A Silbury Build

Dave is actually (forgive me) only partially correct. Cavity volume is indeed critical, but the proportions can in fact affect the details of behavior, less intuitively than many might expect, so I would actually go easy in this regard. Rectilinear form factors are not necessarily a bad thing, acoustically -it depends on their dimensions, and you'll recall that higher frequencies are rather more easily addressed than lower; with the small dimensions of an air cavity, relatively minor amounts of a decent damping material will kill what eigenmodes exist. In this case QRD type diffusers are OK so long as some damping is present, and there is not a dramatic shift in the average z axis location of the chamber rear panel.
 
Now I see this, I wish I did the same with my Victors I recently builded, but it's too late... Will be added to my next build for sure.
I could use my 3d printer and fill the print with foam or concrete.
What is the best diffuser frequencies to choose for ? Is 2k as start freq not on the high side?
Bottom end of these type of diffusers is established by well depth.. Keeping equal void volume behind the driver to the design would be ~1100 Hz with 15 cm max well depth.. There is a great calculator link posted above.. I looked at having these 3D printed but at $750 EACH in ABS, so using off-cuts for me it was.
 
Woden Design | Silbury

239 x 1827 x 398 mm (w x h x d)

I've one question. Is it possible to use Ikea's Blanda Matt as a speaker chamber ( https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/blanda-matt-serving-bowl-bamboo-20214340/ ) and then have a flat panel behind the speaker as a first part of the dual horn?

Silbury-3D[1].gif


This could permit to use the full volume behind with a single horizontal panel dividing the two horns, and prolong a bit the lenght of the horn itself, or shorten the height of the speaker.

What would it be the sonic impact of this?

Thanks,
Roberto
 
I am not sure quite what you are trying to illustrate, but a general rule is to keep the inner walls away from the back of the driver as much as possible.

dave
Yes, I see how that wasn't totally clear. I was thinking of scalloping the front baffle only with a 45 degree router bit and curved-template and not modifying the sidewalls which remain as designed. I have built the baffle at 28mm so there is more than enough mass to "carve into" with compromising glue-up to the side-walls.

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Sorry, my post wasn't clear. I meant: if I mirror a second horn in parallel with the first one, on top of the first one, total area of the output of the horn is twice, and the arc behind the loudspeaker is twice as wide. Is this giving a plus to the sound?