at the impedance minima, you'd be looking at about 2400 watts at 5 ohms, and 1800 with the limiter on.
Whatever- the speaker was about 5.2 ohms at the lower impedance minima, and cone movement and cooling would be least around that frequency, and you know the amp can definitely provide enough voltage to heat the coil enough to discolor it and "slinky" it off.
If I were playing music with only around 3 dB dynamic range, I'd long term limit a 1500 watt AES speaker to no more than 750 watts at DCR, around 62.45 volts or so. Considering the voice coil will heat up and draw less current at that level, that may leave a couple dB "safety zone".
Very wise. We are used to listen to ""music"" with 10 db of signal peaks.
How much amplifier power do I need?
It's the opposite. If I was rep I would stock them. They don't have (recones) because, probably, they blow more often (and they are out of stock). The other models, they have... then or they don't blow (so much) and they are not needed, or it (driver) doesn't sell so much (stupid logic). 😀
ps: if they are blowing a lot that would be a good sign (out of stock).
4 months, meaning they are going to get the next shipment in 4 monts, for the recone they should have it promptly, like 1 month or so... or so the manufacturer would/should be providing a special invoice (similar to the auto-parts), complain!
Acoustic coupling
Thanks, all, fo your input. I know the driver most likely didn't burn up from that one night alone. The proof is in the pictures and the driver has taken a lot of long-term heat.
Now, I'm buying a replacement driver for the meantime and I have a question about acoustic coupling.
The 18TBW100 is just shy of $50 cheaper. It and the 18SW100 sim nearly identically in hornresp. How similar? I've included the screen shots below.
Will this different driver allow acoustic coupling with the other TH18s loaded with 18SW100s? Are their differences so minute that it's practically the same as panels inside the cab being 1/16" off, due to a non-robot built enclosure? Is there more to it than that?
Or is this small difference just enough to push it out of acoustic coupling mode? I'd rather spend the $50 to keep it.
I'd like to hear your thoughts & similar experiences.
Black trace - 18TBW100
Grey trace (if not completely covered by black trace) - 18SW100
Thanks, all, fo your input. I know the driver most likely didn't burn up from that one night alone. The proof is in the pictures and the driver has taken a lot of long-term heat.
Now, I'm buying a replacement driver for the meantime and I have a question about acoustic coupling.
The 18TBW100 is just shy of $50 cheaper. It and the 18SW100 sim nearly identically in hornresp. How similar? I've included the screen shots below.
Will this different driver allow acoustic coupling with the other TH18s loaded with 18SW100s? Are their differences so minute that it's practically the same as panels inside the cab being 1/16" off, due to a non-robot built enclosure? Is there more to it than that?
Or is this small difference just enough to push it out of acoustic coupling mode? I'd rather spend the $50 to keep it.
I'd like to hear your thoughts & similar experiences.
Black trace - 18TBW100
Grey trace (if not completely covered by black trace) - 18SW100
Attachments
1) Yes.
2) Yes.
3) The cabinet design largely determines the phase response, unless a driver is loaded in it that won't work with the design and results in a totally different (like unusable) frequency response.
4) No, as long as the phase response is within about 90 degrees (1/4 wavelength) at a given frequency, the cabinets will acoustically couple.
Are you sure by now (of the burned marks) or was it over excursion from the "bad" alignments (extreme) of the enclosure that the driver might have exceed (excessive) ?! 😕 NPI
This would explain a slow (and violent) process of rubbing of the voice coil. 🙂
If it was this another driver with same Xmax (Xlim/Xmech) the same thing will happen with the same power from amp.
Hmmm...I've watched the driver quite a bit (at high power) and have never noticed any excursion that seemed worrisome..
Also, I found another SW driver that was just $8 more, shipped, than the cheapest TBW I could find, because I would've had to pay tax on the TBW. The SW was out of state. No tax.
Also, I found another SW driver that was just $8 more, shipped, than the cheapest TBW I could find, because I would've had to pay tax on the TBW. The SW was out of state. No tax.
And then two days later, I catch wind of a very small (out of his garage) speaker repair company who claims he can get the recone kit (which is unavailable to me for 4 months) in 7 days and have it reconed for less than the price I can buy the kit for... Too bad I didn't find out sooner. Oh well - guess I'll have a spare/one to experiment with..
like has been repeated a couple times in the thread, hit that driver with enough voltage at excursion minima, and the heat will take its toll (around 34hz).
Technically, the end user is legally required to pay sales tax (use tax) to their own state.
Big brother may not find you now, but can later. The first year my sound company actually posted a $25,000 profit on our tax returns, we were audited.
The audit found I owed $25,000 in use tax from all the amplifiers and speakers purchased out of state because they were used in our road inventory.
Paying the $25,000 hurt, but philosophically I had to look at it as a multiple year interest free loan...
...and that's the only thing you can not pay with Bitcoin (taxes), bama. 😀
Would it work using the turnover trick, selling it, receiving the money and buying new (the second year)? Saving the money from taxes in the first year (if you knew ahead). 🙄
Would it work using the turnover trick, selling it, receiving the money and buying new (the second year)? Saving the money from taxes in the first year (if you knew ahead). 🙄
It would be so helpful if simulators offered power plots and perhaps a mechanical force plot of the VC.
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My MacKenzie recone kit came in (5 day wait (shipping time) vs 4 month wait) -- they claim they're built to same standards as the OEM kits. Anyone have experience with MacKenzie? Another engineer in town with experience didn't have anything negative to share w/his RCF recone kit.
These don't come weatherproof'd -- they informed me that B&C does this after production. Would 'Wet Look' from Parts-Express be a reliable option? Do you suggest a different weather coating product?
These don't come weatherproof'd -- they informed me that B&C does this after production. Would 'Wet Look' from Parts-Express be a reliable option? Do you suggest a different weather coating product?
On B&C I think they use epoxy to seal up the cone on both sides, you might call them and ask about how many grams they apply.
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