In all honesty I took a look at the list of the components you posted and the price of the few available ones here with the required specs is not competitive at all.
I'll stick to my plan of designing the PCB for whatever I can find here that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and then add a few extra holes for different mounts.
I mean, it won't be hard at all taking a different inductor and stretch the terminals a little to make it fit anyway...
I'll stick to my plan of designing the PCB for whatever I can find here that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and then add a few extra holes for different mounts.
I mean, it won't be hard at all taking a different inductor and stretch the terminals a little to make it fit anyway...
You don't know what dictatorship means except from history books.
I lived in one until 1989.
For some reason your post hit me, Julian. Enjoy freedom, there is no substitute.
A bit overkill. Used the schematic provided by the OP + your edits + some other techniques found on the net. Needs revision and edits probably.
- The dc suppressor is effective up to voltages around the forward voltage of the two bridge rectifiers, but I doubt you will have more than ~0.7volts of DC from your outlet, unless you have serious problems in your electrical system.
- Two fuses because they are never enough. Extra point of controlled failure=extra safety(?)
- MOV resistor after the dc filter at the beginning to protect from input surges.
- TSV diode at the end to protect from transient spikes in case of inductive load.
- 2 GDTs instead of one because surprisingly these are cheaper than the single one with 3 terminals, at least here
- One more common mode inductor because why not, but I haven't found much info about three stages EMI filters and I just guessed the schematic from some others. Need advice on that.
- I have considered adding a NTC resistor in series, just in case you're powering up a device with a large transformer that would cause a huge current spike. 2.5 or 5 ohms would suffice in this case.
Last edited:
Hi. That is 1 DC blocker too many for sure. Also seems a tad excessive filtering unless you have a cell phone transmitter on the roof.
About noise: yesterday I heard a Jung wall socket 230V 16A hiss. Yes without a plug or load plugged in. This was the closed IP40 type with a spring operated cover.
Could not believe my eyes when I measured it and took it apart. It had debris from a very long time ago that had started conducting in combination with moist (bath room). It measured fluctuating 3 MOhm to sometimes a few 100 kOhm from L to PE. Apparently enough current to make such noise. It was completely undermined with creepage tracks through the glass fiber reinforced plastic. Cleaning it thoroughly of course did not solve it.
After RF now also sonical mains pollution I thought 🙂
About noise: yesterday I heard a Jung wall socket 230V 16A hiss. Yes without a plug or load plugged in. This was the closed IP40 type with a spring operated cover.
Could not believe my eyes when I measured it and took it apart. It had debris from a very long time ago that had started conducting in combination with moist (bath room). It measured fluctuating 3 MOhm to sometimes a few 100 kOhm from L to PE. Apparently enough current to make such noise. It was completely undermined with creepage tracks through the glass fiber reinforced plastic. Cleaning it thoroughly of course did not solve it.
After RF now also sonical mains pollution I thought 🙂
Last edited:
PCB is mostly done. Tried to make routes as straight and direct as possible while maintaining a good clearance between the traces.
Live and neutral have a quite solid 10mm trace width, except in some narrower parts, but never go lower than 7mm.
Added a few connectors for the chassis.
Live and neutral have a quite solid 10mm trace width, except in some narrower parts, but never go lower than 7mm.
Added a few connectors for the chassis.
Hi! Please change "GND" to "PE" as it definitely is not GND. GND is at the secondary side of power supplies. Calling both GND is one of continuing mistakes in the electro world. They do not even need to be connected to each other but guess what the brain thinks when it sees "GND".
The consequences of having a narrow board is that it is easy to implement in an existing device or small casing but on the other hand it can warp/sag because of the weight of parts. Also mains voltage carrying parts/contacts are too close to the sides. Normally at least 5 mm is kept free. This also counts for distance of mains voltage carrying lead wires and PCB pads/tracks with regards to PE. I can not imagine C3 to have 7 mm clearance. As written in post 85 creepage does happen in 230V AC installations when stuff gets dusty/dirty/moist. Maybe the 10 mm PCB tracks for L and N can be a tad thinner. The "PE ring" around C3 should not be there.
If you add pads for a PCB mount IEC inlet you save on wiring in certain situations where that might come in handy. Adding the pads is free. Just choices for versatility depending on where it will be built in, screw type connectors are just fine and IMHO best choice. Even with a not enough tightened screw the ring type wire ferrule will always make contact.
The consequences of having a narrow board is that it is easy to implement in an existing device or small casing but on the other hand it can warp/sag because of the weight of parts. Also mains voltage carrying parts/contacts are too close to the sides. Normally at least 5 mm is kept free. This also counts for distance of mains voltage carrying lead wires and PCB pads/tracks with regards to PE. I can not imagine C3 to have 7 mm clearance. As written in post 85 creepage does happen in 230V AC installations when stuff gets dusty/dirty/moist. Maybe the 10 mm PCB tracks for L and N can be a tad thinner. The "PE ring" around C3 should not be there.
If you add pads for a PCB mount IEC inlet you save on wiring in certain situations where that might come in handy. Adding the pads is free. Just choices for versatility depending on where it will be built in, screw type connectors are just fine and IMHO best choice. Even with a not enough tightened screw the ring type wire ferrule will always make contact.
Last edited:
This should have better clearance. In theory the holes of the screw connectors are wide enough to fit IEC inlets but i still have to check on that.
Cheers.
The PCB size should be precise enough to fit inside a standard cast aluminum enclosure for electric guitar pedals (~10€).
I am quite sure I can mount an IEC outlet and inlet on opposite ends of the box, good suggestion.
I am quite sure I can mount an IEC outlet and inlet on opposite ends of the box, good suggestion.
Better design and with that casing excellent shielding! Good choice. Don't forget to connect PE to the casing.
Ask yourself what detachable cables at both sides will bring except 2 possible higher than desired impedances/error possibilities. Maybe going from IEC to Schuko outlets or directly cabled output via a grommet to C14 is desirable. I do it that way. Also always with illuminated power on/off switch. Off should be off.
Yesterday I saw such boxes sold here with illuminated power on/off switch and then a switch per Schuko. The 6 Schuko version for 12,99 Euro. All plastic fantastic stuff of course and no filtering but still....
Ask yourself what detachable cables at both sides will bring except 2 possible higher than desired impedances/error possibilities. Maybe going from IEC to Schuko outlets or directly cabled output via a grommet to C14 is desirable. I do it that way. Also always with illuminated power on/off switch. Off should be off.
Yesterday I saw such boxes sold here with illuminated power on/off switch and then a switch per Schuko. The 6 Schuko version for 12,99 Euro. All plastic fantastic stuff of course and no filtering but still....
Last edited:
I need a power bar distributor which stops anything from the power lines.
Last weekend my big transformer started to sing and ring as well as the unfiltered tube heaters, everything vibrating,
even the light bulbs had electrical intermittent noises in their bases down close to the electrical panel.
All my tubes amp heaters have AC and it is very bad, my tube pre has a line filter but the noise pass through.
It is a certain type at night, probably due to all the CFLs and LED the city has installed. But in the weekend on Saturday on a sunny day it is very loud and affects the whole house, I suspect neighbors with solar panels power inverters
Last weekend my big transformer started to sing and ring as well as the unfiltered tube heaters, everything vibrating,
even the light bulbs had electrical intermittent noises in their bases down close to the electrical panel.
All my tubes amp heaters have AC and it is very bad, my tube pre has a line filter but the noise pass through.
It is a certain type at night, probably due to all the CFLs and LED the city has installed. But in the weekend on Saturday on a sunny day it is very loud and affects the whole house, I suspect neighbors with solar panels power inverters