i'm pretty sure al pro driver recone kits come with the spiders attached to the vc/cone,and most of them include the proper adhesive.
so does JBL. I'm pretty sure it is a more heavy-duty glue that belongs to the family of cyanoacrylates (super glues). I myself have used black/clear CA glue with activator to set it, and don't expect to have triple-joint failures unless I'm abusing the crap out of the speaker.
many high-power car audio subwoofer manufacturers use CA glue, and those things take a beating for the most part.
PSI Car Audio | Subwoofers in all colors and flavors!
Adhesives / Glue | FixMySpeaker.com
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They need to correct their prices...
() Prices vary from speaker to speaker. Prices start from just $25 for repair services, and $50 for reconing services. Services | FixMySpeaker.com
() Prices start from just $25 for repair services, and $75 for reconing services. FixMySpeaker.com | Top quality components and expert assembly.
...The second one (Home page) doesn't look good... more expensive! 😀
I don't know what the pro's use, but I've used the BSA IC2000 and Maxicure adhesivse with the Instaset accelerators and they work just fine.
I found this video earlier in the year and found it again yesterday. The gent from Simply Speakers re-cones a JBL 2226: JBL Speaker 2226 Recone Repair Subwoofer
They sell their Speaker Repair Adhesive, Recone Kit Combo Pack for $21 on their website. Is this what I'm looking for (if my kit doesn't come with it)?
They sell their Speaker Repair Adhesive, Recone Kit Combo Pack for $21 on their website. Is this what I'm looking for (if my kit doesn't come with it)?
that adhesive kit will work just fine. You can find that epoxy kit at pretty much any hardware store. You can also use many silicone-based home-repair adhesives like Goop, Welder, Liquid Nails, etc for the surround-to-frame and even the dustcap-to-cone. Most dry clear, so they won't be noticeable, especially when the cone is moving 20+ times per second. 🙂 My preferred adhesive for the surround and dust cap is Gorilla wood glue---super strong and dries almost clear, and is very cheap at around $4 for a small bottle. For the voice coil/cone/spider triple joint, my preferred is black or clear CA glue (thick consistency) with catalyst/activator, and that stuff will cure hard as a rock.
Springfield Speaker Repair also has a good selection of adhesives:
Professional-Grade Adhesives
For surround doping on cones that require it, white latex based glue works to retain flexibility but does not hold up to extreme moisture. For flexibility and moisture-resistance, the vinyl acetate-based surround doping compound from S.S.R (linked above) is a better choice.
Springfield Speaker Repair also has a good selection of adhesives:
Professional-Grade Adhesives
For surround doping on cones that require it, white latex based glue works to retain flexibility but does not hold up to extreme moisture. For flexibility and moisture-resistance, the vinyl acetate-based surround doping compound from S.S.R (linked above) is a better choice.
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Loctite "Black Max"
Loctite has a product called "Black Max" that is a flexible bonding system, a modified Cyanoacrylate (called toughened cyanoacrylate).
I used this about 6 years ago to attach NdFeB magnets to the moving part of a 6 kW linear motor.
It was an axisymmetric moving magnet motor with arc segment magnets glued to a Tl-6Al-4V magnet holder and a 6 gauge square wire coil in HyperCo lamination stacks on the OD and ID of the motor.
The motors (actually alternators) have an amplitude of up to +/-19 mm and swing 4.6 kg. of Iron Neodymium magnets at 60 Hz.
The Black Max provided a reliability breakthrough that saved the day.
.
If there is a joint in the cone/spider assembly that needs a slightly flexible connection but high strength, this may be a solution.
FWIW,
Dave
Loctite has a product called "Black Max" that is a flexible bonding system, a modified Cyanoacrylate (called toughened cyanoacrylate).
I used this about 6 years ago to attach NdFeB magnets to the moving part of a 6 kW linear motor.
It was an axisymmetric moving magnet motor with arc segment magnets glued to a Tl-6Al-4V magnet holder and a 6 gauge square wire coil in HyperCo lamination stacks on the OD and ID of the motor.
The motors (actually alternators) have an amplitude of up to +/-19 mm and swing 4.6 kg. of Iron Neodymium magnets at 60 Hz.
The Black Max provided a reliability breakthrough that saved the day.
.
If there is a joint in the cone/spider assembly that needs a slightly flexible connection but high strength, this may be a solution.
FWIW,
Dave
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So, I'm awaiting instructions from my supplier. They are contacting B&C for their proper steps on this warranty claim. Seemed straight forward to me. I hope they're not just stalling.
Anyway, beween the time this sub made a buzzing sound and now, I managed to knock another one...dead this time (pics below). I was the dj. No clip lights on the mixer or limit lights on the amp (PLX3402 bridged, clip limiter engaged) before or after it happened (confirms my sound partner). I was playing some heavy sub material (Rockwell - Fluff) and the sub was sounding good all the way up to the song's breakdown as I was mixing in the next song's intro. The next song's basseline came in and no sub was in existence. Was completely odd to experience it that way. Like, it knew when the previous song was gonna end/breakdown...*sigh* & *shrugs*
Will this driver still perform after a recone? Notice the marks the VC wire created on the magnet.
Anyway, beween the time this sub made a buzzing sound and now, I managed to knock another one...dead this time (pics below). I was the dj. No clip lights on the mixer or limit lights on the amp (PLX3402 bridged, clip limiter engaged) before or after it happened (confirms my sound partner). I was playing some heavy sub material (Rockwell - Fluff) and the sub was sounding good all the way up to the song's breakdown as I was mixing in the next song's intro. The next song's basseline came in and no sub was in existence. Was completely odd to experience it that way. Like, it knew when the previous song was gonna end/breakdown...*sigh* & *shrugs*
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Will this driver still perform after a recone? Notice the marks the VC wire created on the magnet.
Yeah.. I'd likle to know how he's doing this and NOT frying amps, popping breakers, or causing a planet-wide blackout. Getting that much average power out of a PLX3402 ought to **** it off royally.
this is loaded in the TH118 right? simple as a strong continuous sine wave bassline at 34 hz is my guess lol.
The answer is simple, buy more powerful speakers.
If the power of the amp matches the speakers then it could be the amp is clipping and driving square waves into the speaker which will kill it pretty quickly.
I run a mobile disco and play guitar and have never in 35 years blown a speaker.
I always have speakers that are more powerful than the amplifier.
If the power of the amp matches the speakers then it could be the amp is clipping and driving square waves into the speaker which will kill it pretty quickly.
I run a mobile disco and play guitar and have never in 35 years blown a speaker.
I always have speakers that are more powerful than the amplifier.
Clipped amps can put out more average power, average power is what burns up voice coils, not wave shape.
That said, AES power ratings use a 6 dB crest factor signal, so sine waves, having a 3 dB crest factor have twice the average power.
With some types of music now having only 3 dB crest factor in the LF, one could burn up a voice coil with a bit more half the AES rating.
With the "right" content, a bridged QSC PLX3402 has plenty of power to roast almost any driver.
The BC18SW100 is rated at 1500 watts AES, which would be 750 watts using sine waves.
The bridged PLX3402 is rated for 3400 at 4 ohms, 2200 at 8 ohms.
Lots of EDM has heavy sine wave-like content right around the 18SW100 impedance minima of 5 ohms.
At 5 ohms, the amp could put out around 3000 watts, four times what the speaker would be expected to handle with sine waves.
Figure 3 dB power compression, and it still was obviously too much, no clipping required.
There are no simple answers now that music is available with average LF power as much as ten times more than it used to be, other than using RMS limiters (or un-clipped amplifiers) around half the AES nominal rating.
To be able to safe get the most out of dynamic and compressed music for the 18SW100 would require an RMS limiter at around 750 watts with a peak limiter in the 3000 watt range.
Art
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Are any RMS limters available, outside of the ITech HD series amplifiers?
And, for what it's worth, our amp couldn't have been putting out the 3000W if the clip or limit lights weren't illuminating. The clip limiter will automatically drop the power out some 3dB, and the limiter wasn't even engaging. That being said, there was still enough RMS voltage to do the damage, apparently. Our PLXs get hot on a regular, but this night it wasn't as hot, either. All of it was very strange to us that night.
Any comments about the marks on the magnet from the wire??
And, for what it's worth, our amp couldn't have been putting out the 3000W if the clip or limit lights weren't illuminating. The clip limiter will automatically drop the power out some 3dB, and the limiter wasn't even engaging. That being said, there was still enough RMS voltage to do the damage, apparently. Our PLXs get hot on a regular, but this night it wasn't as hot, either. All of it was very strange to us that night.
Any comments about the marks on the magnet from the wire??
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