Thank you!
I have notice that the boxes doesnt make any progress anymore. They have been in room 2 weeks. I will spackle them again and then sand again. They are going right away to spackle with sprayer thin coat, then sand again and then polish.
I hope they are right now dryed enough! Because it was very big job to get them, how they look right now. Probably I will put some pictures in future to this site also🙂
I have notice that the boxes doesnt make any progress anymore. They have been in room 2 weeks. I will spackle them again and then sand again. They are going right away to spackle with sprayer thin coat, then sand again and then polish.
I hope they are right now dryed enough! Because it was very big job to get them, how they look right now. Probably I will put some pictures in future to this site also🙂
Here's another good site for finishing supplies.
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-porter-cable-intensive-shine-kit.html
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-porter-cable-intensive-shine-kit.html
I know this thread is a little dead, but I was hoping someone here might help answer my questions. I'm going to try this for the first time (on a test piece) and I wanted to make sure that I had my order and timing correct. I've never tried anything like this so bare with me, I'll have a lot of questions. I've read this entire thread from beginning to end twice, some of the questions have been asked before, but I wanted to make sure that they are accurate for my exact situation. I would greatly appreciate any help on the matter.
I'm using MDF, the plan is to get a reflective black finish. I'll be using spray cans for everything because I don't have access to anything else and I can't justify the cost for a one time project.
Sanding & Primer
I have the MDF, I sand with 400p sandpaper, clean thoroughly and start applying primer. The can of primer says "dries to the touch in 20min, apply second coat or Painters Touch top coat within 1 hour or after 24 hours.". It's recommended in the thread to stand every 2 coats of primer an clean the surface off.
Do I want to sand after it's "dried to the touch" in 20min? Do I wait 24 hours, sand, and then apply the next coat?
It says on the bottle "wet stand on metal and dry stand on wood", MDF would be more akin to wood, but I want to know what you guys would suggest? (i.e. should I wet sand the primer?) I'll be using 400p for the sanding at this stage.
Lacquer & Clear coat
After 10 coats of primer (as suggested in the thread) how long should I wait before starting the application of the black lacquer? Because the cans give slightly inconsistent results I was planing on doing 3 coats. Do I need to sand the lacquer at any point? If I do, wet or dry and what grit? It says "apply 2 or more coats a few minutes apart" & "Dries to the touch in 20min, to handle in 30min & fully dry in 24 hours", how long after the 3rd coat should I wait before applying a clear coat? Should I sand between applications of clear coat, would I use the 2000p? If so, between how many applications and wet or dry? Is 10 layers of the clear coat enough?
I know it's a lot of questions, I'm really sorry for all the uncertainty. I've put a lot of time and effort in this far and if a few questions could save me a lot of time and hassle, I'm going to make sure to ask them before I mess anything up. Any other tips or suggestions people might have will be more then welcomed. I'm a complete novice on this topic and I won't turn down good advice. Thanks again.
I'm using MDF, the plan is to get a reflective black finish. I'll be using spray cans for everything because I don't have access to anything else and I can't justify the cost for a one time project.
Sanding & Primer
I have the MDF, I sand with 400p sandpaper, clean thoroughly and start applying primer. The can of primer says "dries to the touch in 20min, apply second coat or Painters Touch top coat within 1 hour or after 24 hours.". It's recommended in the thread to stand every 2 coats of primer an clean the surface off.
Do I want to sand after it's "dried to the touch" in 20min? Do I wait 24 hours, sand, and then apply the next coat?
It says on the bottle "wet stand on metal and dry stand on wood", MDF would be more akin to wood, but I want to know what you guys would suggest? (i.e. should I wet sand the primer?) I'll be using 400p for the sanding at this stage.
Lacquer & Clear coat
After 10 coats of primer (as suggested in the thread) how long should I wait before starting the application of the black lacquer? Because the cans give slightly inconsistent results I was planing on doing 3 coats. Do I need to sand the lacquer at any point? If I do, wet or dry and what grit? It says "apply 2 or more coats a few minutes apart" & "Dries to the touch in 20min, to handle in 30min & fully dry in 24 hours", how long after the 3rd coat should I wait before applying a clear coat? Should I sand between applications of clear coat, would I use the 2000p? If so, between how many applications and wet or dry? Is 10 layers of the clear coat enough?
I know it's a lot of questions, I'm really sorry for all the uncertainty. I've put a lot of time and effort in this far and if a few questions could save me a lot of time and hassle, I'm going to make sure to ask them before I mess anything up. Any other tips or suggestions people might have will be more then welcomed. I'm a complete novice on this topic and I won't turn down good advice. Thanks again.
A few things I would do, 220 on the primer, dry sand, lightly tack off then a little wet sand, use 600 on the lacquer every 2 or 3 coats, wipe with cotton cloth, light tack, and as you get where your almost done finish off with wet 800, clear, then wet 1200, then rubbing compound not paste wax, and do all sanding using a block. I may have forgotten something but hope this helps
Kareface, so how did your painting project go? I'm done gluing 2 1cuft boxes and am about to paint with spray cans also as this will be my only paint job and can't see myself investing in air spraying equipment. Can you post the steps you've taken to do your job and some pics?
careface, have you started your paint project? do you have pics?
I'll be using spray cans on 2 1cuft mdf boxes soon
what do you mean by, "lightly tack off"? would it mean a light paint coverage spray?
http://www.thesuperhandyman.com/tackrag.html I also just noticed I left out the use of 400 grit between the 220 and the 600. You can also make you own.
Not so sure I'd use the DIY tack rag with a water-based paint as a follow up.
If any varnish were accidentally left behind, it would prevent the WB paint from adhering. If you're careful though it would work. Then again Tack rags are cheap, buy more than you need for the current job. I ziplock plastic bag my lightly used ones and they keep fresh for months.
Hey, Shin. are you back on the Forums again? If so, we missed you. If not, we miss you, and your always stunning work.
Ron
If any varnish were accidentally left behind, it would prevent the WB paint from adhering. If you're careful though it would work. Then again Tack rags are cheap, buy more than you need for the current job. I ziplock plastic bag my lightly used ones and they keep fresh for months.
Hey, Shin. are you back on the Forums again? If so, we missed you. If not, we miss you, and your always stunning work.
Ron
hi...i see no posts and comments up today but i'm hoping someone might be able to answer my question..i'm really newbie in this sort of things, i mean i've done quite few paitings but they're all small amature jobs. i saw some of pics in this thread and was truely inspired!! so started buying all these tools and i'm about to paint my tv hanger(will post some pics once it's done^^) ... but on the compressor... it says don't connect it to extension cord and it's 230v!!! i dont have dedicated electric circuit to provide 230v to this compressor... so my question is would it be ok to use regular transer to power up this thing??? the amperage on transer(at least it says)is higher than compressor's... meaning it's safe to use it that way??? can someone give me one clear answer????
Ok, the first thing I need to know is the meaning of "transer" - you used it twice and Google is not giving up any usable meaning for it.
transer.... i think the actual name to call it is transformer that can take 110v regular voltage to 230v
btw... i'll list the tools i bought for this project to prevent any misunderstding or confusion... hvlp gun, compressor, makita palm sander, cutting compound, cutting polish, and some automotive polish. will be painting it w/ either some of auto paint or waterborne urethan
Hi,
How big is the compressor, as in how many amps does it draw and how much air can it supply? Painting, especially with an HVLP gun uses a LOT of air.
The fact that it is a 230VAC unit says it pretty big and I wouldn't run it through a step up transformer. Better to have an electrician wire in a 230V circuit for it.
For paint you should stay away from the high VOC stuff. I know at the beginning of this thread Shinobiwan recommended lacquer but I would not, unless you have a proper spray booth and extensive training. Spraying high VOC paint outdoors seems ok until you are ratted out by your neighbours and find yourself face to face with an officer of the law.
That leaves water based finish and if you get the right ones, the results can be second to none.
How big is the compressor, as in how many amps does it draw and how much air can it supply? Painting, especially with an HVLP gun uses a LOT of air.
The fact that it is a 230VAC unit says it pretty big and I wouldn't run it through a step up transformer. Better to have an electrician wire in a 230V circuit for it.
For paint you should stay away from the high VOC stuff. I know at the beginning of this thread Shinobiwan recommended lacquer but I would not, unless you have a proper spray booth and extensive training. Spraying high VOC paint outdoors seems ok until you are ratted out by your neighbours and find yourself face to face with an officer of the law.
That leaves water based finish and if you get the right ones, the results can be second to none.
water base finishes aren't mother's milk either, so wear a respirator anyway.
they gotten better lately but I've run tests and comparisons of 3 major water base finish manufacturers to solvent base and water base finishes aren't there yet.
they gotten better lately but I've run tests and comparisons of 3 major water base finish manufacturers to solvent base and water base finishes aren't there yet.
Hey Roman,
Care to name the finishes you tested?
I've used Sherwin Williams and I wouldn't say they are lacking in any way. Their new AWX automotive paint is amazing.
BTW, it goes without saying that anytime you are going to spray, no matter what the product is (water or solvent based) you would use the proper safety equipment - fresh air source, full face respirator.
thx mj!! well... my compressor is just big enough to run the hvlp gun. It has 8.5 cfm and hvlp requires 3.5~7.5...and about lacquer... is it that difficult to achieve goal for first timers?? how is it different from waterbased one's...not ingredient wise but working process wise..
And about respirator.... yeah!! i definately expirenced the need of those^^(ended up w/ clogged up nosal and coughing my lungs out) so i bought one of those 3m one's..
neways... i called homedepot, and one of their employee told me that i can buy circuit breaker from them and install it to mine to get 230v(he was sure he could teach me how saying it's not impossible)...
finally about the right paint to choose.... which one do you guiz think i should get to achieve the "perfect piano finish"?? is "awx" thing from sherwin williams good 'nough??? if so which specific products do you recommend to use(like awx this and that)???
And about respirator.... yeah!! i definately expirenced the need of those^^(ended up w/ clogged up nosal and coughing my lungs out) so i bought one of those 3m one's..
neways... i called homedepot, and one of their employee told me that i can buy circuit breaker from them and install it to mine to get 230v(he was sure he could teach me how saying it's not impossible)...
finally about the right paint to choose.... which one do you guiz think i should get to achieve the "perfect piano finish"?? is "awx" thing from sherwin williams good 'nough??? if so which specific products do you recommend to use(like awx this and that)???
oh!!! btw...i'm going to build a disassembable painting booth myself w/ thickest pvc pipes and some sort of thick vinyl and tarps to prevent myself from getting all those unwanted particles in the air(hate em... never allows me to get good finish)
I've tested 3 products from Target, 2 from General Finishes and 1 from Mohawk.
Controlled number of coats(thickness if you will, we actually measured wet film) were applied without exceeding manufacturer specifications. Target and General were tested in 2 different sheen.
Mohawk proved to be the worst of them all. Had a strong blueish hew and mediocre leveling. General and target were about the same with Target being a bit more translucent and General having slightly higher build up. None of the water base finishes looked as good as solvent based lacquers and polyurethanes compared head to head. Gloss was closer in appearance and resistance but satin waterborne looked like mud.Test took a couple of weeks and I can give you more details if interested.
Roman.