3D printing is not everywhere easy availeble or cheap. And buying a 3D printer certainly not. For many such a thing is a dealbreaker.
And the original monkey coffins (the clsssic examples) did not have waveguides, the unwaveguided tweeter sound is also a part of that sound. Waveguides hardly did exist then. It's a complication many don't want. It may sound better, but that is not necesairly the goal here, that is in the tread of Andy where a waveguide is fully logical. But not here.
And the original monkey coffins (the clsssic examples) did not have waveguides, the unwaveguided tweeter sound is also a part of that sound. Waveguides hardly did exist then. It's a complication many don't want. It may sound better, but that is not necesairly the goal here, that is in the tread of Andy where a waveguide is fully logical. But not here.
So you're espousing a simple replication of 50 yo technologies without any effort to improve on that with all the advances since the original monkey coffin speakers? Surely not, right? I mean if that's what people really want, wouldn't they just pick up used original gear like the various models mentioned early in this thread? It'd be cheaper & easier.And the original monkey coffins (the clsssic examples) did not have waveguides, the unwaveguided tweeter sound is also a part of that sound. Waveguides hardly did exist then. It's a complication many don't want. It may sound better, but that is not necesairly the goal here, that is in the tread of Andy where a waveguide is fully logical. But not here.
a WG from @augerpro can be easily priced by downloading the file on JLPCB. You will has the cost according the material. The economical shipping with them works well in less than 10 days. But I am aware custom cost has been increasing too between US and China! There are also the cheap Monacor and Visaton 5" round waveguide that works well with some drivers (see the site of Heissman acoustic). But I don't know why a well designed Loudspeaker w/o guide will sounds bad. Broad dispersion has its charm...
No, but we want to keep the format of the originals, but see how far we got in sound quality with modern drivers, modern design techniques (like simulating and measuring). Not make a modern design like many are already made with this kind of drivers. That was also why this tread diverted from the tread of Andy where he more want to do what you suggest.
At least that is what i thought was the goal. I'm not making them (I got enough on my to do list already). I'm here to help.
At least that is what i thought was the goal. I'm not making them (I got enough on my to do list already). I'm here to help.
My thinking with WG is that using one means I'm not compelled to route huge round-overs of the baffle edges (with scary bits) although these days, I'm likely to do both WG & baffle edge rounding. I hear the effects of early diffraction & prefer not to hear it.
Perhaps baffle edge rounding is enough.
A shallow WG doesn't narrow dispersion much if you're starting with a 1" or smaller dome.
Perhaps baffle edge rounding is enough.
A shallow WG doesn't narrow dispersion much if you're starting with a 1" or smaller dome.
up to the OP to ask to the group which is interrested here by building it. Can be helped by a poll as well. But people should ask the poor and cons of a waveguide in a big width front baffle trade offs nd poors. The Waveguide willl not supress all the difraction in such a baffle. Off setting the treble unit towards a side can help with a classic tweeter too, if less dispersion is wished, a ring radiator can be chosen.
Again, are you sure the measurement given is not normalized to 1m/2.83V after measurement?
Edit : okay, indeed to much expensive is the 12" RSS315.
If I end up building something and measuring, I could include an (expensive) option with the RSS315HF-8 as I already have 4 on hand.
Thank you! Parts Express carries the 5FE120 but not the 5FE125 and I don't know the FaitalPRO lineup very well. But usspeaker.com does carry the 5FE125, so it is available here in the US.Just use the 5FE125 (with demodulation ring) or 5FE105 (w/o).
Same driver but with round basket.
My thought process was that if the SB34NRX75-6 is within budget, then the Dayton RSS315 series drivers are about the same price should also be considered.Dayton has some low-budget 12" drivers (DC300?) that we wouldn't end up choosing and some good subs like the RSS315 which are out of budget for this project in the US.
Honestly I don't know what the budget is for our woofer here...
up to the OP to ask to the group which is interested here by building it....
I didn't PLAN on leading a project or building anything, rather I was sensitive to hijacking the other thread so started this one.
However, I am leaning toward building at least a prototype since I have a good measurement setup. However, I won't be buying the SB34NRX. I might be willing to buy one 830669 from Europe (Soundimports has 10+ in stock and I have ordered from them before) and have it shipped rather than wait for PE to have it in stock in May.
So my priority would be to decide on woofer(s).
I have almost all of the SB Acoustics 5" midwoofers and tweeters if those are options. I have the Peerless NE149W. And I don't mind buying $50-$70 midranges like FaitalPRO or others, if that is the direction the group goes. We can do a waveguide/no-waveguide version pretty easy once a woofer and midrange are selected.
My thought process was that if the SB34NRX75-6 is within budget, then the Dayton RSS315 series drivers are about the same price should also be considered.
Honestly I don't know what the budget is for our woofer here...
I like the idea of having two options. I just know I'm not going to buy a pair of the SB34NRX anytime soon. I am also of the same thought as Waxx - that the origination of this thread was that the other thread - which was supposed to be more budget oriented than the OSMC - was not going to result in what most people would consider a "budget" build. And that is perfectly fine. I have no desire to be the final decision maker on any aspect - but my personal opinion is $600 is the maximum to call this a "budget" build and $400 would be more appealing to people looking for a "budget" build.
Edit: Also, I mentioned that I have the RSS315. I will point out that at eur 315 they are not nearly as inexpensive in Europe.
This was A4eaudio's question & comment about budget. Not sure anyone actually answered. 🤣From another thread, the question came up...what does it MEAN to be a budget project. If your reference is a Seas diamond dome tweeter, Accuton mids and Purifi 10" drivers, then several thousand dollars is relatively budget. In that thread, the discussion was focusing on 12" woofers, so here were three options I put together based on easy to get drivers from Parts Express. (Disclaimer, Dayton Audio drivers are quite the bargain in the US, not so much in Europe.)
What does "budget" mean to YOU??
Ultra Budget: $242 [Dayton DC300-8, Dayton DS135-8, Peerless DX25TG59-04] Both of these Dayton's are on sale right now for about 18% off, with an additional 14% off these 6 drivers would be $181 through Monday]
Budget: $415 [Dayton DS315-8, Dayton RS150P, Dayton RST28F in a 3D printed waveguide] This would be $70 less with the Peerless SLS 830669 12" back in stock in May, which may be better than the DS315-8 anyways]
Performance: $608 [Peerless XXLS Nomex cone back in stock in May, Peerless NE149W, Peerless XT25BG60-04 in a 3D printed waveguide]
My personal take is CA$1000 for a pair is probably about the max budget for parts. That's ~USD700. Compares favorably with any commercial 3-way offerings* (vintage style or otherwise) that have good 12" bass drivers.
*The only one I can think of is the KLH 5 at USD1250 each -- https://klhaudio.com/model-five-pair Interestingly, Stereophile's measurements show a FR strikingly similar to the Madisound 3-way design -- https://www.stereophile.com/content/klh-model-five-loudspeaker-measurements
^"This was A4eaudio's question & comment about budget. Not sure anyone actually answered"
LOL, I've asked twice if 4 ohm woofers are okay and no one has answered. 🤣
LOL, I've asked twice if 4 ohm woofers are okay and no one has answered. 🤣
What software is this? Are the labels for F3/6/10 part of the software or did you add text boxes?SB34NRX75-6 / 70L closed, Qtc 0.69 (Blue line is Jim NF measurement)
...
I guess it's vituixcad.What software is this?
Yes, it's Vcad@shadowplay62
Can you also model the Peerless XXLS-P830845?
Closed, Qtc 0.7, 77L
All the 4Pi simulations - brown line - consider a baffle of 38x75cm.
BR 100L @ 25Hz (a cabinet of 120L would be better to reduce the hump below 100Hz for a more dampened system)
I did a baffle sim a week ago, and a 13" baffle with a centered tweeter didn't look bad at all with sharp edges.
Earlier today, I almost made a test panel for the cheap 5.25" Peerless, so I could measure it. But until there's some indication it might be an option, I'll hold off.
The Peerless tweeter I keep mentioning seems to ignore the baffle entirely. You can see that in the measurement I posted here.
Earlier today, I almost made a test panel for the cheap 5.25" Peerless, so I could measure it. But until there's some indication it might be an option, I'll hold off.
The Peerless tweeter I keep mentioning seems to ignore the baffle entirely. You can see that in the measurement I posted here.
Did you include some resistance from the x-over? I simmed it, and was hoping for a small box, and didn't look closely at anything over 60L that day.Yes, it's Vcad
Closed, Qtc 0.7, 77L
All the 4Pi simulations - brown line - consider a baffle of 38x75cm.
View attachment 1424377
BR 100L @ 25Hz (a cabinet of 120L would be better to reduce the hump below 100Hz for a more dampened system)
View attachment 1424381
If you mean the H26TG45-06, that is impossible to find in Europe. So not really good for a kit for the world. But with a mid that can be crossed arround 3kHz that could work, that is true.I did a baffle sim a week ago, and a 13" baffle with a centered tweeter didn't look bad at all with sharp edges.
Earlier today, I almost made a test panel for the cheap 5.25" Peerless, so I could measure it. But until there's some indication it might be an option, I'll hold off.
The Peerless tweeter I keep mentioning seems to ignore the baffle entirely. You can see that in the measurement I posted here.
The SB26ADC works very well without a waveguide, is not expensive neighter and can be crossed a lot lower (1300Hz official) if you want it. And mainly, it's worldwide availeble and cheap. So it's a much more logic option. It's also a extreme low distortion tweeter shows different measurments. Not that i think the Peerless is noisy, but still.
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