• These commercial threads are for private transactions. diyAudio.com provides these forums for the convenience of our members, but makes no warranty nor assumes any responsibility. We do not vet any members, use of this facility is at your own risk. Customers can post any issues in those threads as long as it is done in a civil manner. All diyAudio rules about conduct apply and will be enforced.

2007 Maxon Motor Group Buy

Jump to Latest
#381
ER collets are spring steel so up goes the mass. Also collet are about $25.00 each. One would look something like this.
 

Attachments

  • assem1.jpg
    assem1.jpg
    27.3 KB · Views: 504
#383
The brass pulley was 80 grams. How much would this weigh? This would be a cinch to remove. Hex bolt on top might be nicer.

On coolness factor, I'm game. How much more we talking?

Come to think of it, even if we test I doubt if we would hear anything. But still, I like!
 
#384
Greg Nuspel said:
ER collets are spring steel so up goes the mass. Also collet are about $25.00 each. One would look something like this.
Click to expand...

Spring steel, especially in a collet will work against the "less resonant" approach. It may sound or look cool but I'd stick to your original design.
A threaded hole to remove the pulley is a simple feature that will help everyone. All of my pulleys use opposing set screws and work perfectly well too, no runout and easy to remove. I shy away from press fit on these motors because of the small 3mm shaft, too much pressure installing or removing could damage the shaft or motor. Forget about crowning the pulley for use of tape, doesn't work.
I've made upwards of 50 pulleys for these motors and none of them have failed (perfect concentricity), simple to make with the right process. I believe you have the right process to do the job so good luck.
BTW, large brass pulleys create too much side load on the motor shaft and cause vibration, even with perfect machining since the shaft doesn't extend far enough beyond the housing to give proper support. I have a small, compact brass pulley that works well but I also have a larger one that doesn't. Personally, I don't see any benefit using brass anyway. I've made pulleys from Delrin, Vespel, Aluminum, and Brass, and Aluminum works perfectly well, YMMV.
 
#385
That seems heavy; calculated weight is 8.5 grams, I just checked a ER8 3mm collet and it tips the scales at 2.5 grams. So this is most likely a possibility but the cost will be more. Lock screws are $0.40 each the pulley would be reasonable and I am waiting for a reply on the cost of the ER collets from one supplier and will check with another on Monday. I'm sure the same can be done with the string pulleys. Neat thing is these collets can be changed out for sizes 0.5mm to 5mm to match other shafts. They are made to a maximum run out of 0.0005.

I have to check out what size of boring bars I have to do this small of a bore, it's a 5x reach so it will have to be solid carbide. I may have to figure in a tooling charge but over 50 units it should be within reason. I think we are only looking at an additional charge for the collets. I guess the first thing to do is find out how many people would be interested in these over conventional pulleys.
 
#386
Vinyl-Addict said:


Spring steel, especially in a collet will work against the "less resonant" approach.
Click to expand...


The spring steel is securely clamped against the shaft and the pulley. Spring steel is used to allow the collet to collapse. If you look at a drawing http://hardingetooling.com/imagegallery.asp?ID=2093 of one you can see that there will be a very solid coupling between the shaft and the pulley. Trust me when I have one of these spinning a tool at 30,000 rpm I don't want spring.
 
#388
I think we should set on the two opposing set screws approach right from the start. It is easy to implement, known to work correctly and cheaper than other alternatives.

Don't forget we deal with diyers. Better, simpler and cheaper is the way to go. This way you'll be sure to please more members and we will be able to get into your money.

Small production run and small scale distribution (just think about mailing 50 small pulleys for pennies), you don't want to experiment on new design. We need proven design that will make everyone happy on the first run.
 
#389
Vinyl-Addict said:


Spring steel, especially in a collet will work against the "less resonant" approach.
Click to expand...

I would agree, in theory. Given the density/mass of the collet is a good "mechanical conductor" with the shaft of the motor. Whereas, an aluminum pulley would have a slight "mechanical diode" effect. However, in practice given the whole system. I would doubt if any vibration will travel down the mylar tape>platter>record?needle. Another way of looking at it. The collet might work like a harmonic damper quieting down the motor. Just have to try it out.
 
#393
I know this is the DIY forum but every so often you just have to stop talking and listen to a real expert.

No, I don't mean me, I mean Vinyl Addict.

The man makes his living delivering extreme precision in machining. His work is at least as good as anything I've seen. The controller was designed to work with one of his pulleys (he was the beta tester for the project).

Bottom line: go with his recommendations. You won't regret it.
 
#395
Mark Kelly said:


Bottom line: go with his recommendations. You won't regret it.
Click to expand...

First of all, Thank you, none of this would be possible if were not for your generous gesture.

On that note, I'm sure that we will not be disappointed. I am certainly no expert and I don't know how I got to be in this position. I got too enthusiastic trying to help. With your gift and Algar_emi tireless efforts, I felt compelled. As soon as I read Algar_emi's post I did not pursue the issue any further. I understand his reservations. Vinyl Addict recommendations are based on tried and proven technology coupled with real experience, an unbeatable combination.

To those who are wondering... it maybe ready for the next group buy when Mark Kelly's new controller come out! Stay tuned.
 
#396
I'm still trying to get the motor order modified and get more of them.
If they hadn't been soo expensive, I would I take the chance the order 50 right from the start, but it was a lot of money to spend just in case...

If I can get more more motors, I'll be able to accept the latest requests. I have your name on file and I'll get back to you guys I soon as I have informations on that.

Bye...
 
#397
Revising the parts Lists I realized that I forgot the motor wire and enclosure connectors. I choose a good and not expensive solution, small bayonnet style conenctor:

J1 (Battery) 31-157-0 Conn. 2.1MM DC POWER JACK 2A, Panel
J1a 31-121-0 Conn. 2.1MM DC POWER PLUG SHORT

I'll add them on the kit and make a small price correction at the end.
This way, you'll have everything needed to build the kit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom