Hi all I am hoping to build a sub for Home Cinema to work alongside 3 existing subs to fill in the bass below 18HZ and smooth the response around 25 Hz, the other subs are EQ'd and aligned and I will EQ this sub and integrate into the group
BUT, it does need to be something like 550x550x650 external or less. I have been experimenting with some models looking at different drivers and wanted to see if any advice could be sought here
BUT, it does need to be something like 550x550x650 external or less. I have been experimenting with some models looking at different drivers and wanted to see if any advice could be sought here
IWC,
Of course you didn't mention how thick your enclosure walls are or bracing, but no worries.
Your external dimensions dictate a 6.94 cubic foot box.
A BMS 18n862 would be wonderful in a 4-6 cubic foot box with tremendously clean bass, particularly midbass to boot.
More information and testing here:
Data-Bass: Subwoofer Measurements
You can buy the driver in Europe at: https://www.lean-business.co.uk/esh...-p-2581.html?zenid=rdpnb83spsfosskiq9npe8k9g0
There are other great drivers that are 18 inches in diameter but this one has been extensively tested, tried and measured. I am also a fan of B&C, La Voce, Faital Pro, Dayton Audio etc...
B&C TBW100
LaVoce SAN184.03
Dayton Audio UM18-22
Dayton Audio RSS460-HO
to name a few.
If you are in the US I would point you to MartySubs' website as it takes all the guess work out of building the enclosure (although most of what i have seen there are ported/bass reflex).
Best,
Anand.
Of course you didn't mention how thick your enclosure walls are or bracing, but no worries.
Your external dimensions dictate a 6.94 cubic foot box.
A BMS 18n862 would be wonderful in a 4-6 cubic foot box with tremendously clean bass, particularly midbass to boot.
More information and testing here:
Data-Bass: Subwoofer Measurements
You can buy the driver in Europe at: https://www.lean-business.co.uk/esh...-p-2581.html?zenid=rdpnb83spsfosskiq9npe8k9g0
There are other great drivers that are 18 inches in diameter but this one has been extensively tested, tried and measured. I am also a fan of B&C, La Voce, Faital Pro, Dayton Audio etc...
B&C TBW100
LaVoce SAN184.03
Dayton Audio UM18-22
Dayton Audio RSS460-HO
to name a few.
If you are in the US I would point you to MartySubs' website as it takes all the guess work out of building the enclosure (although most of what i have seen there are ported/bass reflex).
Best,
Anand.
Dayton UM18-22 is a great value for 22mm of Xmax.
I've used it in a sealed box of about 6 cubic ft.
Data-bass.com has a good test of it in a sealed cabinet of that size.
Compared to the BMS18n862, the data there show the UM18-22 to be few dB higher around 20-30hz and a few dB lower around 60-80hz.
I've used it in a sealed box of about 6 cubic ft.
Data-bass.com has a good test of it in a sealed cabinet of that size.
Compared to the BMS18n862, the data there show the UM18-22 to be few dB higher around 20-30hz and a few dB lower around 60-80hz.
Your original post suggested that you need output at 20hz and below.
The UM18 has a lower Fs and is actually about 3db more efficient below 35hz than the BMS. Above 35hz it's a totally different different story however...
At 20hz, a 6 cu ft box and 500W will get you 103dB from the BMS and 106dB from the Dayton, according to winISD. At 40hz they are roughly equal, at 80hz the BMS has a 6db advantage.
The UM18 has a lower Fs and is actually about 3db more efficient below 35hz than the BMS. Above 35hz it's a totally different different story however...
At 20hz, a 6 cu ft box and 500W will get you 103dB from the BMS and 106dB from the Dayton, according to winISD. At 40hz they are roughly equal, at 80hz the BMS has a 6db advantage.
In that volume I'd look at a pair of the Peerless 15" drivers: Peerless by Tymphany STW-350F-188PR01-04 15" High Power Subwoofer
Here is the plot of my current output using the average of each channel in a 7.3.0 set up (I have manually followed a Harmon curve and only EQ the subs). The subs are three Sonus Faber Cremona which are 12” with 2 passive radiator units quite heavy - 36kg and not much output below 18HZ, I have EQd and time aligned and the bass from 30Hz up I have plenty of headroom (I use all the speakers full range and add in any bass shortfall with a 10x10 mini dsp) I have also loaded the subs shown across a 2m wide seating position as well, this was taken 12m ago and I have flattened a bit further since
It’s the recognition that a 4th sub placed in the front left corner could be easily fitted and the REW simulation supports a good response around 20Hz plus it smooths my 25 Hz null. I have managed to get the three subs to provide a very consistent response across the seating area, so hopefully I can rework the same methodology with 4 subs
I also want to use my spare BK amp “only 500W with 1000w peaks” it does have a meaty power supply and it was a notable upgrade when I bypassed the existing plate amps in the Cremonas, pic below of the difference and the BK amp in ints separate box from underneath BSBPV500
It’s the recognition that a 4th sub placed in the front left corner could be easily fitted and the REW simulation supports a good response around 20Hz plus it smooths my 25 Hz null. I have managed to get the three subs to provide a very consistent response across the seating area, so hopefully I can rework the same methodology with 4 subs
I also want to use my spare BK amp “only 500W with 1000w peaks” it does have a meaty power supply and it was a notable upgrade when I bypassed the existing plate amps in the Cremonas, pic below of the difference and the BK amp in ints separate box from underneath BSBPV500
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Looking at the Dayton vs the B&C in an approximate enclosure size measuring I have decided longer could work so using external 700x520x520 which give an internal volume of 147 litres
These are the curves looking at the two, because of efficiency the B&C and how it might look with EQ it might work better ? B&C Green 95-98db, Dayton red 86db
These are the curves looking at the two, because of efficiency the B&C and how it might look with EQ it might work better ? B&C Green 95-98db, Dayton red 86db
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Big output at 20Hz in 150L takes a lot of power. There's no cheating the laws of physics.
Every sub may be modest compared to this Norwegian "Troll-wall":
32 x 18" and 44 000W cause that the house light bulbs turns into "disco lights" when volume is turned to 11.
Norges storste bassvegg - YouTube
32 x 18" and 44 000W cause that the house light bulbs turns into "disco lights" when volume is turned to 11.
Norges storste bassvegg - YouTube
Isn’t it the other way around?
Interesting thread, I’m looking for a 18” PA sub for small box myself. I don’t necessarily need the highest SPL but I just like the sound of PA bass, tight and strong where bass guitars and drums doesn’t just sound like a fart, modern home theater subs sounds awful to me with their extreme xmax. High sensitive driver is a bonus but I understand low Fs heavy cone is probably more important to get any lowend from a small box but hopefully an 18” doesn’t need to have such wild Xmax? I’m actually thinking more of a 80l cab. Many pro subs are quite small. Not sure how they do it.
Example: Delta 18B | Wharfedale Pro - Sound Reinforcement and Live Sound Equipment
Is it this driver?
https://www.eminence.com/pdf/Delta_Pro_18A.pdf
It has a tiny magnet though.
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