7" Lilliput LCD Projector/400w HQI Bulb from the UK (Midlands)

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far nuff..you could always (if you can make it fit that is lol its gettin cramped behind the mirror already hehe) put a small 80mm fan on one side and a vent on the otherside and seal the area off from the rest of the PJ that would keep it nice and cool bud
;-)

Just looking at the thickness of the walls i reckon you could recess the fan into the side no probs and make it fit...problem of heat in the area solved 🙂
 
This sort of along the lines of what I was thinking nick...knocked up a quick scetch in Paint to show you what I was trying to explain...hope it helps 🙂
 

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ah ok

I am not redoing the box unless i really need to

i plan to put the ballast behind the mirror somehow!!! lol

i will put some vents and the front 92mm ones with filters to stop light (might restrict air flow hmm)

and then i will try pass some hot air through the light box
 
nick[x1] said:
just to add, i powered the bulb up for about 5 mins then turned off

then 2 mins later turned it back on and it didnt power

is this because its to hot?

At least the the OSRAM 250W TS has a recomended 10-15 minutes "cooling off" time between power ups.

I would suspect the 400W should have something similar.

Cheers
 
Yes nick...

Metal halide (MH) lamps do not achieve their full light output immediately after starting. They require 5 to 15 minutes—to reach 100% of their full light output. Its called the warm up period or run up time.

After a lamp has been on for a period of time and then turned off, you wont be able to turn it back on until the arc tube has had a chance to cool down. This period is called the re-strike time. For traditional probe start MH lamps maybe as long as 15 minutes.

Its also best to leave your lamp running for 20 minutes or so when you start it up nick so as not to shorten the life expectancy of the lamp...

Hope this helps mate 🙂
 
thanks for that info 🙂

update on where i will be putting the ballast

it will go in the space inbetween the frensel and front so there will still be room for a 60mm fan on top of it and vents at the front 🙂

just needs a bit of a trim hehe

should be fine i hope 🙂
 
i opened the lilliput psu and soldered some longer mains wires to it and used a bold drive bay (cut up) to hold it in place and it works just nice 🙂
looks a bit of a mess in the pic really
 

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temp after 30 mins of it being on with 3 fans running

it hovers between 39-41 which i think is ok really but not sure

suppose for a 400w its not to bad at all 🙂

i still need to put a 60mm fan running over the bulb which might take the temperature down a bit even more and put a air director on the air out bit from the light box as the 2 fans pulling air in are pulling some hot air from the light box which isent a good thing really
 

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well after an hour test last night
i was hitting temps such as 44 🙁

which i wasent very happy with

so this morning well afternoon because i had a lie in lol i temp put a 120mm fan at the top of the case extracting air from the front of the light box

and the temp never went over 32oC in a 1hr test so i am happy with that i will be mounting the 120mm where the 92mm at the front is and mounting the 92mm at the top

if temps still get to high then i will change the top fan to a 120mm but it would have to be a low profile one
 
hi i am new in this forum. i m glad i joined in here on right time because i m going to build a new projector with 7" lcd. right now i am bidding on 7" lcd TFT in ebay.com.

i hope nicks project wud be greatly helpful to my future project.

nick,

keep working on ur toy. i think ur projector wud be great for me because i prefer a small size one for my tiny condo.

thanks nick and hillybilly 🙂
 
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