Sorry to bump a kinda old thread, but I was searching for some help on this kit and run across this thread since I just purchased one of these too. That message that he sent you was for a different TDA2030A kit that he sells that I purchased awhile ago. I think he got the 2 confused on your order. Not sure if it matters now if its running safely but you may want to solder those parts in if you haven't already. I gotta admit these are pretty cool kits on the cheap for a newbie like myself, not bad for a PC speaker amp setup.
A couple of questions, is yours still getting pretty hot? Mine almost burnt my finger but my heatsink was much smaller, I was wondering what size heatsink would be needed?
Also, any recommendations on a transformer? I have a 24VCT 1.5 amp transformer, seemed to do OK in my limited run on my small heatsink for about 10 minutes or so. But it seems I read 1A per chip is best, which would mean 4A transformer @24VCT?
Oh, I plan to run each output into a 4 ohm speaker.
A couple of questions, is yours still getting pretty hot? Mine almost burnt my finger but my heatsink was much smaller, I was wondering what size heatsink would be needed?
Also, any recommendations on a transformer? I have a 24VCT 1.5 amp transformer, seemed to do OK in my limited run on my small heatsink for about 10 minutes or so. But it seems I read 1A per chip is best, which would mean 4A transformer @24VCT?
Oh, I plan to run each output into a 4 ohm speaker.
With a 24 VCT transformer you should get something like 16 W into 4 Ohm. Look for a transformer with more than 64 VA, 4 A at 24 VCT seems reasonable.
For full blast you will need a heatsink with a thermal resistance of 0,5 K/W at 60 W. If you listen at civilized levels you may get away with something much smaller, e.g. 1,2 K/W at 45 W.
tda2030 overheating
I read here that this amp kit seems to be getting hot, and using 4 ohm speakers right have u tried using 8 ohm speakers yet. Or is the problem with the power end of it which would effect the regulators getting hot. My reason for this is the 8 ohm speakers will draw less current then the 4 ohm let me know if this helps
I read here that this amp kit seems to be getting hot, and using 4 ohm speakers right have u tried using 8 ohm speakers yet. Or is the problem with the power end of it which would effect the regulators getting hot. My reason for this is the 8 ohm speakers will draw less current then the 4 ohm let me know if this helps
Power transformer for TDA2030a 2.1
I'm still trying to figure out the correct power for my TDA2030a 2.1 TDA2030A 2 1 Circuit Amplifier Stereo Audio 2 Channel Subwoofer Amplifier Board | eBay It calls for dual 12 volt AC power input. I will probably use 4 ohm speakers. I found the following three options:
(1) 24V 4A for $12.95 at MPJA 24V, 4A Center Tapped (12-0-12) Transformer-Marlin P. Jones & Assoc. Inc.
(2) 24VCT 2A 48VA for 13.95 at Jameco 24V, 4A Center Tapped (12-0-12) Transformer-Marlin P. Jones & Assoc. Inc.
(3) 24VCT 4A 96VA for 25.95 at Jameco GTR-22404: JAMECO VALUEPRO: Power Supplies & Wall Adapters
Any suggestions on which might work better for me?
Thanks,
Paul
I'm still trying to figure out the correct power for my TDA2030a 2.1 TDA2030A 2 1 Circuit Amplifier Stereo Audio 2 Channel Subwoofer Amplifier Board | eBay It calls for dual 12 volt AC power input. I will probably use 4 ohm speakers. I found the following three options:
(1) 24V 4A for $12.95 at MPJA 24V, 4A Center Tapped (12-0-12) Transformer-Marlin P. Jones & Assoc. Inc.
(2) 24VCT 2A 48VA for 13.95 at Jameco 24V, 4A Center Tapped (12-0-12) Transformer-Marlin P. Jones & Assoc. Inc.
(3) 24VCT 4A 96VA for 25.95 at Jameco GTR-22404: JAMECO VALUEPRO: Power Supplies & Wall Adapters
Any suggestions on which might work better for me?
Thanks,
Paul
The cheapest one is just fine.
I would get toroid transformer instead of E I energy wasting and heating piece of iron...
Sometimes you may need to rewind your transformer...
Maybe the E I s are welded and rewinding toroid is simple and clean.
Bought 5 250VA toroids 12€ each from poland and ive had lots of fun with them,
Always in need to get diferent voltages and many many outputs...
Even my silent pc is running on regulated supply driven by toroid
I would get toroid transformer instead of E I energy wasting and heating piece of iron...
Sometimes you may need to rewind your transformer...
Maybe the E I s are welded and rewinding toroid is simple and clean.
Bought 5 250VA toroids 12€ each from poland and ive had lots of fun with them,
Always in need to get diferent voltages and many many outputs...
Even my silent pc is running on regulated supply driven by toroid
Zombie thread.
TDA2030 Id Quiescent drain current typical 50 maximum 80 ma.
These things get entirely to hot with volume off. With volume at I would estimate to be ~5 Watts, it could replace my soldering iron.
Price was ridiculous low, like less then $7. I got the same exact model as shown by
TDA2030A Amplifier DIY Kit Schematic and soldering howto | Atoomnet
Not the one original to this thread, I am putting it here because of the TDA2030 over heating problem. I'm thinking they may be manufacturer fall outs.
I checked some easy stuff DC or AC on the speaker out terminals and it looked clean. What else is odd, at maybe .3 Watts the thing sounds terrible. Soon as the volume is turned up to 2-5 Watt range the sound gets good. With the volume off, the two ICs are hotter then Christmas tree lights.
Not exactly an important event in the history of chip amps. I will get by Fry's in the next couple of days and see if the same part from NTE works.
TDA2030 Id Quiescent drain current typical 50 maximum 80 ma.
These things get entirely to hot with volume off. With volume at I would estimate to be ~5 Watts, it could replace my soldering iron.
Price was ridiculous low, like less then $7. I got the same exact model as shown by
TDA2030A Amplifier DIY Kit Schematic and soldering howto | Atoomnet
Not the one original to this thread, I am putting it here because of the TDA2030 over heating problem. I'm thinking they may be manufacturer fall outs.
I checked some easy stuff DC or AC on the speaker out terminals and it looked clean. What else is odd, at maybe .3 Watts the thing sounds terrible. Soon as the volume is turned up to 2-5 Watt range the sound gets good. With the volume off, the two ICs are hotter then Christmas tree lights.
Not exactly an important event in the history of chip amps. I will get by Fry's in the next couple of days and see if the same part from NTE works.
It should not be hot when there is no signal or even when low signal..these are straight chip Amps that work with supply's of 15 to 18 plus and minus volts and up to 30 volts in one rail mode.
If your amp is getting hot it could be to high rated transformer or heat sink is to small for it. Check there's no shorts in the tracks.
In put signal does not need to be high as distortion will happen....
If your amp is getting hot it could be to high rated transformer or heat sink is to small for it. Check there's no shorts in the tracks.
In put signal does not need to be high as distortion will happen....
It is a stereo amp so the two 2030's are ~supposed to be separated. I mean they both have the same supplies and ground of course.
I had a couple of transformers and I am now running it on ~14VAC center tapped at 7. When I tried to run it at spec, the thing almost glows in the dark. Tried with volume off and speakers disconnected and both 2030 still ran hot. That could be the reason why I am getting lousy low volume performance, bottom of spec for supply voltage at the moment.
I have a heat sink *BUT* I haven't mounted it yet. With a -+18V supply it was in thermal shutdown at sound levels lower then a set of mini head phones would put out if you laid them on the counter. Turning the volume full off, unplugging the source, removing the speakers, still to hot to handle. Something odd is going on. Like the parts failed QC and walked out the back door to find their way into the market.
It isn't all disaster. Works fine at a comfortable listening level. Just can't go low or high volume.
I had a couple of transformers and I am now running it on ~14VAC center tapped at 7. When I tried to run it at spec, the thing almost glows in the dark. Tried with volume off and speakers disconnected and both 2030 still ran hot. That could be the reason why I am getting lousy low volume performance, bottom of spec for supply voltage at the moment.
I have a heat sink *BUT* I haven't mounted it yet. With a -+18V supply it was in thermal shutdown at sound levels lower then a set of mini head phones would put out if you laid them on the counter. Turning the volume full off, unplugging the source, removing the speakers, still to hot to handle. Something odd is going on. Like the parts failed QC and walked out the back door to find their way into the market.
It isn't all disaster. Works fine at a comfortable listening level. Just can't go low or high volume.
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