Exact.....No one going to se it anyway hahaha
Always easyer to solder 3 component together, and then use 1 leg from one of the components i the small hole
Its going good! One fixed so i am trying a little A-B testing and this is going to be GOOD! The thin metallic sound seems to be gone with the new filter,just really natural and powerfull sound😀🍺
Listen to a 50k canton/marantz stereo a while back and i think the sound of the Jamos is atleast as good
Listen to a 50k canton/marantz stereo a while back and i think the sound of the Jamos is atleast as good
So glad for you
Listen to mine yesterday all night long, and they are so nice to listen to whatever you play.
Have you new woofers also ?
So I pulled myself together and changed two capacitors on xover. As an economic compromise I used ClarityCap CSA. 4,7 uF for tweeter, 10 uF for mids. I have read they need anything from 50-200 hours to "open up", mine have been playing for about 30-40 hours.
I see you guys are still experimenting, I will read it carefully later, but here are my initial observations from my own experiment. My amplifier, Rotel RA-1572 MKII, has been reviewed everywhere as "neutral".
- Overall a slightly "darker" sound. More details and punch in the mids down to xover frequency 150 Hz.
- Since vocals range from 80 Hz (bass) to 1kHz (soprano), most vocals I listen to are above 150 Hz. That is, they fall within the mids range. So, on some recordings, voices (seem to) have an added layer of blanket between singers mouth and mic. On other (better) recordings, everything is fine. Piano and violins never get tiring because of the "darker" sound..
- As for the tweeter I wanted more "air" but am not sure I got it. Maybe a new tweeter is an option?
Regarding the lows, 72 and 150 uF in my case, values are too big for "high end" capacitors. Did you change any of these? If so, to what brand?
Finally, I made some other "improvements".
On the whole, speakers sound quite impressive.
Cheers!
I see you guys are still experimenting, I will read it carefully later, but here are my initial observations from my own experiment. My amplifier, Rotel RA-1572 MKII, has been reviewed everywhere as "neutral".
- Overall a slightly "darker" sound. More details and punch in the mids down to xover frequency 150 Hz.
- Since vocals range from 80 Hz (bass) to 1kHz (soprano), most vocals I listen to are above 150 Hz. That is, they fall within the mids range. So, on some recordings, voices (seem to) have an added layer of blanket between singers mouth and mic. On other (better) recordings, everything is fine. Piano and violins never get tiring because of the "darker" sound..
- As for the tweeter I wanted more "air" but am not sure I got it. Maybe a new tweeter is an option?
Regarding the lows, 72 and 150 uF in my case, values are too big for "high end" capacitors. Did you change any of these? If so, to what brand?
Finally, I made some other "improvements".
- Added professional clay on all baskets.
- Added more accoustic foam in front of the xover (inside cabinet).
- Added self-adhesive rug everywhere inside cabinet.
On the whole, speakers sound quite impressive.
Cheers!
Hello Pelleplutt
Where did you get the value 4,7uF for tweeter and 10uF for midrange from?
To my memory thats wrong values!
Here is the XSIM i did for Jamo 707, and it say´s 30uF and 15uF for the tweeter, and 0uF at the bandpass-filter, but 120uF before the coil.
Cheeper caps are this caps, you can use one 100uF and one 15uF and you more expensive ClarityCap CSA. 4,7 uF = 119,7uF in total.
And the more expensive 4,7uF cap are going to give you better "total" sound from midrange.
https://www.hifikit.se/komponenter/filterkomponenter/kondensatorer/elecap-5.html
Hello agian Pelleplutt
I find my rekomendations for Moorclos Jamo 707, and it goes like this.
1) Change the 220 uF cap to a 120uF cap
2) Put a 1,3 ohm resistor before the cap (220 to 120 uF ) 1,3 ohm resistor will get 11 Volt at 100 watt from amp, so use a 10 or 20 watt resistor!
3) Take away the resistors before cap on the tweeter side, and change cap from 4,7 to 30uF
4) Put a extra 15uF cap after the 0,35mH coil on tweeter-side (and connect to Minus-side)
Then if you think the tweeter is "to much or to high", put a 1 ohms resistor on PLUS-side just before tweeter
Best regards John
I find my rekomendations for Moorclos Jamo 707, and it goes like this.
1) Change the 220 uF cap to a 120uF cap
2) Put a 1,3 ohm resistor before the cap (220 to 120 uF ) 1,3 ohm resistor will get 11 Volt at 100 watt from amp, so use a 10 or 20 watt resistor!
3) Take away the resistors before cap on the tweeter side, and change cap from 4,7 to 30uF
4) Put a extra 15uF cap after the 0,35mH coil on tweeter-side (and connect to Minus-side)
Then if you think the tweeter is "to much or to high", put a 1 ohms resistor on PLUS-side just before tweeter
Best regards John
Hello John
Thanks for your quick reply and suggestions.
My Jamo's, 707a according to label on rear side, are the first ones in this "series" produced by Jamo early 90's. I bought mine 1994. Not sure of the exact chronologicals but there were 707A, 707i, and maybe more. D590 still had the same oval box design but downfiring single bass instead of push-pull reflex. Correct me anyone if I am wrong.
Viewing these xovers (before D590) they look pretty much the same, except for component values. Capacitor values on my xovers are the same as Moorclos provided (post #172), see image. Also attaching an image of my xover with tweeter and mid capacitors (original, before modification).
So maybe your suggestions are to be revalued?
About resistors, I read on another forum about 707 that changing to film resistors made a huge difference. Anything anyone has experienced?
Best wishes,
Per
Thanks for your quick reply and suggestions.
My Jamo's, 707a according to label on rear side, are the first ones in this "series" produced by Jamo early 90's. I bought mine 1994. Not sure of the exact chronologicals but there were 707A, 707i, and maybe more. D590 still had the same oval box design but downfiring single bass instead of push-pull reflex. Correct me anyone if I am wrong.
Viewing these xovers (before D590) they look pretty much the same, except for component values. Capacitor values on my xovers are the same as Moorclos provided (post #172), see image. Also attaching an image of my xover with tweeter and mid capacitors (original, before modification).
So maybe your suggestions are to be revalued?
About resistors, I read on another forum about 707 that changing to film resistors made a huge difference. Anything anyone has experienced?
Best wishes,
Per
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Yes Per, my recomendations was for exact that xover on your Jamo 707 so follow post #370 and #371.
You will get a much better open sound
Pic pelleplutt is for tweeter modification
Then:
1) Change the 220 uF cap to a 120uF cap
2) Put a 1,3 ohm resistor before the cap (220 to 120 uF ) 1,3 ohm resistor will get 11 Volt at 100 watt from amp, so use a 10 or 20 watt resistor!
is for midrange modification, i give you my pic for Moorclos recomendation xover changes.
And last pic a simulated respons on your orginal Jamo 707 xover before modification.
And you se how much the response dropps after 2.700 hz, thats why you hear a weak tweeter!
Regads John
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C2 and C3 together on your xover is 222uF ( as i called 220uf)
Both go together from + down to coil 0,89 mH, and further on to 10uF/coil 5,3mH( bandpass) and + to midrange drivers.
Here is a picture,so you can se how it goes on your xover ( but 1 thing is different, your C2 is 72uF and on picture 48uF, dont care about it)
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Thanks again John!
Maybe you had to take a couple of Valium or just had a good laugh.
We are on different levels on this, so to say. When I get older maybe I will approach your level of knowledge on xover issues, I am only 72!
Anyway, I am getting really excited about this, but before ordering new components I have a few questions:
- Substitute R1 with pure cable?
- Extra 15 uF cap after 0.35 mH coil - not sure how this is to be coupled in reality but I will study.
- 120 uF -> three caps in parallel (100 + 15 + 4,7) and the smallest (ClarityCap) makes sound better?
- Any special brand of caps and resistor? (Hífikit have only Mundorf M-Resist Supreme 20W, all others are 10W, is 10W enough?)
Hope you have more Valium available!
Maybe you had to take a couple of Valium or just had a good laugh.
We are on different levels on this, so to say. When I get older maybe I will approach your level of knowledge on xover issues, I am only 72!
Anyway, I am getting really excited about this, but before ordering new components I have a few questions:
- Substitute R1 with pure cable?
- Extra 15 uF cap after 0.35 mH coil - not sure how this is to be coupled in reality but I will study.
- 120 uF -> three caps in parallel (100 + 15 + 4,7) and the smallest (ClarityCap) makes sound better?
- Any special brand of caps and resistor? (Hífikit have only Mundorf M-Resist Supreme 20W, all others are 10W, is 10W enough?)
Hope you have more Valium available!
Maybe you had to take a couple of Valium or just had a good laugh.
We are on different levels on this, so to say. When I get older maybe I will approach your level of knowledge on xover issues, I am only 72!
Anyway, I am getting really excited about this, but before ordering new components I have a few questions:
- Substitute R1 with pure cable?
- Extra 15 uF cap after 0.35 mH coil - not sure how this is to be coupled in reality but I will study.
- 120 uF -> three caps in parallel (100 + 15 + 4,7) and the smallest (ClarityCap) makes sound better?
- Any special brand of caps and resistor? (Hífikit have only Mundorf M-Resist Supreme 20W, all others are 10W, is 10W enough?)
Hope you have more Valium available!
Hahaha....Don´t worry i also have begain at zero
Yes R1 resistor and blue round thermistor need to be gone, but you can solder one leg of the 30uF cap at the same place, and the other leg from cap to same point that your 4,7uF ends today. ( draw you a wonderful handmade pic hahaha)
Yes, but negative to tweeter in the middle where the extra 15uF cap and 0,35mH coil meets....Like the pic under
Yes.
And skip the 1,3 ohm resistor i recomend earlier, the one before the 120uF caps and 0,89mH coil ( the cap that is 222uF today)
This cap will work, and 100uF is only 57 sek
https://www.hifikit.se/elecap-5.html
Pelleplutt, you have to unscrew the 4 nuts on the xover, so you can se the backside of the xover and solder on it.
Take a photo and show it to me also
Regards John
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Really interesting and thank you shadowplay62.
You have much more skill then me, and im glad you made your post.
Bying a 10uF cap or 2-3 bigger ones makes a real differant in cost
Pelleplutt!
This make it much easier for you, you only have to change the 4,7uF cap to a 10uF cap on the tweeter-side!. ( and take away resistor/thermistor)
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Thanks again John!
Maybe you had to take a couple of Valium or just had a good laugh.
We are on different levels on this, so to say. When I get older maybe I will approach your level of knowledge on xover issues, I am only 72!
Anyway, I am getting really excited about this, but before ordering new components I have a few questions:
- Substitute R1 with pure cable?
- Extra 15 uF cap after 0.35 mH coil - not sure how this is to be coupled in reality but I will study.
- 120 uF -> three caps in parallel (100 + 15 + 4,7) and the smallest (ClarityCap) makes sound better?
- Any special brand of caps and resistor? (Hífikit have only Mundorf M-Resist Supreme 20W, all others are 10W, is 10W enough?)
Hope you have more Valium available!
Now after shadowplay62 post ivé spend some time in XSIM simulation your speakers.
Just to make it easy as possible for you, just change your 4,7uF cap to a 10uF cap and put a 2 ohm resistor between the cap and tweeter +.
Also leave your 222uF caps ( 150+78uF), and put a 1,5 ohm resistor before the 222uF caps.
So just 3 things!
Look at the pic.
