3 way upgrading Jamo D590 replacements and filter question

Can you remind me what your mid and tweeter Xover components are? Are they the same as Jawen's design?

I think the SB26 has great performance for the price. Getting a tweeter fully integrated and tuned to your satisfaction needs careful consideration of level, how the level matches the mid range and ideally follows a flat or downward slope to get a nice power response..

At a simple level and without a microphone to measure, you could try inserting three ohms in series with the input capacitor to the tweeter Xover?

The resistor in series with the capacitor should allow you to tune level easily. A 5 watt power rating should suffice whilst you experiment, you can even use smaller wattage to test. If it goes quite you will have probably have popped the resistor. I have seen half watt resistor's used to act like a fuse, if people turn the volume up at parties.


Hi Ray :wave2:

Hope all is fine with you and your family, and that you dont work to much ;)
What frequencies changes with your "resistor in series with the capacitor" trick ?

Totally agree about the SB26 great performance for the price, and i think Belemakares problems is located in the mids ( and 80-90s metal rock recordings)

Best regards John
 
Hallo agian folks :)

You haven´t done the "final" modification on your crossover Belemakare, so hard for me to tell!!
The final xover was on page 13 post #254 including "how you do it" and

2 X 15uF caps
12uF cap
one 1 mH coil
2,2 ohm resistor
/per speaker

Post 127 was only 3 caps

Have to fix food for my daughter now, but will be back.

Best regards John
What is the green and orange components on the filter? They where not on the orginal filter
 
The speakers are revealing now with the mods and before they where more forgiving ( but dull and boring)

Your absolutley right (y)....Original they was more forgiving.
Thanks for your support! Yeah i took the easy way with the filter but i think its time to do it all the way instead,i unplugged the eq.. every time you listen you just stand there and tinker with the settings…😤 and the sound is a little bit more ”calm”? Without the the eq

You are welcome :)

Little strange that your EQ make it worse :unsure:
Try again to have all EQ in zero/null accept between 1300 hz and 3000 hz ( depending your eq)

1,5 - at 1500 hz,
3 dB - att 2000 hz
1,5 dB - at 3000 hz

( test around those numbers)

Best regards John
 
What is the green and orange components on the filter? They where not on the orginal filter
Wait a minute!

Thats 2 big caps for the midrange a belive. ( total of 133 uF if i recall it right)
Must look in my old data and come back to you

Now im back!

I have wrote in the "how to do" post on page 13

"On my pic xover 5 you can see i use 133uF insteed of the orginal yellow 150uF, and did that to get the impedance up a little bit but its not necessary.
I just what to mentioned it, so you don´t think anything is wrong!"



1674332486971.png


Come back and ask if you have more questions

John
 
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Hi Jawen,

Yes family are fine thank you. Work, well that goes on.

The resistor idea was a quick fix/band aid in an attempt to get less tweeter level, in simpler circuits it just shelves the treble down as you increase the value. The 3 ohms or so should have been enough for Belemkare to readily hear the change.

The two of you working together seem to have identified the culprit i.e not exactly the same as your final Xover.

I will one day get round to doing two 5Fe120 and the Sb tweeter as a standalone design. Hopefully this summer.
Waiting to see if this has a happy ending. :)
 
Yes thats it,but 12 is best?

Ahhhh.....Are you going after my final xover modification, so YES use a 12uF if you can. ( I was thinking you follow my 3 caps mod )

My hole xover mod was built after simulation on also the Peerlees woofer, so i dont know if it change a little if you use some other woofer ( think it work great anyway)

You fix the modification easy if you read my "how to do" manual, go for the final one.

Best regards John
 
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Should there be a connection between the caps to the right and down to the black and white cable? It look like **** but the ends where so short so had to improvise

You have 2 connections hole in the plate, one near the edge and one o bit in on the board.
The inner hole have 150uF cap and the small first coil at the connection-point ( if i remember right)

The connection near the edge have 2x15uF, resistor and coil in the same hole.
Did a "drawing" for you, ask me again if you need.

Was a long time sinse i did this, but hope i remember right, and that this help you.

Best regads John
 

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