I haven't decided on anything for that yet but when the drivers are bolted in I'll see what there's room for...
gainphile said:
Uh? I have been told the opposite.
With my current speakers, it is too low. With a pair I auditioned a few months ago was obviously a good 20cm too high.
What do you suggest? 5cm or more up from ear level?
I'd think the ear should sit between the tweeter and midrange, especially if the mid goes high/wideband. This is what seems logical to me, and is what my design shoots for.
Simon
Simon
Its also related to the offsetting of the drivers
But with a small mid and tweet the optimum should be between the two
But its also a matter of crossover design
Optimally ALL drivers should be angled and point towards the listening position
According to modern speaker design its important to have equal polar response, which should have first priority
But with a small mid and tweet the optimum should be between the two
But its also a matter of crossover design
Optimally ALL drivers should be angled and point towards the listening position
According to modern speaker design its important to have equal polar response, which should have first priority
I think my waveguide will help in that department, as should the dipole nature of the bass. I'm back from business/holiday now so should get some progress made soon!
Waiting for me here were 4 bass corner absorbers (wedge shaped foam), which I shoved in position (3 tall in left corner behind speaker). It seems to help! Things are sounding good even on these basic speakers! When the new ones are done it should be quite superb.
Simon
Waiting for me here were 4 bass corner absorbers (wedge shaped foam), which I shoved in position (3 tall in left corner behind speaker). It seems to help! Things are sounding good even on these basic speakers! When the new ones are done it should be quite superb.
Simon
Driver offset is a very important point.
This is why active XO is better in many aspects. Phase/delay correction is very easily implemented. Having built many xo with/without correction and notice very considerable difference.
This is why active XO is better in many aspects. Phase/delay correction is very easily implemented. Having built many xo with/without correction and notice very considerable difference.
Simon how are these coming? I've been watching this thread hoping that after your final stage there might be a final schematic and x.o. plan???
I'm glad you posted because that saved me finding the thread 😀
I did a little work over the last few days. I've cut the side wings to shape, drilled the fixing holes on the base plinths for the spikes, and recessed the binding post panels and drilled holes for the posts. I'll post a couple of pics later.
There won't be a final schematic until I've listened, measured, changed, listened, etc..
I can rough up a preliminary one, however, to show what I will listen to first.
Simon
I did a little work over the last few days. I've cut the side wings to shape, drilled the fixing holes on the base plinths for the spikes, and recessed the binding post panels and drilled holes for the posts. I'll post a couple of pics later.
There won't be a final schematic until I've listened, measured, changed, listened, etc..
I can rough up a preliminary one, however, to show what I will listen to first.
Simon
The screw head is not the issue, the tee nut is the issue. Yes, I could use an ordinary washer and bolt, certainly would've been a lot easier. I just thought this would be good. And I don't have to worry about things loosening off once side wings etc. are in place (and in the way).
Simon
Simon
I held a wing against the rear of the baffle this morning and there's some overlap with the tee nut, so I'm going to have to route a couple of chunks away from each side wing.
Also, the binding posts are CMC, not Mundorf! Silver over brass, not top end, but good. I'd originally planned to take the gold over copper ones off my old speakers and change for these but I can't be bothered now!! These look nice against the ply and are going to sound virtually as good I'm sure.
I'm contemplating EnABLing all my drivers before even listening, because I tried it on my current midranges and it's only done good things. It will save taking them in and out unnecessarily. I've also got felt and Plumber's Mait to treat some frames with...
I'm still thinking of turning some DIY phase plugs for the mids, but I'll wait and see how I get on with the waveguides. If it's impossible I'll have to get some shipped over from Parts Express in the USA. They won't be as good as DIY (they're plastic) but they'll do the job.
Simon
Also, the binding posts are CMC, not Mundorf! Silver over brass, not top end, but good. I'd originally planned to take the gold over copper ones off my old speakers and change for these but I can't be bothered now!! These look nice against the ply and are going to sound virtually as good I'm sure.
I'm contemplating EnABLing all my drivers before even listening, because I tried it on my current midranges and it's only done good things. It will save taking them in and out unnecessarily. I've also got felt and Plumber's Mait to treat some frames with...
I'm still thinking of turning some DIY phase plugs for the mids, but I'll wait and see how I get on with the waveguides. If it's impossible I'll have to get some shipped over from Parts Express in the USA. They won't be as good as DIY (they're plastic) but they'll do the job.
Simon
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