I also thought that the RS225 plays a big role in the midrange, but wasn't sure. Thanks for the info.
In the meantime I've tried the speaker with various amplifiers, and they feel best with fairly powerful devices; now they run on a Cambridge Azur 851W - a dream 😀
In the meantime I've tried the speaker with various amplifiers, and they feel best with fairly powerful devices; now they run on a Cambridge Azur 851W - a dream 😀
Yes, I agree and find they work best with amps with at least 75w. Be careful with 850w amp on speaker pop etc.
I don't believe I can sell anything on this thread, but I'm offering my populated crossover boards in the Swap Shop thread.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Couple things. One is the amount of space they need. I already have a a tall set and don't have a place to give them a good setting. I could go with the smaller, but I can use the money if I sell the crossovers. I've started another hobby, sawmilling, and have a few things I need for the mill.
If I don't sell them, I'll hang on to them and build them sometime down the road. I love the idea and am very thankful for members like yourself who are willing to share your expertise.
I used a pair of RS225s I have in a different set to try out the WAWs, but I put them back. I have a pair of RS225Ps, but I don't know what I'd need to do to make them work, or if they would work and I don't know when the regular RS225s will be back in stock.
Thanks,
Mike
If I don't sell them, I'll hang on to them and build them sometime down the road. I love the idea and am very thankful for members like yourself who are willing to share your expertise.
I used a pair of RS225s I have in a different set to try out the WAWs, but I put them back. I have a pair of RS225Ps, but I don't know what I'd need to do to make them work, or if they would work and I don't know when the regular RS225s will be back in stock.
Thanks,
Mike
My sealed monitors are coming along great. Waiting on XO parts to arrive. I have ff85wk and TC9FD on hand. Help me decide which to use. While they require minimal XO change the main difference is baffle preparation to flush mount the odd shaped TC9FD. I'm very sensitive to brightness/harshness and have experienced this somewhat with the ff85wk.
I just don't want to use the TC9FD and feel like I'm giving up detail. Thanks.
I just don't want to use the TC9FD and feel like I'm giving up detail. Thanks.
TubaV,
The TC9FD bezel is not very thick - probably you can get away without flush-mounting?
Maybe X can comment because he's use the TC9FD in quite a few projects.
The TC9FD bezel is not very thick - probably you can get away without flush-mounting?
Maybe X can comment because he's use the TC9FD in quite a few projects.
You don’t have to flush mount the TC9FD. It has enough detail for me and as much 10F/8424. The FF85WK has limited power handling compared to TC9FD but probably a bit more high end. Another good choice is 3FE22-8 or 3FE25-8. The latter being quite a bit less expensive. If you can find 8ohm fiberglass cone TG9FD-8 is also great.
After about 100-120 hours of intense listening I now notice a further development of the sound. The bass is great as always, but the mids are smoother and cleaner and the treble is crisper. I think all parts are now burned in and can deliver a top performance. Yes, I adore this speaker😀
Which Dayton 8" is recommended for the is build is it the RS-225P-8 or the RS-225P-8A, Im seeing the RS-225P-8 is sold out on Partsexpress
Staying in the game 🙂
I decided against selling the xovers and I ordered a pair of RS225s. Just didn't sit right not sticking with these. 🙂
I'm not sure if I'm going to use the larger cabinets or go with the smaller ones, though.
The drivers should be here some time next week. I don't have the 10Fs, but I have the small Fostex drivers, TC9s, and PS95s. I'm not sure which to use. ANy suggestions until I get the 10Fs?
I decided against selling the xovers and I ordered a pair of RS225s. Just didn't sit right not sticking with these. 🙂
I'm not sure if I'm going to use the larger cabinets or go with the smaller ones, though.
The drivers should be here some time next week. I don't have the 10Fs, but I have the small Fostex drivers, TC9s, and PS95s. I'm not sure which to use. ANy suggestions until I get the 10Fs?
Great, Mike, you will not regret it!
@nareshseep, I wouldn't use the paper cone variants, because they don't work properly above 600-700 Hz, which however is required in this design. Just take a look at the frequency response in data sheet of the "normal" RS225 and compare it with the P-variants. XRK also wrote here, that the paper cones are not suitable.
@nareshseep, I wouldn't use the paper cone variants, because they don't work properly above 600-700 Hz, which however is required in this design. Just take a look at the frequency response in data sheet of the "normal" RS225 and compare it with the P-variants. XRK also wrote here, that the paper cones are not suitable.
mikejennens,
Good to know that you are still game about trying these out.
AFAIK they TC9 and the Fostex FF85WK will work with a few minor XO tweaks, and also there are a couple of Dayton drivers (RS-100?) that will work also.
Good to know that you are still game about trying these out.
AFAIK they TC9 and the Fostex FF85WK will work with a few minor XO tweaks, and also there are a couple of Dayton drivers (RS-100?) that will work also.
I used the PS95. No problem with it at all to my ears apart from maybe my ears/ room/placement prefer the dispersion of a tweeter, I think you'll be fine with the 95s if you have them. Maybe try them 'flat out without any resistor. Might add a bit more sparkle? If you will order 10f not sure if they aren't the same diameter as PS95 so if you are routing a baffle then this is worth bearing in mind.
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Thanks for the suggestion. That should be easy enough to try by just shorting the resistor with a jumper.
TL height
I bought my sheets of BB-3/4" ply. Before cutting I thought I would check the TL schematics and do a little calculating. I seem to add the height to 40.5" if I am correctly reading the schematic.
If builders are building to 40" height are they building from top to bottom and not worrying about the 1/2" lost as it is on the bottom. Or, am I totally out to lunch😕
Measurement from top to vent opening: 3/4" + 8" + 13" + 3/4" = 22.5"
Measurement of vent opening = 2-1/2"
Measurement from btm of vent to bottom: 3/4"+3"+6"+5"+3/4" = 15-1/2"
Total = 40-1/2"
Thanks,
MM
I bought my sheets of BB-3/4" ply. Before cutting I thought I would check the TL schematics and do a little calculating. I seem to add the height to 40.5" if I am correctly reading the schematic.
If builders are building to 40" height are they building from top to bottom and not worrying about the 1/2" lost as it is on the bottom. Or, am I totally out to lunch😕
Measurement from top to vent opening: 3/4" + 8" + 13" + 3/4" = 22.5"
Measurement of vent opening = 2-1/2"
Measurement from btm of vent to bottom: 3/4"+3"+6"+5"+3/4" = 15-1/2"
Total = 40-1/2"
Thanks,
MM