2.1 TDA2030 amp from ebay

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Hi,

I just bought this amp from ebay (TDA2030A 2.1 AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER KIT 18W+18W+36W A59 bei eBay.de: Amplifiers (endet 04.12.10 15:29:08 MEZ)). II would like to build my first diy amp with this kit. I have a few question though. Will it be possible to swap the TDA2030 with TDA2050 chips? What would be a proper heatsinks for those chips? I was thinking about two 16V 4.5A notbook chargers as power supplies (FOR 16V 4.5A IBM THINKPAD T42 2374 2373 CHARGER ADAPTER on eBay (end time 19-Dec-10 08:29:42 GMT)). Will those work?

Sorry for those (probably) silly questions!

Thank you

eladmi
 
There are 4 chips but only 3 outputs. Do you have a schematic?

Yes, its possible to use TDA2050s in place of the 2030s, then you could run at a higher output power, capacitor voltage ratings permitting. Myself, I'd go for the TDA2030a as its better bang for the buck. The kind of heatsink size you need would be very roughly 100mm square with 20mm long fins, black anodized finish.

A 120VA transformer at 12V won't be suitable unless you're going to use the TDA2030a or TDA2050 - its output voltage will be potentially too high for the 2030.

<edit> Ah, I see the design already uses TDA2030a. The TDA2050 won't give much improvement in output power into 8R as it has just 3V higher supply rating. It will give more improvement into 4R as its output current limit is 5A vs 3.5A for the 2030a.
 
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Thanks for the replies.
The 2 tda2030 for the sub seem to be bridged. I will attach a schematic as soon as i get the kit. I already orderd 4 TDA2050. They were really cheap. Is it poosible to connect the toroidal transformer directly to this pcb? Would it be a good idea to swap the 6800U/25V capacitors with 10000U/25V-35V?

eladmi
 
TDA2030A 2.1

Hi,

I got my kit today. But there is NO complete schematics or wiring diagrams. There are some information from the manufactures website http://www.xydzy.com . I will post more details on this tomorrow.

part list via google translate:

Supporting double-sided circuit boards x 1
6700U/25V capacitor (Japan Chemical) x 2
0.1u capacitor CBB Thomson metal x 4
Thomson 1u metal CBB capacitor x 2
680 European metal film resistors x 4
22K metal film resistors x 10
1 euro metal film resistors x 4 ???
22u electrolytic capacitor on chemical x 6
50K stereo potentiometer x 1
Plum socket (red, white and 1) x 2
TDA2030A or 1875 x 4
NE5532P x 2
4A/600V rectifier bridge x 1
Terminal Block 2 x 2
Terminal Block 3 x 1
Fixed columns and exquisite metal screws 1 set
Insulating silicone sheet x 4
Insulating Aprons x 4
Kit assembly instructions x 1 (no real instruction though)



Some schematics I found on the website:


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


bridged TDA2030a

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


power unit

eladmi
 
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Since rectifier bridge and smoothing caps are present on the PCB, you should directly connect a transformer to it. The second picture in your post #7 shows that the manufacturer recommends 2 x 10-12 V AC voltage.

Replacing the smoothing caps with bigger ones won't hurt, if they fit.
 
Thanks for your help guys.

I have finished the soldering. I will stick with the tda2030a on this one. I orderd a second kit 10 days ago though. I will try the TDA2050 on that kit.

This is the result:

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


@ pacificblue:

Are you talking about R17, R18 and C11, C18?

I recieved an updated installion instruction. In this instruction the removal of C11 and C18 is advised. I will attach it to this post.

I also recieved this email from the seller:

You can use this kit to build 2 channels OCL or 1 channel BTL circuit.
We recommend use AC dual 9-12V power supply for it. OCL mode output power is 18Wx2, BTL mode output power is 36W.
Instruction:
If you apply OCL connection, you need not install resistor R4, please check the schematics.

If you apply BTL connection, you need not install capacitor C9, signal input from right socket RCA. The positive and negative pole of speaker link to left output socket and right output socket.

TDA2030A’s cooler base and 3 pins are conductive, you need use silicotic film and insulation rubber ring to insulate IC and cooler.

Please pay attention to capacitor and regulator bridge’s polarity. Avoid install them by wrong ones.

After welding, please check it carefully. Before you link to speakers, please use a multimeter’s AC voltage end to test if there is AC output from board’s output end, if not , then you can link the board to the speakers.

Support resistor:
1 ohm: brown black black silver brown
680 ohm: blue gray black black brown
22K: red red black red brown

I am not really sure what to do now.

regards

eladmi
 

Attachments

  • TDA2030A 2.1 instruction.doc.zip
    217.7 KB · Views: 901
Are you talking about R17, R18 and C11, C18?

R1, R2, R17, R18 are 1 Ohm which is the correct value for the TDA2030A, while the datasheet recommends 2,2 Ohms for the TDA2050.
C3, C4, C13, C14 are 100 nF. The TDA2030A should have 220 nF, the TDA2050 470 nF.

Of course we have to assume that the manufacturer has done his own tests to verify the amps performance and the values he chose work fine with the TDA2030A. When you replace it with the TDA2050, the datasheet values are the safer bet.

I recieved an updated installion instruction. In this instruction the removal of C11 and C18 is advised. I will attach it to this post.

I also recieved this email from the seller:



I am not really sure what to do now.

It is a bit tedious to find out what those two capacitors do without a complete and decently labeled schematic. If the manufacturer recommends it, skip them. He will have his reasons.

What that e-mail tells you, is that you can use that board not only as 2.1 amplifier with two single ended and one BTL output, but also as 2.0 (or 0.2) with 2 BTL outputs.
If you use it as intended in 2.1 mode, skip R4. If you use it as 2.0, skip C9.

It also repeats what is in the instructions. The heatsink tab of the TDA is live at V-. So you have to electrically isolate it with isolation washers from the heatsink, if that is either grounded (e. g. when screwed to a metal case) or if it is possible to touch it (e. g. when it sticks out from the case).
 
Thanks pacificblue

Of course we have to assume that the manufacturer has done his own tests to verify the amps performance and the values he chose work fine with the TDA2030A. When you replace it with the TDA2050, the datasheet values are the safer bet.



It is a bit tedious to find out what those two capacitors do without a complete and decently labeled schematic. If the manufacturer recommends it, skip them. He will have his reasons.

What that e-mail tells you, is that you can use that board not only as 2.1 amplifier with two single ended and one BTL output, but also as 2.0 (or 0.2) with 2 BTL outputs.
If you use it as intended in 2.1 mode, skip R4. If you use it as 2.0, skip C9.

It also repeats what is in the instructions. The heatsink tab of the TDA is live at V-. So you have to electrically isolate it with isolation washers from the heatsink, if that is either grounded (e. g. when screwed to a metal case) or if it is possible to touch it (e. g. when it sticks out from the case).

From what I have read. The TDA2050 chips do not nee the isolation between the chip and the heat sink. I will switch the amp on this weekend.

regards

eladmi
 
I hooked up the the amp today. It is working as expected, but getting very hot. I am thinking about swapping the tda2050 in. Do you guys think the heatsink is large enough?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Should I give the TDA2050s a shot?

Thanks

eladmi
 
The horizontal fins don't aid in convective cooling very well. How hot is hot? If it is just getting too hot to touch, it may be okay, but if it is going beyond that, you may need better cooling. The actual temp measurement on the tab of the IC is ideal to see if you are safe.
 
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