I have ported subs so the mono would work whatever u said i dont know what a subsonic filter is and whats wrong with the 2 300 watts? The mono amp is the higher priced one..... I do have to say it is over my budget......
In simple terms....with a ported box, the combination of your port size/length and the size of the box give it what's known as a tuning frequency. At that frequency, the sub's excursion will be the lowest, and the output will be the highest (the port is doing all of the work, the sub is just barely vibrating). Above this frequency, the excursion will slowly increase until you're about an octave above tuning, at which point the excursion of the sub will be similar to that of a sealed box. Below tuning however, you get what's known as "unloading", what basically happens is the cone is moving too slow and the box's port just acts like a giant hole, the sub behaves like it's not in a box at all. Power handling goes out the window (very high excursion for very little power), and output does as well. So in simple terms, below the box's tuning frequency, the sub starts moving a whole hell of a lot and you get very very little output. If you have the sub turned up a decent amount, this extra excursion can easily push the sub over the edge and cause it to bottom out and self-destruct. A subsonic filter is a highpass filter set at a very low frequency, what it does is reduce the amplitude of the signal going to your sub at very low frequencies. Its purpose is to prevent, or at least lessen the amount of excursion you get from unloading, so that the sub doesn't destroy itself.hipyo said:
Legacy is trashhipyo said:
My suggestion is to expand your budget, if you keep it this low then you're just going to end up with the same crap you had before, and it's going to die prematurely just like before.hipyo said:
remember to look at the fuses on the amps. The Pioneer had a 15 amp (blue) fuse, as did the first Lanzar amp. The fuse limits the amount of power from the battery that can get into the amp. SO it's impossible for the amp to put out MORE power than the fuse will let inside.
let's see....
15 amps x 14.4 volts = 216 watts.
This means that an amp with a 15 amp fuse can only take in 216 watts, and can't possibly put out more than 216 watts. And of course, in actuallity it is less since the amplifier is inefficient (some of that power gets wasted inside the amplifier, and just ends up making it get hot), and there is a margin of safety, since if the amplifier would be operating close to the rating of the fuse all the time, it'd blow fuses left and right.
usually the maximum output power that you can get out of the amp is somewhere around 50-75% of the maximum watts alowed into it by the fuse. So I consider 15 amp fused amplifiers to be 100 - 150 watt amps.
red fuses are 10 amps
blue fuses are 15 amps
yellow fuses are 20 amps
clear fuses are 25 amps
green fuses are 30 amps
orange fuses are 40 amps (these are rare)
I would recommend finding some soprt of amplifier that is fused at something like 30 amps, or 50-60 amps (dual 25 or 30 amps fuses) that's in your price range. don't forget to check the Besy Buys and Car Toys, etc for deals on old stock old models when the new ones come in.
let's see....
15 amps x 14.4 volts = 216 watts.
This means that an amp with a 15 amp fuse can only take in 216 watts, and can't possibly put out more than 216 watts. And of course, in actuallity it is less since the amplifier is inefficient (some of that power gets wasted inside the amplifier, and just ends up making it get hot), and there is a margin of safety, since if the amplifier would be operating close to the rating of the fuse all the time, it'd blow fuses left and right.
usually the maximum output power that you can get out of the amp is somewhere around 50-75% of the maximum watts alowed into it by the fuse. So I consider 15 amp fused amplifiers to be 100 - 150 watt amps.
red fuses are 10 amps
blue fuses are 15 amps
yellow fuses are 20 amps
clear fuses are 25 amps
green fuses are 30 amps
orange fuses are 40 amps (these are rare)
I would recommend finding some soprt of amplifier that is fused at something like 30 amps, or 50-60 amps (dual 25 or 30 amps fuses) that's in your price range. don't forget to check the Besy Buys and Car Toys, etc for deals on old stock old models when the new ones come in.
While fuses can tell you a little bit, they can't come close to telling you the power of the amp. If you see a "6000 watt" amp with a 10 amp fuse then obviously you know it's BS, but past that they really can't tell you much. Remember in order to blow a fuse like that you have to exceed their current rating by a good bit AND keep that draw up for an extended period of time. Unless you play a full power sine wave for several minutes solid, you aren't going to blow the built in fuse unless it's less than half of what the amp is capable of drawing. During music it would be virtually impossible to blow an amp's built in fuse unless it's WAY too small (such as a 10 amp fuse on an amp capable of a 40 amp draw), or driven into heavy clipping.
A 600 rms amp could have a fuse anywhere between maybe 40-80 amps and it would be fine (though 40 is a bit on the low side), a 30 amp fuse would be pretty fishy, and if it had a 20 amp fuse then most likely it's another one of those ridiculously overrated flea market amps. That's about all they can tell you though.
A 600 rms amp could have a fuse anywhere between maybe 40-80 amps and it would be fine (though 40 is a bit on the low side), a 30 amp fuse would be pretty fishy, and if it had a 20 amp fuse then most likely it's another one of those ridiculously overrated flea market amps. That's about all they can tell you though.
if what you want/need is too expensive, save up. If you buy something too small/poor and you have to resell/replace anyhow...
your first amp was cheap and is now scrap.
your first amp was cheap and is now scrap.
ummm what do you do if u cant find out wut size fuse is on the amp? I looked at pictures and and I cant find any picture big enough to show wut fuse is on there...... i need to check the 4 channel still but i cant find any for the mono help please....
uh oh 2 15 amp fuses in the 4 channel..... at the power i have it comes out to about 405 watts.... hmmm.....
hipyo said:
It's only a 500rms amp, 30 amps in fuses is fine for 500rms. It's a tad on the low side, but like I said in my last post, unless you play a test tone at full output for several minutes, you'll never blow those fuses (unless there's a problem with the amp and they blow as a safety measure, which is the only reason they're there).
Lanzar isn't exactly the epitome of car audio, but they're not that bad. If that amp doesn't do rated power, it will at least be relatively close to it.
can some other ppl to reply here?? 1 good reply doesnt help that much.... plus my amp lasted less than a week before the crossover went out....
If you cannot afford 600 "quality" watts then just buy a smaller amp with less "quality" watts, lol. That Orion Cobalt amp will sound a heck of a lot better than any of the amps you are looking at. JMHO..Polo😀
if you are stuck between a regular 2 or 4 channel amp, and a mono subwoofer amp, You might be better off with the subwoofer amp. The sub amps should get you more watts/dollar, and if they are class D, they will be more efficient and generate less heat.
Just make sure you load the amplifiers down correctly, and do not overload them. Be sure to look at the specifications and ONLY pay attention to the RMS wattages at the loads that you will be running the amp at.
You said you had two subs? I'm assuming that each one has a single 4 ohm voice coil. Is that right? With this you can...
1. get a regular 4 channel amp and bridge each pair of channels into one sub. it will be bridged into 4 ohms, and this is *per speaker*
2. get a regular 2 channel amp and run one sub per channel. This is 4 ohms stereo. Most cheap amplifiers will only take 2 ohms stereo, or 4 ohms bridged.
3. get a regular 2 channel amp that is 1 ohm mono/2 ohm stereo stable, and bridge it into both speakers in parallel. You will be bridged into a 2 ohm load, and that power will be for both speakers.
4. get TWO regular 2 channel amps, and individucally bridge them into their own sub. power will be bridged into 4 ohms, and per subwoofer
5. get a Monoblock amplifier that is 2 ohm stable (most can handle at least 2 ohms, some of the bigger ones can do 1 ohm) and parallel the subs into this. The output power is that into a 2 ohm load, split into both subwoofers.
Just make sure you load the amplifiers down correctly, and do not overload them. Be sure to look at the specifications and ONLY pay attention to the RMS wattages at the loads that you will be running the amp at.
You said you had two subs? I'm assuming that each one has a single 4 ohm voice coil. Is that right? With this you can...
1. get a regular 4 channel amp and bridge each pair of channels into one sub. it will be bridged into 4 ohms, and this is *per speaker*
2. get a regular 2 channel amp and run one sub per channel. This is 4 ohms stereo. Most cheap amplifiers will only take 2 ohms stereo, or 4 ohms bridged.
3. get a regular 2 channel amp that is 1 ohm mono/2 ohm stereo stable, and bridge it into both speakers in parallel. You will be bridged into a 2 ohm load, and that power will be for both speakers.
4. get TWO regular 2 channel amps, and individucally bridge them into their own sub. power will be bridged into 4 ohms, and per subwoofer
5. get a Monoblock amplifier that is 2 ohm stable (most can handle at least 2 ohms, some of the bigger ones can do 1 ohm) and parallel the subs into this. The output power is that into a 2 ohm load, split into both subwoofers.
ok number 1 will work number 2 will be like what i had before....
I cant find any cheap ones that have 1 ohm....
number 4 i have posted....and last one i posted too.now I don't think I will find a cheap class D amp.....
I cant find any cheap ones that have 1 ohm....
number 4 i have posted....and last one i posted too.now I don't think I will find a cheap class D amp.....
sr20dem0n said:
When the voltage drops down to where the battery takes over, it will with no problem. BUT at this point the alternator is effectively shorted out and the rectifiers(built inside) may burn out and make the alternator useless.
Better to leave the car off and just use the 12.6V from the battery, backed with caps.
One of my friends insisted on letting the car run while pounding a stereo like this and after 3 alternators, I convinced him to beef up his electrical power system at much greater cost.CBS240 said:
When the voltage drops down to where the battery takes over, it will with no problem. BUT at this point the alternator is effectively shorted out and the rectifiers(built inside) may burn out and make the alternator useless.
Alternators are built to run at 12.5V, in fact they don't even put out their rated current until you drag them down to 12.5V (and have them at high rpm). At 14.4V they'll only put out a fraction of their rated current, even at high rpm. But you're right, if you beat on alternators bad enough they will burn out. It's not the fact that you drag it down to 12.5V that hurts it, it's that you're drawing so much current (actually it's just the rated current, but most alts can't handle their rated current thermally for a significant amount of time) through the alt that it starts to heat up, and the heat kills it. Caps won't really do much, a stronger battery can help (stronger skin charge can supply some small amounts of current at 14.4V so the alternator doesn't have to load down as often, same effect as a cap but it can supply more current than an ordinary cap can). If the voltage is really dropping down to 12.5V that much, the only thing that can help is an upgraded alternator that won't have to work so hard to provide the current you need. If it's just an occasional drop then the alternator should be fine for years.
I guess after all of this rambling we're kind of saying the same thing....ah well
and both off topic i need opinions and suggestions here!..... I still need to look at Class D amps not have much hope in them.... but i have to look around....
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