Thanks, Randy.Thank you for the info Eric. I will order a 1kw class driver tomorrow. I need to start working on the amp solution for this. This is the 1kw of power that I have been pestering you about, 😀 It's happening now
The driver is rated 750wrms and has 4R+4R dual voice coils. I want some amp headroom. 600w@4R mono x2 sounds very good, but 500w x2 @ 4R will do as well. Please let me know if there are any other options besides the 2x FFA002v2 bridged and adjusted modules. Also, please forward the costs for the adjusted modules. I'll start saving up for them in any case
PM you for more details.
The IO buffer has a mode selection switch to configure it with stereo or mono bridge output.where does it say that it can be in spec sheet however?
To complete the images of my 8-ch amp project in the previous post...
Here are pics of the amp in its multiple-layer stain & clearcoat finished wood case -- and in its final place in the audio/tv stand.
Here are pics of the amp in its multiple-layer stain & clearcoat finished wood case -- and in its final place in the audio/tv stand.
That is a sweet setup with those speakers, I looked at building a set but the investment was a little steep without hearing them. In the end I went with XRK
‘s “XSD”version of the open baffle. It used a custom crossover and only one amp. I powered it with a pair of FFA003 mono blocks until I finished my Wolverine amp, I like the bass on the Wolverine amp better.
Bill
‘s “XSD”version of the open baffle. It used a custom crossover and only one amp. I powered it with a pair of FFA003 mono blocks until I finished my Wolverine amp, I like the bass on the Wolverine amp better.
Bill
Thanks Bill. The Orions (3.3) were amazing in our Vancouver house -- great acoustics for those speakers. Not as good here in a "great room" of >1000 sq ft; way too much floor/ceiling reflection, difficult to place the speakers well without letting them dominate the space. Overall sound is very good 10~12 feet in front of the speakers/TV but bass thins and sound gets too diffuse quickly much farther.That is a sweet setup with those speakers, I looked at building a set but the investment was a little steep without hearing them. In the end I went with XRK
‘s “XSD”version of the open baffle. It used a custom crossover and only one amp. I powered it with a pair of FFA003 mono blocks until I finished my Wolverine amp, I like the bass on the Wolverine amp better.
Bill
I find your comment about FFA003 vs Wolverine interesting. I picked up a FFA002V2 (300w/ch) and got it set up recently but haven't done much with it. Thought about using it for the bass with these Orions, but each of the 4 Peerless 10" XLS woofers are driven by one channel of an FF001 -- 150W -- so total power available for the bass would be the same. The Wolverine amp interests me -- how did you implement yours? Do you have a description of your build here?
It was a EF3 Wolverine pretty standard built but used a switching power supply from Micro audio. Placement in my house is not optimal as the living room is open on one side to the rest of the house so the sound stage is screwed up, but other than that bass is great. I have the FFA002v2 I am putting a different front end with rca and balanced input with gain adjustable as well as better op amps.
Bill
Bill
It was a EF3 Wolverine pretty standard built but used a switching power supply from Micro audio.... I have the FFA002v2 I am putting a different front end with rca and balanced input with gain adjustable as well as better op amps.
"pretty standard build" is still pretty elaborate, from what I can tell. Huge heatsinks needed for the higher power versions & the lowest PS voltage is 50V for 120W@8R, right? I have a couple of 40V 700W Antec toroidals -- I wonder if they could be used with the Wolverine?
And you've measured improvements with your front end? Obviously you've heard something. I'd like to know more about this, too!
Have not put it together, having a front panel milled for meters. The shop is also milling me a front panel for Wolverine as well and it had been slow going. I have been listening to headphones a lot lately so not in hurry.
Thanks to Eric for the speedy delivery of my three FFA001V3-HB amps to the UK. I've repurposed an old preamp enclosure to get the first amp up and running, which is driving a B&C 12CXN88 coax driver. The driver is 100db so I did have some hiss (no worse than my other amps), but that was easily solved with 10db inline attenuators. Sounds very impressive to my ears.
My plan is to use the HB version of these amps for left, centre, right duties in my cinema room with active crossovers setup in my Trinnov.
My plan is to use the HB version of these amps for left, centre, right duties in my cinema room with active crossovers setup in my Trinnov.
Hi, James
Thanks for the updates, I'm glad to know these amplifiers did a great job, and I look forward to seeing your great projects
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks for the updates, I'm glad to know these amplifiers did a great job, and I look forward to seeing your great projects
Thanks,
Eric
CoincidenceTo complete the images of my 8-ch amp project in the previous post...
Here are pics of the amp in its multiple-layer stain & clearcoat finished wood case -- and in its final place in the audio/tv stand.
View attachment 1317609
View attachment 1317610
You know, I've pondered modding the Orions to a 4-way. An LX521-ish build I did 6 mos ago made me realize the side panels and part of original "box" could be reused.Coincidence
Ps -- sorry if this is too off-topic!
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I’m building a 3-channel amp using Eric’s boards. On one of my boards I have a red LED lit up. It’s not lit on the other two boards. Does anyone know what this LED means please? Being red, I’m assuming it’s not good?
I’m using a different input buffer board (the eBay board mentioned earlier in this thread), but that’s the same for all three amp boards in this enclosure.
EDIT: I see the red light on other user's boards so more likely an issue with my power distribution to the other two boards...will report back.
I’m using a different input buffer board (the eBay board mentioned earlier in this thread), but that’s the same for all three amp boards in this enclosure.
EDIT: I see the red light on other user's boards so more likely an issue with my power distribution to the other two boards...will report back.
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Hi,
The red LED lit means the board was pluged into the AC supply. It's the normal scenario.
While I'm curious about the other two boards, it should light the LED too; while I do see some issues on your wire diagram. Does the LED damaged by the ground plug? And suggest to use the circled "Green " point as the protective ground connection.
Thanks,
Eric
The red LED lit means the board was pluged into the AC supply. It's the normal scenario.
While I'm curious about the other two boards, it should light the LED too; while I do see some issues on your wire diagram. Does the LED damaged by the ground plug? And suggest to use the circled "Green " point as the protective ground connection.
Thanks,
Eric
This is just the indicator. I mean, if it's not good to replace the LED by yourself, then you can leave it as open 🙂
The module can work fine without this LED.
Thanks,
Eric
The module can work fine without this LED.
Thanks,
Eric
Eric, Any update on DSP project? or A DAC - 8 channels?Thanks for your input, How about the CS4272+ADAU1452? I think this would suit for most DIY applications 🙂
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