Ok, No problem for the time being lets go with the mid and tweeter.
The mids will only change a bit at the bottom and their resonance will change inside the box but its not an issue for mid tweeter integration. *** the tweeter is sealed so that wont change :0
We can figure sound card and resistors in slow time. Many must use Umik's so they will add their input.
Later on it should help a fair bit with understanding bass tuning frequency, so it is a useful function.
The mids will only change a bit at the bottom and their resonance will change inside the box but its not an issue for mid tweeter integration. *** the tweeter is sealed so that wont change :0
We can figure sound card and resistors in slow time. Many must use Umik's so they will add their input.
Later on it should help a fair bit with understanding bass tuning frequency, so it is a useful function.
Ahh, just spotted you said no impedance curve.
Although I can see an impedance profile in graph. Do you mean that you don't have the woofer impedance and Crossover implemented / connected ?
You had me there for a minute. You need to get the mid and tweeters zrd files loaded but they seem to be in your screenshot???.
Just out of interest what resolution are you using as your profiles are so smooth without noise, 1/6th octave smoothing should be fine.
Although I can see an impedance profile in graph. Do you mean that you don't have the woofer impedance and Crossover implemented / connected ?
You had me there for a minute. You need to get the mid and tweeters zrd files loaded but they seem to be in your screenshot???.
Just out of interest what resolution are you using as your profiles are so smooth without noise, 1/6th octave smoothing should be fine.
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Hi again
I use 1/6th octave smoothing in XSim, but work me down from 3dB virtual step size down to 1dB to get "maximum".
Builded a new MTM xover today just to try it out, but Run in to problem when i connected my amp, and my Onkyo-amp stuck in "Amp diagnos mode"....pjuuu
3 hours later on internet and trying i manage to reset tha amp, and had to do all settings again.
Now i measaure both of my xover and compare with the measaurements from the curve without xover, and both are close to crossing-point.
Also find that my new orderd 47usd 150uF cap has value 1132uF....And find a hole in the side......From a soldering iron or explode from inside i don´t know, i haven´t even use it yet!
Regards john
I use 1/6th octave smoothing in XSim, but work me down from 3dB virtual step size down to 1dB to get "maximum".
Builded a new MTM xover today just to try it out, but Run in to problem when i connected my amp, and my Onkyo-amp stuck in "Amp diagnos mode"....pjuuu
3 hours later on internet and trying i manage to reset tha amp, and had to do all settings again.
Now i measaure both of my xover and compare with the measaurements from the curve without xover, and both are close to crossing-point.
Also find that my new orderd 47usd 150uF cap has value 1132uF....And find a hole in the side
......From a soldering iron or explode from inside i don´t know, i haven´t even use it yet!Regards john
Attachments
Hallo again Raymondj and welcome Moorclos
Sorry i haven´t been back in a long while, but I had live´d with health problems last 10 year´s, and from time to time it´s to much to carry.
7 disc herniation and Titan-plate in my neck at 3 level´s, give me daily nerve pain and loss of sensation in my fingers and right leg, and real hard to sleep well.
6 week´s ago i also fell down a stair, so the ligament in the right knee and many small muscles were worn out, so i have been sitting like a vegetable in my soffa for a long time but it begain to get a litle better now so i have hope!
I will soon continue with the Jamo project, but have started thinking about whether this project is really worth the expensive crossover components that I bought.
If you build a speaker from "the beginning" with cabinette and with bigger more exclusive driver´s, and have a real high goal, then it is more accepted with more expensive crossover filters
Maby in this case with the SB26ADC/ 2 x Faithal pro 5fe-120/Peerlees woofer, it´s more priceworthy (in general) to fine-tune the orginal xover a little.
Change values,/put some more component on, and maby wrap on more wire on some coils if needed.
Best regards John
Sorry i haven´t been back in a long while, but I had live´d with health problems last 10 year´s, and from time to time it´s to much to carry.
7 disc herniation and Titan-plate in my neck at 3 level´s, give me daily nerve pain and loss of sensation in my fingers and right leg, and real hard to sleep well.
6 week´s ago i also fell down a stair, so the ligament in the right knee and many small muscles were worn out, so i have been sitting like a vegetable in my soffa for a long time but it begain to get a litle better now so i have hope!
I will soon continue with the Jamo project, but have started thinking about whether this project is really worth the expensive crossover components that I bought.
If you build a speaker from "the beginning" with cabinette and with bigger more exclusive driver´s, and have a real high goal, then it is more accepted with more expensive crossover filters
Maby in this case with the SB26ADC/ 2 x Faithal pro 5fe-120/Peerlees woofer, it´s more priceworthy (in general) to fine-tune the orginal xover a little.
Change values,/put some more component on, and maby wrap on more wire on some coils if needed.
Best regards John
Intresting, I also have D590 that i am trying to improve,i have replaced the damping in the ”midrange-box” beqause i think the midrange is suffocated and it was a nice improvment to my ears at least, i have also put in an extra brace or what its called in the lower part of the cabinet and bitumen mats?in the cabinet
what i am after is a more forward and clearer midrange/treble and tighter bass so changing some drivers would be fun to try as the original look like cheap crap
what i am after is a more forward and clearer midrange/treble and tighter bass so changing some drivers would be fun to try as the original look like cheap crap
Hi John,
Sorry to hear you have been suffering and in pain.
The last thing I remember was you were going for drinks with the boys, so I explained your absence by imagining you were still drinking.
I guess you will need a bit more time for the knee and leg to get back to normal.
I do take your point about costs, and effort. Your project so please carry on with the mental reconciliation and decide where you want to take the build.
Good to know your back on the forum.
Sorry to hear you have been suffering and in pain.
The last thing I remember was you were going for drinks with the boys, so I explained your absence by imagining you were still drinking.
I guess you will need a bit more time for the knee and leg to get back to normal.
I do take your point about costs, and effort. Your project so please carry on with the mental reconciliation and decide where you want to take the build.
Good to know your back on the forum.
Hi Belemakare,
Your mods sound interesting. Do you have images that others could use for guidance?
I have never heard the originals, but assume they were decent enough for people to buy them in the first place. So even if they do look like cheap crap they may produce a good sound up to their power limits. Lots of people still like paper cones and stamped metal baskets.
Your mods sound interesting. Do you have images that others could use for guidance?
I have never heard the originals, but assume they were decent enough for people to buy them in the first place. So even if they do look like cheap crap they may produce a good sound up to their power limits. Lots of people still like paper cones and stamped metal baskets.
Welcome Belemakare....Yes you´r right, the orgnal driver´s is cheap crap and this affordable tweek will change the apperence.
Not sure if only the midrange orginal damping "make all the matters", but a driver working from 150 hz for sure need "more stone wool/damping"
Think the resonance in the bass sektion is quite okey original, because the "cylindrical" shape is good for "stabillity", but the orginal woofer is real bad !
My suggestion is not to buy all new expensive xover parts, and re-build the hole filter....Better to measaure and shift some components as i wrote before.
It´s a wery priceworthy DIY....The Peerlees woofer "kill´s" the original woofer, and the same with the mid/twe.
Best regards John
Not sure if only the midrange orginal damping "make all the matters", but a driver working from 150 hz for sure need "more stone wool/damping"
Think the resonance in the bass sektion is quite okey original, because the "cylindrical" shape is good for "stabillity", but the orginal woofer is real bad !
My suggestion is not to buy all new expensive xover parts, and re-build the hole filter....Better to measaure and shift some components as i wrote before.
It´s a wery priceworthy DIY....The Peerlees woofer "kill´s" the original woofer, and the same with the mid/twe.
Best regards John
They are/where good speakers, i bought mine new many years ago for half the price when they where going out of production,they look timeless and pretty and they sound really good,but if you play more complex music the sound falls apart.. my amp is prob part of the problem.
Maybe change the drivers and just let the crossover be as it is?
Maybe change the drivers and just let the crossover be as it is?
Thank you raymondj for you´r positive word´s, i need that ...I wish i was just still drinking sinse then, and everything else wasen´t there
And yes....the more I think about this project, it gets a little too expensive with brand new crossovers in this diy, at least if you are aiming for quality parts.
And i will instead begain try to modify the orginal xover and see how well it goes.
And my first meseaurements on the orginal xover´s coils showed me wrong measured value, because my meter at that time wasen´t showing correct values.
So coils was much bigger then i tought ( even if is real cheap ones with "maby" to thin copper wire for the power i will use)
I my memory the orginal coils where 8,6 mH, 7,6 mH and 0,47 mH, and that i can work with!
Belemakare:
Yes depending on what you compare with, the Jamo d590 are decent low-cost speakers, but they have a damn nice design and that suits me and want me to make this speakers sound alot better!
All the orginal drivers have a very weak motor´s, so they loses control with loud or complicated music.
And orginal woofer is rated to max 40 watt, so mid´s and tweeter are for sure around max 20 watt.
And if you want my final DIY on these you have to wait until im more "finished", but driver-wise the SB26ADC/ 2 x Faithal pro 5fe-120/Peerlees woofer is a real good priceworthy "upgrade"
Best regards John
...I wish i was just still drinking sinse then, and everything else wasen´t there And yes....the more I think about this project, it gets a little too expensive with brand new crossovers in this diy, at least if you are aiming for quality parts.
And i will instead begain try to modify the orginal xover and see how well it goes.
And my first meseaurements on the orginal xover´s coils showed me wrong measured value, because my meter at that time wasen´t showing correct values.
So coils was much bigger then i tought ( even if is real cheap ones with "maby" to thin copper wire for the power i will use)
I my memory the orginal coils where 8,6 mH, 7,6 mH and 0,47 mH, and that i can work with!
Belemakare:
Yes depending on what you compare with, the Jamo d590 are decent low-cost speakers, but they have a damn nice design and that suits me and want me to make this speakers sound alot better!
All the orginal drivers have a very weak motor´s, so they loses control with loud or complicated music.
And orginal woofer is rated to max 40 watt, so mid´s and tweeter are for sure around max 20 watt.
And if you want my final DIY on these you have to wait until im more "finished", but driver-wise the SB26ADC/ 2 x Faithal pro 5fe-120/Peerlees woofer is a real good priceworthy "upgrade"
Best regards John
First upgrade incoming, SB26ADC and 5FE120 received. If it's good:
2: upgrade: I'll put Fenton 4x WPP20 or WP20 (voice coil 2")(8" start at 30-32hz) 8omhs 88.3dv 1w/1M //less costly than peerless ||If it's good
3: upgrade: old capacitor (tweeter - medium with mkp), perhaps for the bass as same, but newer one ||If it's good
4: perhaps changing the damping material for medium
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Thanks for your welcome Jawen. Hope you'll fell well, soon and for a long time.