Thanks John.
For following observations just note that driver specs are frd and zma files for your drivers, that's all I have.
R1 and 72//4,7 uF removed:
System response is fairly flat, with -5 dB dip between 3-4 kHz (3 kHz original crossover frequency), due to a poor matching of tweeter and mid sections at that interval. Spent hours trying to "lift" mid section around crossover point, without success. The dip is there whatever I try.
A few things I don't understand:
Not to mention impedance response????
For following observations just note that driver specs are frd and zma files for your drivers, that's all I have.
R1 and 72//4,7 uF removed:
System response is fairly flat, with -5 dB dip between 3-4 kHz (3 kHz original crossover frequency), due to a poor matching of tweeter and mid sections at that interval. Spent hours trying to "lift" mid section around crossover point, without success. The dip is there whatever I try.
A few things I don't understand:
- Bass response. I used frd and zma for SLS 830667 provided in this thread.
- Mids response. Used 5FE120_8 No xover mid 90dB at 1K 1_6 smooting_SPL.frd and New 5FE120_8_ZR.zma
Not to mention impedance response????
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Hello pelleplutt
Nice to se that you begain with XSIM
....It´s fun to expriment.First of all, you have connected your 2 woofers wrong in the sheme.
I had to go in serie from + to - to + to - .......Now you have both in parallel from + to -
Also the Peerlees SLS woofer is 8 ohm and when connected like you scheme it is 4 ohm, Jamo original is 4 ohm and with connetion in serie it gets 8 ohm in total.
I try to start my XSIM for Jamo 707 xover, but get an ERROR.....Will try later.
PS ! You can keep you 4,7 uF Clarity cap
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John,
Hope I'm not the reason for you staying up in the middle of the night?!
Yesterday I pulled out the woofers, checked all wirings to PCB and as Jamo's print on component side shows, at least mine are in parallell. PCB is also exactly as Moorclos'. Connecting them in series should mean a time delay between them (maybe not audiable) but four times higher impedance (16 instead of 4 ohm).
Also changed R1 from 4,7 to to 2 ohm (4,7//3,3 = 1,93875 ohm). No significant difference in sound, maybe a slightly raised treble (should be). Will give it some time to evaluate.
Now I'm planning for moving xover outside of box and rearranging components. Especially coils, they should not be mounted like that. Moving it outside makes it easier changing components. Here's a video on this forum about coils.
Attaching a few images. The "feet" are youghurt caps, filled with professional clay (acoustically "dead"). Speakers are mounted with spikes going through rubber feet and into the clay. Speakers stand in a box of corrugated cardboard with a layer of foam rubber in the bottom. Just to be able to move them around the room smoothly when listening seriously.
Don't tell anyone, men in long white coats might come and pick me up.
Saturday again! 🍷
Hope I'm not the reason for you staying up in the middle of the night?!
Yesterday I pulled out the woofers, checked all wirings to PCB and as Jamo's print on component side shows, at least mine are in parallell. PCB is also exactly as Moorclos'. Connecting them in series should mean a time delay between them (maybe not audiable) but four times higher impedance (16 instead of 4 ohm).
Also changed R1 from 4,7 to to 2 ohm (4,7//3,3 = 1,93875 ohm). No significant difference in sound, maybe a slightly raised treble (should be). Will give it some time to evaluate.
Now I'm planning for moving xover outside of box and rearranging components. Especially coils, they should not be mounted like that. Moving it outside makes it easier changing components. Here's a video on this forum about coils.
Attaching a few images. The "feet" are youghurt caps, filled with professional clay (acoustically "dead"). Speakers are mounted with spikes going through rubber feet and into the clay. Speakers stand in a box of corrugated cardboard with a layer of foam rubber in the bottom. Just to be able to move them around the room smoothly when listening seriously.
Don't tell anyone, men in long white coats might come and pick me up.
Saturday again! 🍷
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Hahaha youghurt caps, yes maby men i long white rocks come and pick you up
I have never built a xover that connects the woofer that way, so im not the right one to answer how it "supouse to be connected"
And diden´t know you still use "the same" word for that connection....i.e "paralell"
Here is some reading for you pelleplutt, it explains Isobaric subwoofer box design.
https://audiojudgement.com/isobaric-subwoofer-box-design/
Maby try out without resistor at all ?
Saturday again!
Regards John
Thanks John for interesting link!
Since there are a few more testings with different component values I'd like to do I will focus on moving xo out of box.
Soldering is not funny, I'm not good at it, and my soldering station is probably not the best, I will start with connecting components through terminal blocks. If ever happy, I will solder.
Since there are a few more testings with different component values I'd like to do I will focus on moving xo out of box.
Soldering is not funny, I'm not good at it, and my soldering station is probably not the best, I will start with connecting components through terminal blocks. If ever happy, I will solder.
Congrats Belemakare, good you've come so far. Also good this thread is still alive.
As for the new domes, give them some time. As with all new components there is a burn-in time. My Clarity caps took at least 200 hours before a certain dull sound gave away. Whether it's a change in the components or in the ears/brain is hard to say, maybe a combination.
As for the new domes, give them some time. As with all new components there is a burn-in time. My Clarity caps took at least 200 hours before a certain dull sound gave away. Whether it's a change in the components or in the ears/brain is hard to say, maybe a combination.
You can mesaure cm to this point (red line)
How are the Scan speak 830000 now, whwn you have listen some more?
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Hi been reading this post and you guys have done some real in depth mods to various models of Jamo,s. Please could anyone help regarding Jamo 7.6 as I have replaced the original tweeters with a pair of
Has anyone any suggestions on capacitor change and or resistor value Change just for the tweeters circuit . Many thanks in advance for any help.
Below is crossover for 7.6
| Scanspeak D2905/950000 Tweeter - Classic Range × 2 |
Below is crossover for 7.6
