600 *REAL* watts amp?

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OK some of u guys may know that my old amp broke well the crossover broke check over with the internal crossover blown thread anyways I am now looking for an amp that is around 600 *real* watts and that is reliable.... The only thing is im very cheap im looking for the same price or around my old amp.... $50... If you guys can find or kno of any good amps please post the price,where I can buy, and how many *real* watts it has no more than 600 though my subs can handle 300 each good luck on this search for amps I will be posting ones that i find that i think are good for ur guys opinion... i want an amp that will last THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUYS :D
 
hah, the last amp I sold was a budget amp that did 800rms, and it sold for $200. The one before that was also a budget amp that did 400rms, and it sold for $150, and these were both used. You aren't going to find anything that can do 600rms for under $100, and you aren't going to find anything that can do 600rms reliably for under $150. I wouldn't even think about spending less than $200 on a 600rms amp personally, you'll just end up with the same crap you had before.
 
dnsey said:
Why do you want 600Watts anyway?
It's only twice as loud as 60W, which should be plenty for ICE.
I doubt that you'd actually hear any difference between, say, 300W and 600W, even assuming that your hearing is still intact;)


I take it you've never managed to clip your headunit's built in amp while listening to music? Because many people have, I would say most but there are so many grandmas out there who don't even know what a radio is that throw off the poll. Anyway, that's around 20 watts per speaker, if you're using a pair of speakers in the front, even with nothing in the back, that's 40 watts on your front stage which isn't enough. Subwoofers are typically 6-10dB less efficient than your front stage speakers, which means they need 4-10 times as much power just to reach the same level. If 40 watts on your front stage wasn't enough, then 400 watts on one of the less efficient subs out there wouldn't be enough either. Of course you have cabin gain which helps a bit, but then again 99% of the people out there don't listen to their sub at the right level anyway, they listen to it at least 10dB louder than the front stage. 600rms on a car sub setup is very reasonable in my opinion, especially if that sub is a 10 or a 12 and is sealed. Besides, there's nothing wrong with headroom at all, the more power you have available the better.
 
But then again, since he has been running a poo poo amp a real 600 watt amp will sound like 2000 for sure! I do agree, more is better, a lot more control less chance of damage. You can exceed the maximum rating by quite a bit and as long as the subs are going through FULL excursion it will have adaquate cooling to keep from burning the coil. I am running 3 P2s (200W rms) with a single PG X1200.1 and It sounds great, plenty of drive. I know it is definately pushing the current, the other day I popped an 80A fuse during some old Bass 305, so I went back to the recommended 100A ANL. If I was you I would save a couple of bucks and buy the Pheonix Gold X600.1 mono block, great little amp and sounds like a much bigger one. I see them for a little over $200 on E-bay. JMHO...Polo..:)
 
xplod1236 said:
Just out of curiosity, how does the JBL GTO1201.1 (I/II) compare with the previously mentioned amps? It puts out 800 wrms at 4 ohms and 1200 wrms at 2 ohms. Is it a good/reliable amp? They're sold on ebay for $300.


Thier older BP series amps got a lot of praise, supposedly they didn't enjoy being run at 1ohm but they were fine at 2ohm (rated stable at 1ohm, but did the same power at 1 or 2ohm). Several of their new amps are made together with Crown and they're supposed to be nice, but I'm not sure about this one.

As a side note, it claims to have a damping factor of 6....unless they measure damping factor differently, that's horrible and should not even be advertised.
 
Mannn, only a 6, lol ? The fact of several amps claiming to be stable down to 1 ohm but looking around and finding reviews that contradict what they advertise is a sure way to make up your mind. What I have found that many a manufacture claims have been cut short due to heat saturation. At 1 ohm the sucker is near a short and developes a lot of heat. That is why I went with a Pheonix Gold , Xenon series amp. It produces full power at any load, from 4 down to 1 ohm. You don't need to run it so low to get all the power. I do anyways because I am a Jerk like that, lol. Here is a picture of my X1200.1, the X600.1 is similar. The whole bottom of the amp is one huge heatsink backed by a variable fan. It keeps it at a predetermined correct operating temperature. If indeed something happens and heat sets in, it will reduce power to maintain coolness instead of shutting down, may many other features too, lol..Let us know what you choose! Polo..

PS- If you get a PG amp, let me know I have the configuration so you can make your own remote bass knob...;)
 
ok wow im very happy that this is getting a lot responses, but are u guys reading my post? I said that I have 2 10s that handle 300 each so i want a 600 watt amp now im going to change my price how about no price? lets see who can find the cheapest amp that has the most real watts and is reliable now im sure none of them will come up with over 600 but please dont put any 600+ real watts these subs that i bought im am very happy with because they sound great and they cost me $20 a peice :cool: I have never experienced a blown coil and i dont intend on doing so when posting ppl please put amp name/real watts/price/and 1-20 rating of reliablity 1 being lowest and 20 be highest THANKS 4 ALL THIS GUYS:)
 

ocool_15

Member
2004-11-26 3:15 am
sk
Safe_Cracker said:
In REAL RMS WATTS it doesn't exist, plain and simple...Only in LA LA LAND! Sorry.....:rolleyes:
amps are still rated that way so it makes sense under the cirumstances. 600W rms at(assumed 2ohms)=34.64Vrms. It should be given like 600Wrms at 13.8V into 2ohms all channels(assumed mono so redundant) driven at <.05% THD. Not this 15.0V 1Khz sine wave 10% THD stuff.
"In reality theres no such thing as a high pass filter." Active Filter Cookbook- Don Lancaster Pg.78 (C) 1995 :xeye: But for practical audio applications I think its safe to call it a high pass.
 
sorry, can't resist -

lets assume that you have an overall efficiency of 75% (A bit into la-la land for class AB). To get 600W average out, you need to put 800 in (1600 peak). Keeping it idealistic, your 14.7 volts doesn't sag and you need to be able to draw almost 55 amps average (110 peak). The amp comes with what? a mere 35 ampere fuse? Is your car's electrical system up to that task while keeping the engine running?

Mega power in a car is difficult without extra alternator(s), batteries and big capacitors. And usng it will destroy your ability to hear what you seek to enjoy.
 
Who said a 35 amp fuse? A 600 rms class AB amp would most likely have around 60 amps in fuses, and unless you ran a full power sine wave the alternator should be able to keep up pretty well. Even if it couldn't, the voltage would sag to 12.5V where the battery would take over the slack and keep it from dropping any more, then as soon as the transient was over the alternator would refill the battery. 600rms really isn't that much in a car, at all. Hell I have more than that just on my front stage....

Anyone who isn't familiar with car audio and is just taking rules and ideas from home audio needs to rethink some things. Car speakers and subwoofers in general aren't nearly as efficient as home speakers, it takes a lot more power just to get to the same level. Then add in road noise, wind noise, and crappy acoustics, and it takes even more power to get up to a reasonable listening level. Not to mention if the individual likes to drive on the freeway with their windows down and still be able to hear the voices in their music. I used to have a 125x2 amp on my front stage and an 800rms amp on my sub and I would have to drive both of them nearly into clipping just to have audible output on the freeway with my windows down. It takes an enormous amount of power to overcome the imperfections in car audio, unless you always drive with your windows up, deaden your car so much that it sounds like a mercedes, use multiple pairs of components in the front, and a ported 12 or a sealed 15 for the substage.
 
sr20dem0n said:
...it takes a lot more power just to get to the same level. Then add in road noise, wind noise, and crappy acoustics, and it takes even more power to get up to a reasonable listening level. Not to mention if the individual likes to drive on the freeway with their windows down and still be able to hear the voices in their music.

No it doesn't. I have an all stock system except for the addition of a sub in an 02 Accord. I drive on the freeway with the windows down a lot, and I can hear the music very well (even at 70+ mph).

I used to have a 125x2 amp on my front stage and an 800rms amp on my sub and I would have to drive both of them nearly into clipping just to have audible output on the freeway with my windows down.

I have 15 wrms all the way around (front ~5.5" and rear 6x9s) plus around 600 wrms for the sub, and I get enough output on the freeway, even with the windows down (not clipping the h/u). It's great to have a stock setup like that. (I'll get the dB meter out tomorrow and see how loud it goes.)
 
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