I'm going to try these myself, might pick up the Elna's to compare. Those look about right...
UKZ1H221MHM Nichicon | Mouser
UKZ1H221MHM Nichicon | Mouser
I used a Panasonic FM bypassed with a .01uF MKP1837 under the board, it JUST fit with the height of my nylon standoffs.
I have no basis for comparison but it worked out well for me.
I have no basis for comparison but it worked out well for me.
mcandmar, how high were the spacers you used to mount the PSU board...I've gone and grabbed the 5218 as well... Looks like 3" might just clear... and give me enough room for everything else involved in that area. Can you confirm?
Cool! Please tell me you're in a 4U chassis now... 😛 Are those diode heatsinks really 2" tall like you link you posted earlier?
Can you save or share the order (there's a function for it on Mouser's website) so we can see?
It will be of use to others, having a fresh BOM... 🙂
It will be of use to others, having a fresh BOM... 🙂
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=F2EB9598DE
Remember me when I'm dead. 😛
How flexible is the value of the 3300pF line level ceramic disc cap? I'm not sure about that item. I swear I remember seeing Mr. Pass saying 22pF or 33pF now that I'm looking at that value...
Possible problem: those diodes are a TO-247 package so double check they fit the heatsinks.
Mmmkay. You're right. Tried to find a nice big heatsink that's 2" tall for TO-247 packages but none are in stock at Mouser.
I will use the following rectifiers: MBR20200CTG ON Semiconductor | Mouser
And cut the TO-247 insulators down manually I guess.
EDIT: Looks like one would have to cut them down anyways! They're 1" wide, wiiide load.
I will use the following rectifiers: MBR20200CTG ON Semiconductor | Mouser
And cut the TO-247 insulators down manually I guess.
EDIT: Looks like one would have to cut them down anyways! They're 1" wide, wiiide load.
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I ran into the same issue, hence i used TO-220 package too.
Don't forget you need nuts/bolts, and plastic insulators to mount the diodes to the heatsinks. Aavid sell a kit 4880SG Aavid Thermalloy | Mouser but they are pricy so i bought a lifetime supply on eBay for less...
100 Thermal Insulator / Silicon Rubber Pad TO-220 size=18x13x0.3mm RoHS Uni-Home | eBay
100pc Nylon Transistor Bushing Washer TO-220 RoHS size=?6.1x?3x2.6mm hole=?3mm | eBay
Don't forget you need nuts/bolts, and plastic insulators to mount the diodes to the heatsinks. Aavid sell a kit 4880SG Aavid Thermalloy | Mouser but they are pricy so i bought a lifetime supply on eBay for less...
100 Thermal Insulator / Silicon Rubber Pad TO-220 size=18x13x0.3mm RoHS Uni-Home | eBay
100pc Nylon Transistor Bushing Washer TO-220 RoHS size=?6.1x?3x2.6mm hole=?3mm | eBay
Mcandmar, I am sneaking up on my F4 build. Questions regarding space in the chassis. I am using the Store's power supply boards, like your build and the Antek 5218 transformer. I would also like to include the softstart board and speaker turn on delay. Will the Deluxe 4U chassis be big enough or should I just go for the Deluxe 5U?
Thank you for your thoughts.
David
Thank you for your thoughts.
David
A 500VA Antek, with the Softstart and Speaker protection? A 4U is going to get really tight. It may be possible, but it's going to be a Tetris game for sure. At the minumum you should not use the diodes on the PSU and instead just use bridges, and you'll need to mount the PSU board on the font panel as shown -
(no, this isn't the tightest use of space, but you get the idea...)
Yes, the current PSU board and the current Deluxe chassis have holes and threads to mount it as shown, with the diode board removed.
It's not so much the value, but that it must be X1/X2 rated for use across the AC line. 2200-4700pF is fine. It's job is to suppress arcing and sparks at the power switch.
4U is fine if you utilize the back panel area, i mounted the speaker protect there and the soft start next to the transformer. Note my soft start board is larger then the DIYAudio version too.
Some pics to give you some ideas...
Attachments
I like it Mcandmar. So stacking the power supply over the transformer is the only way. One question regarding the speaker delay board. From my reading it is designed to work with 12 or 24 volts AC, does not need a regulated supply?
Thanks
David
Thanks
David
Its not the only way, i have seen people mount the power supply board vertical against the front or rear panels, or you could separate the rectifier section from the power supply board and mount them separately, or use diode bridge blocks as 6L6 mentioned above. This layout just made the most sense to me.
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Hey Jim, do you have a part number for those sinks you used on your BA-3 front end? I have some sinks that are much smaller and wondering if you really need the larger ones.
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks,
Eric