Yes but driven with external 3kVA transformer because it's laying around through 3' umbilical. It's overkill but maybe perfect to run 2 in monoblock. So trannie--dual rectifiers--onboard cap bank. I'll get pic after lunch.
I'm planning to run dual 35V 300VA Antek trannies to rectifiers to onboard cap banks. I have read that, in general, Class AB amps have good PSRR and don't require the massive cap banks that Class A amps typically do.
I am looking to place an order for either the original NP or the Prasi redesign of the AB100 amp board.
Price for either board looks to be ~$8-$10 each in 2mm board, 2oz copper, Blue mask, ENIG finish.
Anyone interested?
Which board would you be interested in, the original NP board or the Prasi board?
David.
Price for either board looks to be ~$8-$10 each in 2mm board, 2oz copper, Blue mask, ENIG finish.
Anyone interested?
Which board would you be interested in, the original NP board or the Prasi board?
David.
Hello guys,
if you are planning on manufacturing boards, then i can double up traces on top for high current traces. Also no need for any jumpers too.
so no need for 2 oz. Also dont go for ENIG..... HASL is much better for THT components, i read somewhere. ENIG is best for smd.
regards
prasi
i had designed the designed the original from purely diy perspective like Vrystat did.
if you are planning on manufacturing boards, then i can double up traces on top for high current traces. Also no need for any jumpers too.
so no need for 2 oz. Also dont go for ENIG..... HASL is much better for THT components, i read somewhere. ENIG is best for smd.
regards
prasi
i had designed the designed the original from purely diy perspective like Vrystat did.
Attachments
Ok so now seeing Prasi's board for first time. The output transistors now sit with the mounting hole directly under the board? Or is that just the way they are drawn for outline of component?
Hello guys,
if you are planning on manufacturing boards, then i can double up traces on top for high current traces. Also no need for any jumpers too.
so no need for 2 oz. Also dont go for ENIG..... HASL is much better for THT components, i read somewhere. ENIG is best for smd.
regards
prasi
i had designed the designed the original from purely diy perspective like Vrystat did.
And here I ordered 20 boards yesterday that are all ready in production,
2mm boards
2oz copper
ENIG finish
Boards were $150 CDN, Freight & taxes & duty were $100 CDN. (about $200 USD in total)
So looking at the prasi boards. Why would you bolt down the output trannies through the board itself? looks like you could have longterm issues with heating up the boards.
So looking at the prasi boards. Why would you bolt down the output trannies through the board itself? looks like you could have longterm issues with heating up the boards.
I don't know how long the leads are once you bend them to have the holes line up, but couldn't you use the longest board standoff possible so there is almost no leg left to cut off? This way in a vertical application, there is sufficient gap between the transistors and the board? Isn't he heat sink supposed to "attract" and drain off the heat, as opposed to the air gap would be less conductive?
These are just questions as I have no idea if they are correct....
yes you are correct DaveFred. to this effect, one could also use plastic washer / standoff between top of tranny and bottom of board.
I usually use clamping bars to secure the output trannies to the heatsink, but the pcb does a very good job. I have build other amps before that used this principle, works very good.
Because of the on board capacitors of the AB100 board, do you need to use a "normal" power supply with caps, or do you just need to convert AC to +/-DC with something like this,
AudioWind 30A Bridge Rectifier Module Board, for High-Power Audio Amplifier, MUR3060. AudioWind A-450, AudioWind MD-A450
between the transformer and the AB100 board?




AudioWind 30A Bridge Rectifier Module Board, for High-Power Audio Amplifier, MUR3060. AudioWind A-450, AudioWind MD-A450
between the transformer and the AB100 board?




Yeah that would work. i just think that it is much easier to use the square molded bridge rectifier with the center hole to bolt down.
Anybody know of a source for BPR56N 1 Ohm resistors? Digikey and Mouser don't seem to carry them and Chinese suppliers on eBay only seem to have up to .5 Ohm. Lots of examples of .1, .22, .33, etc.
What is the significance of using a Current Sense Resistor vs. a Wirewound Resistor as listed in jwjarch BOM?
Hello,
Trying to figure out a parts list for Prasi's board,
What Watt rating should the resistors (except R26-R33) on the PCB be?
What type of resistor should they be, Metal Film Resistor?
R26-R33 should be rated for how many Watts (options are 1, 2, 5, 10 watt)?
Thank you,
David.
Trying to figure out a parts list for Prasi's board,
What Watt rating should the resistors (except R26-R33) on the PCB be?
What type of resistor should they be, Metal Film Resistor?
R26-R33 should be rated for how many Watts (options are 1, 2, 5, 10 watt)?
Thank you,
David.
hello dave, 1/4W MFR for all small resistors would fit well including vishay cmf55.
The footprint for R26-R33 is 5W non-inductive BPR56 type resistor (https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIGgGEiFuj6vfH4rJZQ2pZWk=) , though you can fit 3-5W axial resistors vertically as well like vrystat did.
You can even fit 5W radial resistors like this https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIADHJK7P/GTqUsr0Ju6g/w0=
regards
prasi
EDIT1: i see that you have ordered single rail cap version. in that case better put some amount of smoothening caps after your rectifier.
EDIT2: A basic guide for parts selection attached.
The footprint for R26-R33 is 5W non-inductive BPR56 type resistor (https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIGgGEiFuj6vfH4rJZQ2pZWk=) , though you can fit 3-5W axial resistors vertically as well like vrystat did.
You can even fit 5W radial resistors like this https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIADHJK7P/GTqUsr0Ju6g/w0=
regards
prasi
EDIT1: i see that you have ordered single rail cap version. in that case better put some amount of smoothening caps after your rectifier.
EDIT2: A basic guide for parts selection attached.
Attachments
Last edited:
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