I can entirely control the flare and length with a modeled, printed port. I use leftover filament at the shop so it is free.
I don't think you read the original posting of the build. I'm literally making this with leftover woofers, wood, 3d printing filament, and full sending it with the most simplistic XO I cna get away with.
Complicating the build and purchasing passive radiators defeats the goal of "boring 2 way"
If you can't fit a simple vent into a boring 2-way build, you can fix that with a passive radiator, often with a better result than any complicated work around construction. That is all I wanted to point out.
If you fill 4 pages on this forum about a possible way to get a vent working, 3-D printed or imported from the Vatican Town, simple just went through the door.
If you fill 4 pages on this forum about a possible way to get a vent working, 3-D printed or imported from the Vatican Town, simple just went through the door.
I can fit a vent. I am fitting a vent. Simple.
I just don't quite understand why you came into this thread so aggressively and with, what feels to me from reading some of your messages here, like an unnecessary level of vitriol.
I don't take any of this too seriously. It's just a hobby. We are all just trying to have fun.
I just don't quite understand why you came into this thread so aggressively and with, what feels to me from reading some of your messages here, like an unnecessary level of vitriol.
I don't take any of this too seriously. It's just a hobby. We are all just trying to have fun.
I'm sorry if you find me serving some facts, ideas and different options "agressive".
If I would point out all the nonsense and simply wrong advice in a thread, that may be seen as agressive. Even if it would help for the end result.
I may dislike it a little too much when I see people loose their track while doing something that may be important for them.
OK, some simply want to make mistakes and call this process "a hobby", but I think the majority likes to have a good result at the end, even if it is "just for fun".
If I would point out all the nonsense and simply wrong advice in a thread, that may be seen as agressive. Even if it would help for the end result.
I may dislike it a little too much when I see people loose their track while doing something that may be important for them.
OK, some simply want to make mistakes and call this process "a hobby", but I think the majority likes to have a good result at the end, even if it is "just for fun".
Some people on here make a habit out of giving "advice" that isn't solicited and then even getting upset if the advice is contested or refused. Here's what I'd do if it were my build, but do as you see fit.
That SF woofer is a very underrated driver. It doesn't have nearly the issues in the flesh that are pointed out in reviews. I use a lot of both the 17 and 20 cm version of this driver and found it performs as good as some sub $100 Seas or ScanSpeak stuff, provided its dealt with properly in the crossover design.
You can cross the SF 17 above 3k if you notch the 4.5 - 5k breakup. Don't believe the published FR curve. The peak around 1k is the surround impedance reflection and doesn't really become annoying in most cases. It depends on where it lands with baffle diffraction ripple and how it adds up with the FR.
With BSC on a small 2 way baffle, the system sensitivity ends up at about 88 dB. The tweeter chosen by the OP for this design is not so great IMO. I'd at least do a capable 25mm soft dome or larger ie. Peerless DX25TG59 crossed at 3k (or lower if you have to have better off axis FR instead of max SPL).
That SF woofer is a very underrated driver. It doesn't have nearly the issues in the flesh that are pointed out in reviews. I use a lot of both the 17 and 20 cm version of this driver and found it performs as good as some sub $100 Seas or ScanSpeak stuff, provided its dealt with properly in the crossover design.
You can cross the SF 17 above 3k if you notch the 4.5 - 5k breakup. Don't believe the published FR curve. The peak around 1k is the surround impedance reflection and doesn't really become annoying in most cases. It depends on where it lands with baffle diffraction ripple and how it adds up with the FR.
With BSC on a small 2 way baffle, the system sensitivity ends up at about 88 dB. The tweeter chosen by the OP for this design is not so great IMO. I'd at least do a capable 25mm soft dome or larger ie. Peerless DX25TG59 crossed at 3k (or lower if you have to have better off axis FR instead of max SPL).
Good to know about the driver. I just made the box today so I'll get to start taking measurements soon.
A notch at 1k and crossing it higher sounds like a good plan if my tweeter won't cross lower.
I've had good luck with tymphany so far and wanted to see what a partially horned tweeter does so that's why I chose it. This is more of "just for fun" build than my last one where I three enough money at it that I really wanted to get it right.
It will be interesting to see how both of these drivers measure out.
A notch at 1k and crossing it higher sounds like a good plan if my tweeter won't cross lower.
I've had good luck with tymphany so far and wanted to see what a partially horned tweeter does so that's why I chose it. This is more of "just for fun" build than my last one where I three enough money at it that I really wanted to get it right.
It will be interesting to see how both of these drivers measure out.
Back at it!
Parralel XO leaves me with less than 2 ohm impendence at the high end. I think that'll blow out your average 2 ohm stable desktop amp
Series XO looks pretty good.
The tweeter has a ton of distortion under 2K so it need to be crossed high. Luckily this Silver Flute has great low distortion all the way to 5k where the response just drops off.
Parralel XO leaves me with less than 2 ohm impendence at the high end. I think that'll blow out your average 2 ohm stable desktop amp
Series XO looks pretty good.
The tweeter has a ton of distortion under 2K so it need to be crossed high. Luckily this Silver Flute has great low distortion all the way to 5k where the response just drops off.
Attachments
Lower the series cap and raise the parallel coil. I guess that will solve the problem
Wolf,
Apologies, I spend my days in electrical engineering land so resistance rules a lot of my week.
I used a series XO calculator to get the starting but yeah, I see now neither are series....both paralell...
Apologies, I spend my days in electrical engineering land so resistance rules a lot of my week.
I used a series XO calculator to get the starting but yeah, I see now neither are series....both paralell...
How do you explain the fall in the woofer response between 100Hz and 200Hz, despite the filter response showing as close to flat?
Any frequency will have a problem with distortion above some level, and crossovers can be used at a lower frequency at lower levels. This may not be clear when looking at a measurement taken at a single level.
You're not seeing the woofer fall.
You're seeing a boost in the low end from the port. The port falls off. The woofer keeps going