2 Monoblock Class Ds Not Working, I'm Lost

No, hasnt been in the heatsink since i started the thread

It is random when it lights up, sometimes it lights up on initial startup, sometimes only when signal is passed through, I'm not able to reliably reproduce it through a certain method though it comes on frequently
 
It did initially however it does not seem to now

These are my findings of the current status of the amp:

With remote on it seems to turn on normally (no signal to rca)

Probing speaker terminal scope shows negative DC build I believe (line jumps down a bit and rises to 0v repeatedly)

Relay clicks, no change

Passing 40hz signal through the amp, about 1/3 headunit volume (below 1/3 there is no change), amp protect light dimly lights, a buzzing begins near PS transformers and stays constant, speaker terminal changes into sawtooth wave and stops jumping

With no signal input the sawtooth wave is clear, gets blurry with signal, I assume the blurring is audio signal (both headunit volume and amp gain change blurring)
Stopping signal makes it clear again
Sawtooth peaks have some sort of wave on them (both with and without signal) picture provided

Changing subsonic pot makes the wave glitch out and the buzz near PS transformers turns to chirping

R7 is still removed
R70 is bridged over
Those 2 caps are still added
 

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Input Voltage: 14.52v

Q3
Base: 0v
Collector: 14.49v
Emitter: 0.51v

Q4
B: 2.14v
C: 0v
E: 0v

Q5
B: 13.94v
C: 0.51v
E: 2.17v

Q50
B: 0v
C: 2.21v
E: 7.23v

Going off the photos attached for pin locations
Top row is Q4, Q5, Q50
Bottom group is for Q3
 

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I can understand for some but for the KSP2907a, the datasheets come up at the top of the search. The others may need a KT of 2S prefix.

If you remove C14, will the relay engage?

Q5 is also a bit suspicious. If the relay doesn't engage with C14 out of the circuit, pull it and check the junctions for forward voltage as well as leakage.
 
If you don't know how to test for leakage and open junctions, simply repost the voltages with those two components out of the circuit.

You could also bridge the collector and emitter of Q3 to see if the relay will engage and to see if the amp produces audio. Connect the speaker after the amp is powered up and only after you've confirmed that there is no more than a tiny fraction of a volt DC across the speaker terminals.

If the amp is out of the sink, power up for only a few seconds at a time unless you're 100% sure that no semiconductors are heating up.
 
I can post new readings tomorrow

The amp produced audio a few days ago (after post #205) I connected a speaker to it and I tested it for about 30 minutes on a bunch of different songs and tones.
I did not run into any issues with it, however it did seem to lack quite a bit of power as it was somewhat quiet on a 30w 4 ohm speaker (I believe the amp is rated 1750w rms at 4 ohms 14v, could it be the protection issue limiting power?)
Headunit was as loud as I can get it before clipping and gain on the amp was on 3/4. I tested full gain for a couple of seconds and it would play, cut out, resume, cut out, and so on, still being quieter than I expected for all it could give.
I have a 10amp fuse on power terminal but I dont recall it pulling anywhere close to that

You were correct about the sawtooth being a higher frequency, I changed my scope settings and was able to see the 40hz wave

The DC on the speaker terminal is only in normal power
When the amp goes into half protect the DC build stops
 
Only things on the same outlet are the scope and 2 usb lights
I usually have one on at a time at random however I’m able to keep them off for testing in the future
Also a headunit on the same power supply though I noticed some internal corrosion on it so I’m using another headunit now and I’ll see how it does
 
Input: 14.58v

Q3
1: 0v
2: 14.57v (engaged then disengaged once while probing, might have bridged a leg accidentally though I don't believe I did)
3: 0v

Q4
1: 0v
2: 7.79v
3: 0v

Q5
1: 0v
2: 14.24v
3: 7.79v

Q50
1: 7.79v
2: 0v
3: 7.25

I also put deoxit on all pots and the switch as they were pretty dirty and I was having the weird issue with the subsonic pot
Not sure if it did anything but thought it may be helpful?
 
I have a 100k resistor that’s read 95k would that work?

C14 seems to be bad, it’s reading as “2 diodes” with my reader
I have a 100uF 16v that reads 110uF would that be ok?
I also have a 100uF 50v that reads 98uF however I would need to bend Q3 to fit it