long focal length... not a short one. Even if you manage to focus on the condenser and get a square image you'll have dim corners. If you have one of the little 7 inchers... then a 60mm would be fine. Also, the Fujinon will not work with a large panel LCD. Focal length is too short.
Ive got condensers here with a focal of 60mm and a diameter of 40mm from ohp,s, from my tests the shorter the focal the better, the image is brighter and u have less problems with the corners then a long focal condenser. The power factor is the most important factor, not so much the focal in condensers remember jcb? also the size of the condenser doesnt matter with a point source as the frensels is very capable of covering its self easily with just a small point. The size does matter depending on your lights radiated light pattern, the wider the lights pattern is, the bigger condenser u need, the smaller, the smaller you need, so size isnt such a big factor in a condenser, its only for the light. Ring edmunds, they will say the same thing, thats where this info is from.
Your right about the copy lens, i dont think it will work on a 15inch panel either.
Trev
From my testing with large panels, the longer the focal, the wider the diameter the better when it comes to condensers... sorry ace. Shorter focals dont and wont throw as wide.
At this point I dont care what anyone says, I'll SHOW you if you'd like 🙂
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
At this point I dont care what anyone says, I'll SHOW you if you'd like 🙂
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
From my testing with large panels, the longer the focal, the wider the diameter the better when it comes to condensers... sorry ace. Shorter focals dont and wont throw as wide.
The longer the focal the less power the lens has, the closer the the condenser is to the bulb the wider the beam becomes, how do you expect to have a bright beam of light with a condenser that has nerly no power with a 150mm focal and with it being so close to the light? you cant and its not as condensed.
Btw i tested mine on a 12inch frensel not one at 7inches before i cut it down. I have 13 different condensers here all have been tested on a 12inch frensel and those was my findings , and what Edmund optics told me was actually true in my findings.
If you are using a short focal condenser and you have it at its focal sweet spot, (1/5 - 1/4 of the total focal), and if the beam isnt wide enough for the corners of the lcd, then ajust the frensel, if that dont work then get a bigger condenser with the same power and focal specs, otherwise your loosing light and the projector will have to be longer. I gave you a formula some time ago, take another look at it.
sorry ace. Shorter focals dont and wont throw as wide
Ya they do, just got to be closer to the bulb, (also depends on power), and with it having a shorter focal, the arc will be in its sweet spot so you will have also a brighter light and the right coverage area. Sure the longer focals throw longer,( and wider when close to the bulb, also depending on power), but they loose more light as u cant get it in its sweet spot on your size frensel, because the beam is too narrow at that point, it also messes with the frensels focal alot.
The right combination is having the focal of the condensel ever so slightly shorter then the frensels, im talking 5mm. That way you will have the arc at the condensers sweet spot, (full brightness), the condenser is focused to the frensel, you wont have dimm corners as the frensel is focused to the condenser at the right focal length and the frensel will be evenly lit at any size, thats what i did in this design and it works.
DCX lenses also make the corners dimmer and add aberations to the image, you should be using a PCX or a menscus lens as they are the right lens to use with a frensel, and have less aberations.
At the end of the day, if you place your head at the top frensels focal, you should see the entire arc right across the top frensel, you cant get any evener or brighter then that.
On a side note, the reflector also plays a big role in this, but lets save that for another day🙂
Trev
DCX lenses are made with identical convex surfaces. Aberrations such as coma, distortion and chromatic aberration almost exactly cancel out. single element lenses have more aberrations my friend.
I understand that shorter focal lengths are brighter... but first off you dont just place the condenser closer to the bulb and the shorter focals and size lenses from MY testing show that they dont throw enough light and PCX lenses will change the focal length of your fresnels.
But you know what, arguing with you is pointless and frankly a waste of my time. Show me some of your famous 'patented' results and then we'll talk 🙂
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
I understand that shorter focal lengths are brighter... but first off you dont just place the condenser closer to the bulb and the shorter focals and size lenses from MY testing show that they dont throw enough light and PCX lenses will change the focal length of your fresnels.
But you know what, arguing with you is pointless and frankly a waste of my time. Show me some of your famous 'patented' results and then we'll talk 🙂
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
PCX lenses will change the focal length of your fresnels.
All lenses do and will, take a DCX lens and use that as a projection lens, see how much aberations and distortion u get lol, same thing with the light, and that my son makes a huge diff to the pic quality, i used to use what your using , and imo they are crap, they screw the picture and cause the sides to go dim.
but first off you dont just place the condenser closer to the bulb
Why do you think i gave you that formula?
But you know what, arguing with you is pointless and frankly a waste of my time. Show me some of your famous 'patented' results and then we'll talk
LOL buy me a new cam and i will, if u cant talk and have to argue then dont post, its that simple, i told u my findings in a normal manner and u dont like them, sorry but its as real as they get, science doesnt lie, nor do i, or my eyes, and realy, if u want to learn, you would actually take into acount my findings so that you wouldnt have to fool around with the same testing yourself, saving you cash and time, and learning somthing along the way.
Trev
First of all I would like to say A BIG THANKS to MR. ACE and MR. JCBKLYNY for the advice
. Both gave me valuable info. But c'mon now, stay calm now, enough hostillity allready 😀 .
And as for the torch, I'll try using it without the reflector. Thanks again for both of you guyz.

And as for the torch, I'll try using it without the reflector. Thanks again for both of you guyz.
You dont read very well do you Ace, your one and only concern is looking like you know more. Well too bad friend. You may be able to read but you simply dont understand. Do your homework.... again. Please, for the love of God.
The Aberration info I posted about DCX lenses is in the Edmund tech info you love to refer to so much... READ IT!
Second, we're talking about condensers... not projection lenses. Take that PCX and use it as a projection lens and compare aberration... NUF SAID lol
I dont know what lenses you were using... but MY large format DCX lenses dont change the focal of my fresnels... sorry pal.
So do yourself a favor and try to 'school' someone else to make yourself look good. Cause your sticking your foot in your mouth real QUICK!
And cut the **** with the bad cam excuse, please! You turned it on and realized that your 'patiented' light engine wasn't so great after all... so you scrambled to stick a brighter lamp in there to save face. Go run the **** on someone else!
Just face it... you dont know everything and arent as good as you thought... just admit it 🙂
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
The Aberration info I posted about DCX lenses is in the Edmund tech info you love to refer to so much... READ IT!
Second, we're talking about condensers... not projection lenses. Take that PCX and use it as a projection lens and compare aberration... NUF SAID lol
I dont know what lenses you were using... but MY large format DCX lenses dont change the focal of my fresnels... sorry pal.
So do yourself a favor and try to 'school' someone else to make yourself look good. Cause your sticking your foot in your mouth real QUICK!
And cut the **** with the bad cam excuse, please! You turned it on and realized that your 'patiented' light engine wasn't so great after all... so you scrambled to stick a brighter lamp in there to save face. Go run the **** on someone else!
Just face it... you dont know everything and arent as good as you thought... just admit it 🙂
-JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
I dont know what lenses you were using... but MY large format DCX lenses dont change the focal of my fresnels... sorry pal.
Then they dont work, also i may sujest you do your home work as condenser lenses are projecting light.
For someone who owns a diy site, you realy are starting to get a bad name for yourself, you have a bad attitude who likes to asume things over people namley me, and thats why i want nothing to do with you, or your site.
.
And cut the **** with the bad cam excuse, please! You turned it on and realized that your 'patiented' light engine wasn't so great after all... so you scrambled to stick a brighter lamp in there to save face
LOL i cant read? read the thread and realise there is a choice of a 150w or 250w light engine in the plans, i cant exactly draw up a light box without lamp sizes now can i? also asure the unit is ok with heat, i think its prety obvious that it would be poor designing if it wasnt tested atleast for saftey reasons., (common sence). As for the cam, i can show you just how dark it is if youd like with a 100w light on in the room, cruser has seen it and can back me up on how non light sensitive it realy is.
Ok you can see me as a know all, fine, thats you and your entitled opinion, but what counts to people is the honest truth on how things work, what works with what, and to learn, also to save money and not to buy 10 lenses of each to see what works best. I dont lie in here jcb and never will, i dont have the cold heart to rip people off, and to give them false misleading confusing information, i try to help people out, i am who i am, take it or leave it.
Trev🙂
For someone who owns a diy site, you realy are starting to get a bad name for yourself, you have a bad attitude who likes to asume things over people namley me, and thats why i want nothing to do with you, or your site.
LMFAO!!!!! You want nothing to do with me or my site!? Bad memory now too huh 🙂 I kicked you out... then got an email asking why you weren't on the site anymore... would you care for me to post it and make it public?
Didn't think so.....Then you go to Cruser asking why your not there anymore....
Don't bother posting pics.... seen them already LOL.
Your always good for a laugh Ace 🙂
Love ya pal 🙂 or is it Mate where you are.
- JCB
www.diybuildergroup.com
Hey,
If you guys want to keep this up than please do it on your own time. I for one don't like to see this on a thread that is and should motivate people to diy. When i come to this thread and see there is a new post i look forward reading it thinking that there is more info that i can try or use, not this stuff.
The problem with email or im's is that it looses the human touch of communication and you no longer can here the tone or level of the other persons voice to desifer how the person is talking....
Keep up the good work you guys,
and don't let egos ruin what both of you have in common... "DIY"
thanks,
lesko
If you guys want to keep this up than please do it on your own time. I for one don't like to see this on a thread that is and should motivate people to diy. When i come to this thread and see there is a new post i look forward reading it thinking that there is more info that i can try or use, not this stuff.
The problem with email or im's is that it looses the human touch of communication and you no longer can here the tone or level of the other persons voice to desifer how the person is talking....
Keep up the good work you guys,
and don't let egos ruin what both of you have in common... "DIY"
thanks,
lesko
jcbklyny said:You dont read very well do you Ace, your one and only concern is looking like you know more. Well too bad friend. You may be able to read but you simply dont understand. Do your homework.... again. Please, for the love of God.
And cut the **** with the bad cam excuse, please! You turned it on and realized that your 'patiented' light engine wasn't so great after all... so you scrambled to stick a brighter lamp in there to save face. Go run the **** on someone else!
Just face it... you dont know everything and arent as good as you thought... just admit it 🙂
www.diybuildergroup.com

Mr. jcbklyny, please keep the voice down and try to use a polite language regardless of what you think of Ace. Skip all personal attacks please.
**** indicates that you use a non-acceptable language here.

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