That’s all you really need. Once you’re set up you may only revisit HFD occasionally. I spent $300 on a Win11 laptop that has done the job without issue
Amps and cables in. HFD programming tomorrow. I will keep one speaker as passive to compare with the other one
Another thing I trial for finish of some exterior panels in the ‘maybe’ category is vinyl wrap with carbon fiber effect. Seems to stick OK. The effect is better from some angles than others and strongly depends on lighting. Any surface imperfections become visible at some angles. Not sure about this one. Will try to wrap the whole temporary back panel to see how larger areas will look.
In 2009, a couple years after I moved to Beijing for work, I achieved "audio nirvana" stacking its sibling Monitor 2.5 (one midwoof) with alnico fullrange Fostex F120A straight-through, bi-amped respectively with 300B SE and Bel Canto S300i ICEamp. Other than low bass, IMHO near impossible to exceed. I still use Mo's small "gold" dome with F120A in @planet10 Fonkensteen cab. Hypex seems like overkill unless you are stuck with so-so drivers. Anyway, I'd suggest adding the best midrange driver you can find, plus the cab improvement (applause).
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The drivers will be replaced in Step 2 of the project.
Looking at this temporary back panel I know what I want to change for the permanent one:
I am also thinking to shift the amp box higher to mount the AirportExpress under the amp box, not above amp box as is now.
Looking at this temporary back panel I know what I want to change for the permanent one:
- make the panel 1mm narrower on each side for better visual blend behind the existing walls
- add 45 degree chamfer all around for better visual blend
- possibly sink the amp box in by the depth of one MDF layer, 18mm, for less heavy visual overhang at the back
I am also thinking to shift the amp box higher to mount the AirportExpress under the amp box, not above amp box as is now.
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Re the vinyl wrap:
Having no experience of working with it I found it rather difficult to apply smoothly. Relatively complex shape does not help either. And its effect/look is not that spectacular anyway, even if perfectly applied. So, not sure about it.
Having no experience of working with it I found it rather difficult to apply smoothly. Relatively complex shape does not help either. And its effect/look is not that spectacular anyway, even if perfectly applied. So, not sure about it.
It is clear that this detail is present or am I mistaken?
Attachments
No, currently the (temporary) back panel is a single layer of 18mm MDF. It is screwed on top of the existing 12mm mdf back panel. The amp box is 4 walls of 18mm MDF glued on the new back panel. So the part that you ticked is mot present.
The future permanent back plate will be different, but there is no design for it yet. There are some things that I do not yet know, e.g. the internal volume required for the LF drivers.
The future permanent back plate will be different, but there is no design for it yet. There are some things that I do not yet know, e.g. the internal volume required for the LF drivers.
I plan to use:
- HF a SB Acoustics Satory tweeter
- MF 13in SB Acoustics Satory paper mid
- LF two of either SB Acoustics 5in carbon fiber mini woofers or Dayton Audio Epique 5.5in mini woofers. I think the DAE will be better, but they are not easy to find at reasonable price. UK is about 200gbp per one. SB is about half that.
Just received the new pc yesterday, latest HFD installed and all worked fine. First basic crossover programmed and loaded, hope to do first measurements today if REW installs/works ok. It was ok on Mac, not tried Windows yet.
Thanks again to @DannerD3H for his perfect guide for newbies.
Thanks again to @DannerD3H for his perfect guide for newbies.
The amp box doesn't need backwall, if it is mounted on the speaker. Walls can be thinner too. I didn't use down/top panels, just some web. And no heat insulation, it doesn't get burning hot... These speakers were old ones made of stone!
Other speakers had custom boxes and FA boards were inserted on subenclosures, so they don't extrude.
Other speakers had custom boxes and FA boards were inserted on subenclosures, so they don't extrude.
Spent a good few hours today on crossover, shelves and boost/cut filters on a single speaker, at 1.2m distance. The best I could get so far is this (1/3 smoothing). Current crossover is LR4 at 4k lowpass on both woofers and LR4 at 2k highpass on tweeter (this gave smoother curve that having both centered at 2k). I found I could move any part of the response to anywhere I want - absolutely amazing!
However, three spots I could not do anything about: the two dips at 54Hz and 95Hz and the peak at 1kHz.
I thought the two dips are the room/speaker position, so moved the speakers radically twice and also tried plugging the port. None of these changed the dips even a millimeter. Then I boosted the 54Hz dip by 6dB with only a little effect. Should I just boost those two more and more? To what limit?What are the possible causes for these two?
Could this be the power limiter (set at 40W) kicking in at some resonances?
The 1kHz one I have tried cutting at both the woofers and the tweeter by 12 and 6dBrespectively - not moved a millimeter. What are the possible causes?
The orange curve has +3dB boost at 54Hz
However, three spots I could not do anything about: the two dips at 54Hz and 95Hz and the peak at 1kHz.
I thought the two dips are the room/speaker position, so moved the speakers radically twice and also tried plugging the port. None of these changed the dips even a millimeter. Then I boosted the 54Hz dip by 6dB with only a little effect. Should I just boost those two more and more? To what limit?What are the possible causes for these two?
Could this be the power limiter (set at 40W) kicking in at some resonances?
The 1kHz one I have tried cutting at both the woofers and the tweeter by 12 and 6dBrespectively - not moved a millimeter. What are the possible causes?
The orange curve has +3dB boost at 54Hz
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You are welcome! Hope it is still relatively up to date, I know he'd have been updated a couple of times since I wrote that guide. Glad if it helps!
This is how I have integrated the amps in my build. Didn't think about fore protection though.. may have been a good idea..
Post in thread 'Small active 3-way floor stander with a punch'