I see it at DS6 cathode (I misread your post and read DS6 but it happened to be there)
Not at DS2 or DS4
Might be a hint of it at DS7 but may just be other noise
Not at DS2 or DS4
Might be a hint of it at DS7 but may just be other noise
For RS35, do you see more of the noise on the DS6 end of the resistor or on the protect LED end of the resistor?
For RS30, do you see more of the noise on the DS6 end of the resistor or on the other end of the resistor?
For RS30, do you see more of the noise on the DS6 end of the resistor or on the other end of the resistor?
I see the noise on both sides of RS35
I see the noise on the side of RS30 closest to the top of the board
I see the noise on the side of RS30 closest to the top of the board
Closest to the top of the board doesn't tell me anything. Is that terminal of RS30 directly connected to DS6?
That seems like you have a bad ground reference. Using the scope probe's short ground lead, connect it to pin 7 of the PS driver IC (solder a short, small wire to that pin or a close circuit point to clip to) and re-check for noise on all these points (and previous points). Set the scope to 0.2v/div.
Ground to pin 7 of US1. Either to the terminal directly or to a very close point in the circuit if there is an easier point to connect.
I pulled the good amp I have (different model than the one in this thread) out of my car to properly set the gains. The scope was messed up and giving weird readings (scope ground directly connected to amp ground), and my amp started making a high pitched sound from the amp itself.
Disconnected the amp, connected it back to the car and 2 restarts the sound went away.
I think somethings up with my lab, either cursed, something isn't working right and throwing everything off, or I'm probably doing something wrong.
As for previous post, any other possible places (if it's not my scope settings being incorrect)? I'm not too confident soldering to a pin like that with it being obscured by other components on the board.
Disconnected the amp, connected it back to the car and 2 restarts the sound went away.
I think somethings up with my lab, either cursed, something isn't working right and throwing everything off, or I'm probably doing something wrong.
As for previous post, any other possible places (if it's not my scope settings being incorrect)? I'm not too confident soldering to a pin like that with it being obscured by other components on the board.
While not as good, you can ground to the ground terminal of the driver board (where the two added caps ground). Use as short a wire as you can.
Hello, I apologize I haven't been active here in a long time, life got ahead of me and I had to prioritize other things
I've been wondering if it could be a fault with the TL494 chips? Originally one of the power supply Fets were shorted, I'm wondering if it could've messed up the 494s when it went out?
I've been wondering if it could be a fault with the TL494 chips? Originally one of the power supply Fets were shorted, I'm wondering if it could've messed up the 494s when it went out?
The 494s are typically fairly well isolated from the failed FETs but it's possible that they can be damaged (rare but possible). What you need to do is to look at all of the voltages and signals on the IC to see if the IC is seeing anything to shut the it down. If you aren't sure what to look for, post the DCV on all terminals of the IC. Copy and paste this list and fill in the blanks.
DCV?
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
DCV?
Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
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