It shows it can work.
But a properly designed system/crossover must be measured multi-axis and in actual enclosure/baffle.
But a properly designed system/crossover must be measured multi-axis and in actual enclosure/baffle.
Well, Seas confirmed they are the same except for the gasket cutoff and colors. And I don't have proper tools to measure the drivers...
Alright then, can you attach frd's and zma's you have of these? I would like to check something.
You have made one mistake defining high frequency boundary while tracing Seas W12 CY001 spl/imp graph.
Will you go ported? These drivers do a surprisingly good job of bass.
The straight edge on the basket of the woofer will let you place closer to the tweeter. Try to get them as close as possible. I like to even cut the tweeter faceplate, but depends on your tools.
Actually, would you like me to design a waveguide for you? You can get it printed at JLC PCB. Then it will match the woofer directivity better, allow a lower crossover and reduce baffle diffraction.
The straight edge on the basket of the woofer will let you place closer to the tweeter. Try to get them as close as possible. I like to even cut the tweeter faceplate, but depends on your tools.
Actually, would you like me to design a waveguide for you? You can get it printed at JLC PCB. Then it will match the woofer directivity better, allow a lower crossover and reduce baffle diffraction.
I plan to go ported, unless someone has a better idea. I will put them gasket to gasket, I just don't know yet if I will do TMM or MTM placement. Thanks for the offer for the waveguide, but I have no idea how to integrate it with the rest.
I made it rectangle so it is easy to router a rebate with a 12mm cutter.
Baffle Cutout. Add your own tollerence.
Baffle Cutout. Add your own tollerence.
10L is probably good once you consider the port area is removed and some bracing. Maybe a 5cm dia port 25cm long, mounted in the bottom or top of the box?
Do I need to take into account the volume of the crossover as well? Those Clarity Caps MR 3.3u and 4.7u I have are quite massive.
It's not that critical. Also add some bracing inside the box- front to back, and side to side. Opposite panels linked together.
5cm for two 4” drivers seems a bit overdone to me, a (flared) port of 40mm would do. Keeps port resonances away, because its reduced lengt. Plus: for a classy 2-way I’d take a passive radiator.