I'd say it's impossible to get an amp with 600 watts at less than $100.
I built mine with an amp2 and it does 300W x2 subs and the amp module alone cost me $100 incl shipping. and you still need to add chassis work, the SMPS, preamp etc.
I say earn atleast $200 and get an amp from a well known brand. you might even get more thay what they (the manufacturer) say you would.
I built mine with an amp2 and it does 300W x2 subs and the amp module alone cost me $100 incl shipping. and you still need to add chassis work, the SMPS, preamp etc.
I say earn atleast $200 and get an amp from a well known brand. you might even get more thay what they (the manufacturer) say you would.
I don't know how to check how much power it actually puts out but can someone please tell me if this amp is good? I have posted it 3 times now its under $100 and its 600 watts i don't know if its good or not sr20dem0n posted the site he said its good im probly looking for a couple responses that are positive about it then I might buy it
http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap600.html
http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap600.html
hipyo said:OK I am going to need for you to explain the 4 ch set-up again kinda fuzzy sounds like I have 4 subs and making them parallel....
The mono would work, BUT I would need a 300 watt mono because when you bridge you are sending out how much the amps sending out so 600 would blow my subs out.
I think I'm going with the Profile 600 watt x 2 channel. That one is 200 watts peak at 4 ohms. and its only like $75.
I don't remember the RMS of the subs sry...
I am so lost with that post above this....
I think you're just really confused with your terminology, I'll try my best to clear things up.
Bridging - This is what it's called when you take 2 amplifier channels and make them function together as one virtual channel. So a 2ch amp behaves like a mono amp, a 4ch amp behaves like a 2ch amp (or a 3ch, if you only bridge 2 of the channels and leave the other 2 in stereo), etc. Bridging has nothing at all to do with the sub(s) or how they're wired, it only deals with the amp. As you can see, it's impossible to bridge a mono amp because it only has one channel, since bridging is the act of combining a pair of channels together, and you only have one channel available, it can't be done.
There are a few side effects to bridging, first is that power is nearly quadrupled. If you have a 4ohm sub attached to 1 channel on a 2ch amp, it will be receiving whatever the stereo 4ohm rating is. Say the amp does 100x2 @ 4ohm, like that Profile you just linked to, the sub will be receiving 100 watts. Now if you bridge the amp and attach the sub to that one bridged "channel", it will be receiving up to 400 watts (300 watts in the case of that Profile). The other side effect is that the minimum load the amp can handle is doubled, if it could handle 2ohm in stereo, then it can only handle a minimum of 4ohm when bridged.
When you're wiring your subs, the main thing you're concerned with is providing the amp with a final load that it's happy about. So if the amp can only handle a minimum of 2ohm, then you give it 2ohm (any lower risks damaging the amp, any higher is wasting the amp's potential). You have 3 options when wiring your subs to an amp:
Series - In this wiring scheme, the current leaves the amp, goes through one sub, then through the next sub, then back to the amp. If you have 2 4ohm impedances, then wiring them in series will make them behave like ONE 8ohm impedance (R=R1+R2). You take the total power the amp makes at that impedance, divide it by 2, and that's what each sub receives (if it did 600x1 @ 8ohm then you would get 300 to each sub).
Parallel - In this wiring scheme, the current leaves the amp, and is then split between the two subs, then on the other side it joins back together and goes back to the amp. If you have 2 4ohm impedances, then wiring them in parallel will make them behave like ONE 2ohm impedance (1/R=1/R1+1/R2). You take the total power the amp makes at that impedance, divide it by 2, and that's what each sub receives (if it did 600x1 @ 2ohm then you would get 300 to each sub.
Straight - There isn't really a name for this so I just made one up, it's where the subs aren't combined together at all. If you have 2 4ohm impedances, you wire them each to their own amplifier channel, and you end up with 2 4ohm impedances, each running on its own channel. You take whatever power that amp makes per channel at that impedance, and that's what each sub receives (if it did 300x2 @ 4ohm then you would get 300 to each sub).
SO, now that that's all straightened out, lets deal with your situation. You have 2 4ohm subs, so lets run through the possible wiring schemes. Series would give you a single 8ohm impedance, this is too high to be used effectively with any amps out there, so don't even bother considering this one. Parallel would give you a single 2ohm impedance, which would work well with any 2ohm stable mono amps out there (I know Profile has at least one, and most mainstream brands have a couple as well). Straight is your last option, and you end up with 2 4ohm loads. A single 2ch amp is not a good choice, since 99% of them only put out roughly half power at 4ohm stereo (this is what you would have to run it at), you would just be wasting the amp's potential. You could have a bridged 2ch amp on each sub, but this would be a waste of money because you would have to buy 2 amps, one per sub. The last option is a bridged 4ch amp, with each bridged "channel" running one of the subs at 4ohm.
If you want to give each sub 300rms, then you have a coupleof choices
1 - a mono amp that does 600x1 @ 2ohm and wire the subs in parallel
2 - two 2ch amps that do 300x1 @ 4ohm bridged each, and wire the subs straight, one to each bridged amp
3 - a 4ch amp that does 300x2 @ 4ohm bridged, and wire the subs straight, one to each bridged pair of channels.
hipyo said:
That amp will give each sub 100 watts, as covered above
Just because each sub can handle 300 watts max doesn't mean you have to provide all the power that they can handle. From the sounds of it you are on the conservative side anyways so a little less power but from a good amp may go a long way. Just a thought. Back in the day I use to bump an Orion cobalt 230 and a pair of Pyle 15s, i was loud enough to be heard for a couple of blocks, lol. I miss my old 85 monte SS.....
hipyo said:
I dont think your understanding bridging still. A typical car audio amp is stable into 4ohms bridged. If your 2 subs are 4ohm coils that would work. 2channels bridged for each sub will normally give you full power it is capable of.
peak power is for simplicitys sake in 2x the rms but often 3x the rms. again peak power either way is of little to no use anyhow.
hmmm so wierd it wont let me edit my post.... anyways here the link for that perfect amp
http://www.millionbuy.com/lnzvibe228.html
http://www.millionbuy.com/lnzvibe228.html
hipyo said:
hipyo said:
What?
Bridging really isn't a hard concept, and I thought I explained it pretty well in my last post. When you bridge, you are combining 2 channels so that they behave as one. In the process, you increase the minimum impedance that you can attach to the amp, so instead of 2ohm minimum you can now only use 4ohm minimum. This is per channel (or, per bridged channel), so if you're bridging a 4ch amp so it acts like a really powerful 2ch amp, you can only attach a 4ohm impedance to the front pair of channels, and a 4ohm impedance to the rear pair of channels. This is what you want, you have two 4ohm subs, you can put one on the front pair of channels and one on the rear pair of channels.
A better idea would just be to get a mono amp that does 600x1 @ 2ohm though, it will most likely be cheaper and then you don't have to worry about this concept of bridging.
http://www.millionbuy.com/lnzvibe411.html
What if I get 2 of these? http://www.millionbuy.com/lcyla220.html
No specs on ohms...http://www.millionbuy.com/paka6004hp.html
Mono http://www.millionbuy.com/prfcl600m.html
What if I get 2 of these? http://www.millionbuy.com/lcyla220.html
No specs on ohms...http://www.millionbuy.com/paka6004hp.html
Mono http://www.millionbuy.com/prfcl600m.html
the first or last one look like the best choices out of those
The lanzar vibe will give each one 250rms, the profile clarius will give each one 225rms. So the power output is basically the same, you just need to decide which you would prefer. The profile does have a subsonic filter, which would be nice if you're using a ported box.
The lanzar vibe will give each one 250rms, the profile clarius will give each one 225rms. So the power output is basically the same, you just need to decide which you would prefer. The profile does have a subsonic filter, which would be nice if you're using a ported box.
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