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2x150W Amp module for sale

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#968
Hello! I'm trying to understand why an input module (buffer) is needed, in the case when the unbalanced input (RCA), there is no need to use bridge mode and there is no need to switch stand-by. I think it's much easier to just connect the RCA terminals to pins 1-5 of the board's J1 output. Or am I wrong? What do you think about this?
 
#969
You're correct. Bro.

Without the buffer board, you can still power your speaker.

But, this buffer board is free of charge, 🙂 plus it easily mates to your RCA or XLR plug. Unless you have a space limit, then it's better to build the project your way~

Thanks,
Eric
 
#970
Thanks for the quick response, Eric! I would really appreciate it if you could explain how best to connect to FFA002. Everything is clear with the signal lines - IN1+ and IN2+ directly to the "center of the terminal", whatever it is... And with the "-" and the screen, the questions are - which side should I attach the screen from?
1) to J1
2) to the RCA terminal


question rca.png
 
#971
Perhaps I was too hasty with the question, nevertheless it is still relevant and I will ask it in a different way. Please vote for one of the options, for example 1)a or 5)b. Or offer your own. Intuition tells me that with all the variety of options, there is no "right" in this picture))). Thank you in advance. And sorry for the noob question.

question rca2.png
 
#975
A quick question for Eric & others here who may have a better understanding of power --

I'm planning to make a dedicated 8-ch amp for a 4-way OB system based on the Linkwitz 521 & NaO Note II. Three FFA001V3 for the mid-woofers, mids & tweeters plus one FFA002V2 for the dual push-pull woofers -- a pair of Dayton RSS265HF-8 drivers wired in parallel for a 4-ohm (nominal) load.

The power switch I'm thinking of using is one that combines IEC AC jack + fuse + switch rated at 10A 125V. The question: Is this switch robust enough to handle both the power-on surge and maximum power draw at high load?
 
#978
mikessi said:
A quick question for Eric & others here who may have a better understanding of power --

I'm planning to make a dedicated 8-ch amp for a 4-way OB system based on the Linkwitz 521 & NaO Note II. Three FFA001V3 for the mid-woofers, mids & tweeters plus one FFA002V2 for the dual push-pull woofers -- a pair of Dayton RSS265HF-8 drivers wired in parallel for a 4-ohm (nominal) load.

The power switch I'm thinking of using is one that combines IEC AC jack + fuse + switch rated at 10A 125V. The question: Is this switch robust enough to handle both the power-on surge and maximum power draw at high load?
Click to expand...
I have build two sets of LX521.4's - and here are my recommendations
  • Careful with switch data - some of these are cheap copies without anywhere near the stated data. The peak inrush current rating is what you want to look for, make more than break. I noted that the peak inrush on some of these modules where higher than on e.g. nCore and Pascal. This might have changed though, Eric will know..
  • You need the power in the low end - you would be better of with 2x300w on each side and then run the "smaller" 2ch amps om the top and the single on the LM. As lots of people will tell you - this is way more power than needed. Most get by with 50-70w per channel just fine.
  • You might get by using the switch if the setup is two 5 channel amps with one each. If nothing else - consider an inrush circuit or get Eric's advice on the mod to lower it.
  • I would never substitute the Seas woofers, with Dayton's or any other 10". Yes they are expensive - and for a very good reason. ;-)
Wish you great fun with your build!
 
#979
Thanks for your comments, @Norgaard

I'd already decided to look for a more robust power switch, although Eric & others have mentioned earlier in this thread that inrush current on these amps is modest.

"you would be better of with 2x300w on each side and then run the "smaller" 2ch amps om the top and the single on the LM. " -- not entirely sure of your meaning here. Do you mean drive each woofer with 300W? Meaning 2x300W for the bass in each speaker -- 2 300Wx2 modules + 3 150Wx2 for 10 channels? That's not a bad idea, the additional headroom would be nice, but I'm not sure there's enough room in the 19" case to fit all those modules. I guess they would if mounted on their sides. Hmmm....

Re- the original lx521 SEAS woofer -- My speakers are not lx521s, but inspired by them. I posted pics of them earlier in this thread. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/2x150w-amp-module-for-sale.388868/page-48#post-7708488. They were made for my son. Those pics show the system with Peerless SLS 10" tried originally, but they proved unable to cope with the heavy bass of modern dance music my son sometimes likes to play loudly.

Another similar system using SBA 10" woofers in push pull OB is working great, and the Dayton RSS265HF-8 perform very similarly in this config.
 
#980
Norgaard said:
you would be better of with 2x300w on each side
Click to expand...
The speaker systems are already wired with 8-conductor Speakon plugs with the woofers in parallel, along with a custom-made 8-conductor cable. Changing to 10 channels would require a lot of changes and more complex wiring, so I think that's impractical. I will suggest adding powered subwoofers if 300W power for woofers on each side isn't enough to satisfy.
 
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