Nice, I would like to build a larger exit angle horn after this, that would be easy to experiment with cnc wise.That is certainly way to go. Round to square can be done on a CNC as well.
Cheers
Good news voodoo, I have really enjoyed the creative freedom printing has brought to the party, which machine did you choose?
Re loosing a cm, it would be possible and may happen in v2 woofer mounts, but for now there is ample clearance for xmech, modularity and rigidity.
Hope to get a test or two done tonight.
Re loosing a cm, it would be possible and may happen in v2 woofer mounts, but for now there is ample clearance for xmech, modularity and rigidity.
Hope to get a test or two done tonight.
I’ve got stl’s for a K402 with the sides already set up for dual 15” woofers.Nice, I would like to build a larger exit angle horn after this, that would be easy to experiment with cnc wise.
Cheers
Got them from a guy who made a k402 MEH clone and posted them free online.
You could just send those straight to a cnc shop.
It's not just on mobile... Your above quote I could only do by selecting the text and then clicking reply.. no idea why there is no normal "reply" button on the post...Not sure why some posts can't be quoted on mobile?
This is the original thread: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/199679-an-attempt-to-build-k-402-meh-clone-in-wood/@Mitch311 Could you please also PM me the STLs for inspiration? Thanks!
Has all the details of the build in there. I'm pretty sure the original STL's are in there. But I've reuploaded them here as well:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1a2_LtsBEUw5PLDtfuYiLkRK0d7U_RaAj?usp=sharing
A few fusion models for the nerds out there, enjoy the gawdy colors 😉
This is still considered v1 but I learnt about modelling and what not to do!
This is still considered v1 but I learnt about modelling and what not to do!
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I actually fired up the woffers on the horn yesterday but failed to get any measurments as the parrallel 850439 woofers tripped my 3255 into protection mode at about 70% volume.... DCR measures at 2.8Ohms. I added a 20watt 3ohm resistor but that only got me to 80% volume, input welcome.
Yup, its not clear which posts will be quotable (?) but I do love the new forum interface compared to the old one we had!It's not just on mobile... Your above quote I could only do by selecting the text and then clicking reply.. no idea why there is no normal "reply" button on the post...It may be just on the last post, because the others all seem to have it(edit: nope it's not just the last post). Very odd configuration if you ask me.
Been thinking a lot about this design lately and how it could be modeled. The horn itself would be impossible in VCAD, but I find myself wanting to understand the woofer integration far more. Would the enclosure it's in technically count as a bandpass? Seems like a brilliant way to sneak huge drivers into better directivity designs.
Here's my attempt to recreate the bandpass in VCAD. Trying to understand visually what does what. Seems like this is really for modeling subwoofers.

Here's my attempt to recreate the bandpass in VCAD. Trying to understand visually what does what. Seems like this is really for modeling subwoofers.

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I've read all of a thread and... it went above my audio knowledge somewhere in the middle of 90 pages
My sincere apologies for stupid newbie questions... :
1. There were talks about active EQ and DSP and XO, but probably missed about the passive XO for this project: is it intended to be passive XO also, or only active with lots of EQ and DSP?
2. Want to try to build something like it: can I use just one 8" woofer? It is more than enough for my intended usage.
3. The back of the box - does it make sense or possible to make BR, ML or any other vented "from the other side" of the woofer? Right now it is acting like simple sealed box, right? I would like to to floorstanders from this project.
Thank you for your answers
My sincere apologies for stupid newbie questions... :
1. There were talks about active EQ and DSP and XO, but probably missed about the passive XO for this project: is it intended to be passive XO also, or only active with lots of EQ and DSP?
2. Want to try to build something like it: can I use just one 8" woofer? It is more than enough for my intended usage.
3. The back of the box - does it make sense or possible to make BR, ML or any other vented "from the other side" of the woofer? Right now it is acting like simple sealed box, right? I would like to to floorstanders from this project.
Thank you for your answers
Hi SVP,
Thanks for your interest in this project.
Yes, you can make the back a bass reflex to get more bass. Just use the volume and dual woofer TS parameters in a reflex calculator program. I would not tune below 60Hz.
It is much more convenient to use DSP. When I started this project I was not as versed as I am now in making passive crossovers. It could be possible except that the speaker is not currently in service for me to measure. Plus, you would need to make the exact speaker with identical waveguide and hole cutouts for my passive XO to be of use to you.
There is an easier version of a similar speaker called the MicroTrynergy. It uses a 2 dimensional tractrix with two flat panels that mount four 5 in woofers. Same mid-tweeter with SB25AC driver.
I have a passive XO for that speaker.
It’s made of XPS foam and paper foam core but you could build yours out of thin plywood for the curved horn and thicker plywood for the rest of the cabinet.
Use budget 5.25in rubber surround 8 ohm woofers designed for replacement drivers for bass reflex bookshelf speakers. Wire the drivers in series parallel for nominal 8ohm and you get nice boost in sensitivity. I left the back open but you could make it ported for deeper bass. Make sure you make a small sealed chamber for the tweeter.
But I think performance with DSP was better when using a Harsch XO:
Even with the open back, the bass was very satisfying. Here is measured acoustic XO (Harsch at 500Hz implemented with BW4 on LPF and LR2 on HPF with 0.92 ms delay). The step response was quite nice being a Harsch - you get a quasi transient perfect speaker combined with a point source the imaging is superb.
Here was the harmonic distortion:
Bonjonno’s build:
Anyhow, it’s a very interesting build and a fun speaker. I would encourage you make it out of foam first. Quicker and no special tools. Low cost. If you really like it, make it in wood but you may find no need to do that if covered with veneer.
Thanks for your interest in this project.
Yes, you can make the back a bass reflex to get more bass. Just use the volume and dual woofer TS parameters in a reflex calculator program. I would not tune below 60Hz.
It is much more convenient to use DSP. When I started this project I was not as versed as I am now in making passive crossovers. It could be possible except that the speaker is not currently in service for me to measure. Plus, you would need to make the exact speaker with identical waveguide and hole cutouts for my passive XO to be of use to you.
There is an easier version of a similar speaker called the MicroTrynergy. It uses a 2 dimensional tractrix with two flat panels that mount four 5 in woofers. Same mid-tweeter with SB25AC driver.
I have a passive XO for that speaker.
It’s made of XPS foam and paper foam core but you could build yours out of thin plywood for the curved horn and thicker plywood for the rest of the cabinet.
Use budget 5.25in rubber surround 8 ohm woofers designed for replacement drivers for bass reflex bookshelf speakers. Wire the drivers in series parallel for nominal 8ohm and you get nice boost in sensitivity. I left the back open but you could make it ported for deeper bass. Make sure you make a small sealed chamber for the tweeter.
But I think performance with DSP was better when using a Harsch XO:
Even with the open back, the bass was very satisfying. Here is measured acoustic XO (Harsch at 500Hz implemented with BW4 on LPF and LR2 on HPF with 0.92 ms delay). The step response was quite nice being a Harsch - you get a quasi transient perfect speaker combined with a point source the imaging is superb.
Here was the harmonic distortion:
Bonjonno’s build:
Anyhow, it’s a very interesting build and a fun speaker. I would encourage you make it out of foam first. Quicker and no special tools. Low cost. If you really like it, make it in wood but you may find no need to do that if covered with veneer.
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Wow! Superb work - sorry I did not see this until today. Great work on the modeling in 3D.A few fusion models for the nerds out there, enjoy the gawdy colors 😉
This is still considered v1 but I learnt about modelling and what not to do!
View attachment 1224837View attachment 1224838View attachment 1224839View attachment 1224840
Did you build this in hardware yet and can we see photos?
I and merry christmas 😉
I trying a small Horn as well and found a Beyma 460N on ebay which i picked up same day 😉
Now I am waiting for the SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4. Lucckily i had some old TangBand W-3-871 in the cellar 😉
I tried some different Horn adapters from 3" to 2" end this seems to be the best type:
The surround is completely covered! Now only the cone is beaming into the horn!
This is the frequency response without filtering:
This is with 6db Highpass:
6dB HighPass plus EQ:
Looks very promising to me 😉
Thanks a lot for your inspiration!
Christian
I trying a small Horn as well and found a Beyma 460N on ebay which i picked up same day 😉
Now I am waiting for the SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4. Lucckily i had some old TangBand W-3-871 in the cellar 😉
I tried some different Horn adapters from 3" to 2" end this seems to be the best type:
The surround is completely covered! Now only the cone is beaming into the horn!
This is the frequency response without filtering:
This is with 6db Highpass:
6dB HighPass plus EQ:
Looks very promising to me 😉
Thanks a lot for your inspiration!
Christian
Sorry for the Typos… should read it before I send it 😉
And I hope it‘s OK, that I post it… but the Bookshelf ist the inspiration.
Thanks a lot
Christian
And I hope it‘s OK, that I post it… but the Bookshelf ist the inspiration.
Thanks a lot
Christian
Very nice Chris! Looks very usable and I bet sounds great. The sensitivity is pretty good I bet.
I have seen Kees52 use a simple single high pass film cap to flatten that response. Try a 4.7uF MKP cap and play around with value. Sometimes useful to have a passive horn without any active EQ needed.
The tractrix you picked is nice because it has two flat sides perfect for mounting woofer to. Great find on that horn!
What does response look like without such a constricting adapter - let more of the diagram act on the tall aperture.
Merry Xmas!
I have seen Kees52 use a simple single high pass film cap to flatten that response. Try a 4.7uF MKP cap and play around with value. Sometimes useful to have a passive horn without any active EQ needed.
The tractrix you picked is nice because it has two flat sides perfect for mounting woofer to. Great find on that horn!
What does response look like without such a constricting adapter - let more of the diagram act on the tall aperture.
Merry Xmas!
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Hi
i was already using a 4.7uF. Fits pretty good! With the 4.7uF its a HighPass at ~5kHz,
I have tried different versions of my last adapter with a smaller ring ans smaller in size. Last one was by far the best response. I made the inside ring big enough, that i can place some polyester felt inside!
Orange is the last one 😉
I also tried an adapter fron 2" to 3", but response was also not that good:
Blue ist the 2"/3" adapter:
So maybe using a larger chassis and covering the surround is not a bad idea?! Has anybody else tried this before?
Will try the same, when i get the SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4
Woofers and plane Wall: yes, that was the idea... but 8" doesn't fit there without cutting a lot of the big throat. maybe 6" ist the better option here.
If you like, i can post the next steps here but don't won't to go to much off topic 😉
Christian
i was already using a 4.7uF. Fits pretty good! With the 4.7uF its a HighPass at ~5kHz,
I have tried different versions of my last adapter with a smaller ring ans smaller in size. Last one was by far the best response. I made the inside ring big enough, that i can place some polyester felt inside!
Orange is the last one 😉
I also tried an adapter fron 2" to 3", but response was also not that good:
Blue ist the 2"/3" adapter:
So maybe using a larger chassis and covering the surround is not a bad idea?! Has anybody else tried this before?
Will try the same, when i get the SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4
Woofers and plane Wall: yes, that was the idea... but 8" doesn't fit there without cutting a lot of the big throat. maybe 6" ist the better option here.
If you like, i can post the next steps here but don't won't to go to much off topic 😉
Christian
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