well , since I forgot to instruct my amplifiers to reach melting and working temperature instantly , there is no use of puttin' da lid from start 
if possible , work one channel solo , then second channel
less things to take care of in same time
if you're not sure in things , better to read some tutorials around ....... even if some other amps are in question , there are similar general rules
and , I believe I already covered few things in this very thread
ask again , if needed
if possible , work one channel solo , then second channel
less things to take care of in same time
if you're not sure in things , better to read some tutorials around ....... even if some other amps are in question , there are similar general rules
and , I believe I already covered few things in this very thread
ask again , if needed
Trying to get the right voltage across R29, you mentioned 540mV should be the target to get 2A Iq. I can only get 530mV at working temperature (TP3 maxed). Offset still quite unstable, goes slightly above 30mV. What are the ranges I should still be good?
530mV is more than close enough ....... it's anyway arbitrary value ...... meaning - illustrating range , not exact figure
30mV of DC offset is more than good , if in temp. equilibrium , which also means - with top lid on
anything bellow 100mV is acceptable , less of course better
30mV of DC offset is more than good , if in temp. equilibrium , which also means - with top lid on
anything bellow 100mV is acceptable , less of course better
OK, thanks for clarification. Got stable offset ~10mV with closed lid at working temperature. Anything else or should it be OK to connect to preamp and speakers?
Woohooo it sings!!! 😀 No artifacts as of now, sounds amazing. Just need to get the case all sealed up and it's done. Will post few pictures later.
Thanks ZM for all the support! 🙂
Thanks ZM for all the support! 🙂
So next on my list was to build proper preamp to match the babelfish j. I know this is bit OT, but do you have any suggestions? Should I look for tube or SS could also work OK?
beg 6L6 and boyz- for Iron Pre .... to put it ASAP in Store
or go berserk .... and go for Iron Pumpkin
- I'm heavily biasedyou have more than enough info in few related threads to make your own iteration , if you are eager to
Thanks ! It's a lot of fun to hear it sing after spending quite a few hours building the thing🙂)
there is dedicated thread for IP here in Papaland
though , you need to read entire thread , things evolved from start
you can also check some scribblings in my blog
though , you need to read entire thread , things evolved from start
you can also check some scribblings in my blog
So I've been playing babelfish for a few evenings already. Haven't tested it yet with pair of Monitor Audio bookshelves, rather connected it to DIY full-range Alpair speakers. Before I had these speakers connected to class T tripath chinese amp so obviously the first impression was "whoa! where all these sounds come from" 😀 Bass is so much more tighter, more pronounced. I can hear every single recorded detail. It brought Alpairs to next level, though I think the bottleneck switched to speakers now 🙂)
Attaching few photos.. Still planning to get the front plate Babelfish J logo made, I think I seen it attached in this thread somewhere. Also need to allocate some proper space for the amp, otherwise it is serving now as good heater for the doggo.. 😀
Thanks ZM again for help! With the amount of information around it is quite a good project for the beginners.
Attaching few photos.. Still planning to get the front plate Babelfish J logo made, I think I seen it attached in this thread somewhere. Also need to allocate some proper space for the amp, otherwise it is serving now as good heater for the doggo.. 😀
Thanks ZM again for help! With the amount of information around it is quite a good project for the beginners.
Attachments
offset behavior
Dear all,
I had nothing to do this morning, so I checked the dc-offset of my Babelfish j, that I built about two years ago. That time the dc-Offset started at 800mV and sank to about 0 really slow.
Now it starts at 1,2 V and sinks as slowly as earlier to zero, as you can see in the diagram.
Will 1,2 V destroy the loudspeakers? What should I do to lower the initial offset?
Best regards, axel
Dear all,
I had nothing to do this morning, so I checked the dc-offset of my Babelfish j, that I built about two years ago. That time the dc-Offset started at 800mV and sank to about 0 really slow.
Now it starts at 1,2 V and sinks as slowly as earlier to zero, as you can see in the diagram.
Will 1,2 V destroy the loudspeakers? What should I do to lower the initial offset?
Best regards, axel
Attachments
is it 1V2 without load?
however , if cones of bass speakers are behaving , no worries
in other words - do not worry .... plenty of these still around , singing as always
however , if cones of bass speakers are behaving , no worries
in other words - do not worry .... plenty of these still around , singing as always
Thanks for your answer.
Yes, the Speakers are connected, and are playing music. Did a small test without Speakers: 1,4 V
Yes, the Speakers are connected, and are playing music. Did a small test without Speakers: 1,4 V