I have both the very nice single turn Bourns pots and the multi-turn pots provided in the parts kit for sale. I have decided to use a pair of top adjust parts, as its a matter of time before my toddlers start enjoying these new knobs. I don't think they would dethrone my relay-based attenuator as the favorite toy, but somehow I think that making voices change in pitch while records are playing could be a very enticing prospect. Please let me know if anyone is interested, and perhaps we can work a deal out for the parts.
oh and one more question. Does IC1 need to be heatsinked during the steps outlined in the "first time testing" stage?
I'm not getting any real answers on what happened, part of the problem is I took a new position beginning this month (offer I couldn't refuse). The only information I have is that there is a major problem with both the X and B axis on the machine and this may be the source of the problem. I have measured mine and have found a taper in the bore. It tapers wider as the bore gets deeper, but one fellow reports his is off center which is real strange since all turning was in one setup. The short story is that I will have to replace all pulleys since I can not trust which are good and which are bad. I would prefer to replace them with a colleted pulley but that would cost an additional $20.00 for the collet and I would absorb the cost of the pulley manufacture. With this I would also run each pulley through the CMM to certify the concentricity of the bore to the outer pulley surface. The collets themselves are built to a 0.0002" TIR. Lucky for me my new employer is much better equipped and I will do everything possible to fix this for all involved. Again I must apologize for the problems this has caused.
On a side note I also discovered that my motor now has excessive endplay I suspect the shaft was pushed in or pulled out by the fellow I had doing the run, so now I wait for the next group buy so I can replace that.
On a side note I also discovered that my motor now has excessive endplay I suspect the shaft was pushed in or pulled out by the fellow I had doing the run, so now I wait for the next group buy so I can replace that.
I have a few questions that I cannot seem to find an answer to. Upon performing the "first time testing" steps I first noticed that I was getting around 27.5v from V+ to GND instead of the 23v that is mentioned in the documentation. This seemed a bit high, but I figured perhaps my line was running hotter than most. So, I installed IC1 and now I am getting 19.4v from V+ to GND. Battery voltage is dead on at 13.8v, so I decided to connect the battery. To my surprise it was mostly charged already. When performing the other checks at first I didn't think the yellow or red LEDs worked. Then I realized they did, but were very dim. I get the following LEDs with the following switch combinations:
D U - red
D D - yellow
U D - green + blue
U U - green + blue
The green and blue leds are nice and bright. When I did these measurements, the battery was at 12.69v. So, I figured I double check all the parts against the printed parts list. Everything matched. Then I checked against the schematic and noticed one error. On the parts list, D56 is 1N4741A and on the schematic it is 1N4751A. Looks like the schematic is incorrect. There were also a part or two that was not numbered like the PCB. So, at this point everything seems to be correct, the 2 LEDs are just very, very dim.
So, 3 questions. What's the best way to brighten the LEDs, and how can I safely discharge the battery so I can test the fast charge. I have a 909R 50W resistor I could use, but that would force a couple amps through the battery, and I didn't know if that would be bad (I assume so)... is there a maximum current I should follow when discharging? And finally, will be extra 4v V+ just result in more heat being dissipated by IC1? Am I safe to install the rest of the ICs, per the instructions?
edit:
i forgot to mention that I have not installed VR2 or VR3 yet (or VR4 VR5)
D U - red
D D - yellow
U D - green + blue
U U - green + blue
The green and blue leds are nice and bright. When I did these measurements, the battery was at 12.69v. So, I figured I double check all the parts against the printed parts list. Everything matched. Then I checked against the schematic and noticed one error. On the parts list, D56 is 1N4741A and on the schematic it is 1N4751A. Looks like the schematic is incorrect. There were also a part or two that was not numbered like the PCB. So, at this point everything seems to be correct, the 2 LEDs are just very, very dim.
So, 3 questions. What's the best way to brighten the LEDs, and how can I safely discharge the battery so I can test the fast charge. I have a 909R 50W resistor I could use, but that would force a couple amps through the battery, and I didn't know if that would be bad (I assume so)... is there a maximum current I should follow when discharging? And finally, will be extra 4v V+ just result in more heat being dissipated by IC1? Am I safe to install the rest of the ICs, per the instructions?
edit:
i forgot to mention that I have not installed VR2 or VR3 yet (or VR4 VR5)
Mine finally arrived last week (almost 2 months to the UK). It's a beautiful kit. Thanks Sylvain!
Stupid questions:
The pulleys (I have both versions) are very tight. For fear of damaging the motor, I dare not fit it. What is the correct way of doing so?
Also once it is fitted, is it possible to take it off?
Stupid questions:
The pulleys (I have both versions) are very tight. For fear of damaging the motor, I dare not fit it. What is the correct way of doing so?
Also once it is fitted, is it possible to take it off?
The pulleys are no good I am working on a solution but in the mean time I will be sending out refunds to all involved until I have a solution that works perfectly. When I have the pulley design that runs within a few tenth of a thou I will present them as a product on this form for those that still need a pulley.
I have emailed Sylvain for a list of all that ordered the pulleys.
I have emailed Sylvain for a list of all that ordered the pulleys.
I haven't fit my pulley yet.. I think I should verify any lack of tolerance. I'm sure the other participants would want to avoid any unnecessary rework.
I plan to use boiling water to heat the pulley to allow installation and removal. I also think wrapping the motor to limit moisture getting into it is a good idea. I have no intentions of submersing the motor.
Comments?
I plan to use boiling water to heat the pulley to allow installation and removal. I also think wrapping the motor to limit moisture getting into it is a good idea. I have no intentions of submersing the motor.
Comments?
Ed LaFontaine said:
I was planning on using a heat gun, like the $10 job from Harbor Freight that I use to heat up heatshrink. Problem is getting it off, as this would heat the motor up a bunch as well 🙂
Regarding Greg Nuspel's comment. does it mean I should not even bother fitting the pulley?
I've got both versions (short and long) BTW. Cheers!
I've got both versions (short and long) BTW. Cheers!
Greg when you get a pulley your happy with please let me know and I'm definitely in for one.
Thanks for the people who organised the GB and don't worry about a refunding me for the for the faulty pulley. I joined the GB to get a bargain and even with a faulty pulley that's what I got, and I'm not sure it's fair that those who do the work (for no personal gain) carry all the risk if something does not go quite right.
If organising a GB means you risk being out of pocket if something goes wrong, then why would you bother. Personally (flame me if you want) I think we all took a risk and we should all shoulder a share of the cost (no I'm not a personal friend of the GB organisers, wrong part of the world).
Paul
Thanks for the people who organised the GB and don't worry about a refunding me for the for the faulty pulley. I joined the GB to get a bargain and even with a faulty pulley that's what I got, and I'm not sure it's fair that those who do the work (for no personal gain) carry all the risk if something does not go quite right.
If organising a GB means you risk being out of pocket if something goes wrong, then why would you bother. Personally (flame me if you want) I think we all took a risk and we should all shoulder a share of the cost (no I'm not a personal friend of the GB organisers, wrong part of the world).
Paul
no problems with my pulley...
tight fit but not motor bearing damaging in scale. Slightly eccentric, (noticeable at 9 volts which suggests something like 45 rpm), but this may be undetectable "at speed". For the cost of the pulley, I can probably get one made in my town.
tight fit but not motor bearing damaging in scale. Slightly eccentric, (noticeable at 9 volts which suggests something like 45 rpm), but this may be undetectable "at speed". For the cost of the pulley, I can probably get one made in my town.
I finally tried mounting my pulley on the motor last night, and it has visible runout. Also the taper is quite obvious as I can only mount the pulley one way as the other side is too tight. As Greg mentioned earlier, it appears there was a mistake in the machine setup or program. I am considering throwing this one in a collet and boring it straight through. It may be able to be salvaged due to the taper being press fit on one side. Then with 2 setscrews I could use an indicator to verify the final runout.
Greg, looks like the new job has a very nicely equiped shop. It is always nice to have all the tools you need to get a job done.
Greg, looks like the new job has a very nicely equiped shop. It is always nice to have all the tools you need to get a job done.
Mine finally arrived last week (almost 2 months to the TW).
It's a beautiful kit.
Thanks Sylvain!
It's a beautiful kit.
Thanks Sylvain!
I haven't tried my pulleys, and am a little wary about doing so now, are all the pulleys defective?
To remove the pulley I just heated it with a heat gun (careful where you point it) and using a rag to protect my fingers it came off easily.
Paul
Paul
Greg:
Is it safe to assume that the new pully will have identical dimensions to the previous batch? Mine too seems to wobble at what would represent 45rpm speed. The 33rpm wobbling isn't as noticeable, but given another reference it can be seen.
Is it safe to assume that the new pully will have identical dimensions to the previous batch? Mine too seems to wobble at what would represent 45rpm speed. The 33rpm wobbling isn't as noticeable, but given another reference it can be seen.